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Author Topic: 67 Engine + Muncie Installation  (Read 2065 times)
dans67camaro
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« on: March 11, 2007, 10:00:55 AM »

I have a 1967 matching #'s 350 stock engine, transmission and 12 bolt rear axle I've just rebuilt. In the car is a mod 4-bolt main 350/400+hp solid lifter drag engine / tranny & 4.10 rear axle (car runs low 12's). I'll be putting the vehicle back to stock. My question is can the engine and tranny be installed assembled together from the top side with a cherry picker and the hood off? The vehicle will be on floor jacks. Or should I install the engine/clutch/bell hsm. asm first and then attached the tranny from the bottom? Also, can the starter, exhaust man, carb, alt, water and fuel pumps be installed with the engine, or do I need to do those after the engines in place? Thanks....
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CNorton
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« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2007, 01:18:08 PM »

The installation of the complete unit is doable.  I've done it many times.  I suggest that you make sure you have a plug in the tailshaft of the transmission so that you don't lubricate the floor and that you have a dependable helper (or two) on hand.  It's likely that you will ding the firewall if you try to do it alone without a lot of experience.  Do not try to lift the assembly so that it's evenly balanced hanging on the chain.  The tailshaft needs to be quite a bit lower than the front of the engine as you slide it into place.  From my experience, lifting the engine from a plate bolted to the carburetor flange surface gives a good starting point for balance.  Make sure that your cherrypicker will extend high enough to get the assembly over the radiator core support when the car is elevated.  Also, I use a floor jack under the transmission to raise the rear of the assembly after the tailshaft disappears below the tunnel

Relative to accessories, I recall that the exhaust manifolds, starter and fuel pump can be in place when the engine is set into place.  The carburetor needs to be off to allow for attaching the lift-plate.  The water pump should be off to allow the assembly to slide behind the core support as it begins to level out.  I wouldn't bother to attach the alternator until the motor is in place.  You don't need any further disctractions while you're manuevering things around.

At least that's the way I've done it several dozen times.

Good luck,

c
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JohnZ
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« Reply #2 on: March 12, 2007, 03:56:29 PM »

The photo below isn't mine, but it shows use of a "tilter", with the four chains bolted to the four extreme corners of the intake, with Grade 8 bolts and hardened flat washers; this is the setup I've always used on Corvettes. I put the car on jackstands, remove the left front wheel, and bring the cherry-picker in from the side; some booms aren't long enough to reach from the front. The "tilter" makes it an easy one-person job. Put the distributor in AFTER the engine is in place.
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'69 Z/28
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rich69rs
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« Reply #3 on: March 12, 2007, 04:12:43 PM »

My install was a lot easier in that the core support and valences were not in place at the time I reinstalled my engine and transmission as a unit - front end of the car was "wide open".  However, I would definitely recommend using a "load leveler" or "tilter" in any event - a "required tool for the job" - for multiple reasons, including safety.  They are not expensive and are readily available from many sources, including Harbor Freight - about $25.  (Local store or on line.)

I would also definitely recommend not having the distributor in the engine at the time you install the engine.  Don't want to break it as you maneuver the engine and tranny into the car.  As a matter of preference, I secured the chains at the exh manifolds instead of using a carb plate.  Only problem with this setup is that you have to protect the corners of the valve covers.  In the attached pic, the engine and tranny are ready to install into my '69 RS.  Auto trans cooling lines are also installed.  Since mine went in without the core support in the car, and I did not use a carb plate, the carb, water pump and alternator have already been installed.  Only accessory that went on after the install was the distributor.  I used an old set of valve covers for the install and swapped them out with my "pretty" ones after the engine was in.  Starter, fuel pump, and stock exh. manifolds were not an issue. 

However, as CNorton suggested, with the core support, valences, etc still installed, give yourself extra room by installing the water pump and alternator after the engine is in the car.

As John indicated, use grade 8 bolts with enough flat washers to ensure that nothing will slip through the links of the chain. 
« Last Edit: March 12, 2007, 04:34:34 PM by rich69rs » Logged

Richard Thomas
1969 RS
dans67camaro
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« Reply #4 on: March 13, 2007, 08:30:34 AM »

Thanks... I do have a tilter and a cherry picker with long support legs. I kind of remember (6 years ago) doing a change with the tranny on, but I wasn't sure. I plan on removing the radiator and using the 4 corner intake method. Dan
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