3M Rust Fighter Cavity Wax Aerosol ???

[DAVEN1256]

I bought some 3M Rustfighter cavity wax in an aerosol can with the intention of using it in the bottom of my doors after having had new door skins put on.

Look at the picture below. Is this the way this stuff is suppose to come out of the can? It comes out like the foam gap filler you buy at Home Depot but suspended in a clear liquid. It does not settle down and flow. It dries just like you see it in the picture. It also comes out with tons of pressure. Too much it seems like.

I've never used a cavity wax but as I understand them, they are supposed to flow and wick into a joint. That's not going to happen with this stuff the way it is coming out of the can.

There are no appllication instructions on the can. My first question was do you shake it first? So I got on an online "chat" with 3M tech support and asked. They guy was vague. The best I could get out of him was that you can shake it if you want to. That didn't seem like much of an answer. I would think you either do or you don't. Doesn't matter though, it comes out the same way whether you shake it or not.

So I was wondering if anyone has experience with this stuff and can verify that either this is the way it supposed to come out of the can......or did I by chance, get a hold of a bad can?

Thanks.......Dave

[ko-lek-tor]

I wonder what would happen if the can was warmed up (carefully), like in a pot of water? Remember, it is a pressurized vessel.

[dale_z28]

I wonder what would happen if the can was warmed up (carefully), like in a pot of water? Remember, it is a pressurized vessel.

If you warmed it up "just right" inside the door, it might apply itself...

[DAVEN1256]

What I am still trying to figure out is........if this is they way this stuff is supposed to come out of the can or do I have a defective can.

You shouldn't have to take a brand new can of anything and do special preparation to it to make it work right.

And by the way, I did take it back to the automotive paint store where I bought it and showed the store manager how it sprays. He wasn't familiar with how it is supposed to look it and had absolutely no clue.

I had tried some SEM Rust Preventer cavity wax in an aerosol can. The SEM and 3M products couldn't be more different. The SEM stuff came out as a brown liquid that flowed and leveled out. The only issue I had with it was that it never dried past the consistency of wet grease. That's why I was giving the 3M stuff a try.

Dave

Dave

[dale_z28]

My experience with rust-preventive treatments is limited to machine parts and raw steel, but the way the SEM stayed wet is what I am familiar with. What about a ziebart-type material?

[69 Zee]

Hey Dave,  seems you were having this problem once before with another brand. 

Technical data sheet   http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pdf/3M-08892-TDS.pdf

See sheet 2 "Direction for use" and see if that helps.  Try spraying it as instructed, applying a uniform coat, 4-5 mil thick with 2 coats with an 1 hour dry time and see if that changes the way it sets up.

Hope that helps, keep us posted

[DAVEN1256]

I was having a problem with another brand but a completely different problem. 

I had tried some SEM Rust Preventer cavity wax in an aerosol can. The SEM and 3M products couldn't be more different. The SEM stuff came out as a brown liquid that flowed and leveled out. The only issue I had with it was that it never dried past the consistency of wet grease. That's why I was giving the 3M stuff a try.

I'll look a the instructions in the link you sent tomorrow and try again.

Thanks......Dave

[DAVEN1256]

I followed the 3M Rust Fighter instructions in the link provided and sprayed some out along with some of the SEM Rust Preventer

Here's the difference in the two.  Both are supposed to be cavity waxes.

I sprayed these with the cardboard standing vertical.

The 3M Rustfighter comes out like spray adhesive. It does not run or move as it is drying.

The SEM Rust Preventer comes out as a heavy liquid and will run...which is what I think you want a cavity wax do.....settle into and fill the joint.

If this is  how the 3M stuff is suppose to spray and settle out, there's no way I'm spraying that in my door hems. I'll quicker use the SEM and not worry about it not drying out enough.

[firstgenaddict]

I agree I like the SEM better, if you were spraying vertical I think the 3M might be better.
 I will say that I have a wand that goes in 3 feet long and sprays in a 360 deg fan not necessary but useful also not for aerosol use.
 

[Sauron327]

The 3M Rust Fighter non aerosol I use is not like your aerosol. It will weep out of holes after spraying. I have never used aerosols as I have little use for them. You need to understand that some aerosols do not have spraying characteristics of a gun sprayed product. Aerosols require a high solvent content to push it out of that little hole. Use the SEM if you like it better. Transtar makes it too, so does Wurth.

I think this has been addressed before. Thin epoxy and flop the door and fender around to get it into hems. The car is going to outlive you unless it is a butcher job or you drive it in the winter daily.

How many remove and repair a section of the lower fender and brace on what appears to be a rot free fender? I do it on all jobs because corrosion builds between those tight panels. I've had virtually rot free cars with that area ready to pop out from behind. Same with that little reinforcement at the leading edge of the fender wheelwell. If you have original doors that are slightly swollen at the hems, no amount of epoxy or cavity wax will be a panacea.

I have a 67 that I treat like many would not even consider after a frame off nut and bolt job. Yet after a decade and over 30K miles in rain, sometimes left outside and after seeing a hose often, it is not failing. The latter years saw the most abuse and miles. Doubtful a pampered, properly done, barely driven car will fail before you drop dead.