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Author Topic: rain drip bright molding  (Read 480 times)
ko-lek-tor
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« on: April 07, 2014, 02:20:32 PM »

Are the aftermarket accurate and good? I have my original, but they are flawed. this is for 69 specifically, but I think all three years are the same.
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Putting you First...Keeps me First. Talent on loan from God. Helping the hobbyist and exposing the fraud
1969 SS/RS 396 coupe Hugger Orange X22 712 bought in 79
1969 SS 350 coupe LeMans Blue 713 bought in 79
1969 307 4spd. coupe Daytona Yellow 711 bought in 85
cook_dw
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« Reply #1 on: April 07, 2014, 02:29:51 PM »

All 3 years are the same.  You can polish them out if you so desired.  It is a lot easier to polish them if they are on a car before it is painted.  If there are dings or scratches in them then those will need to be taken care of before polishing obviously.  No info on repos.  I have polished all my original windshield and back glass trim and plan on doing the drip rail moldings at a later date.
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
68ashgoldRS/SS
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« Reply #2 on: April 07, 2014, 04:49:52 PM »

Hi Darrell,  I'm guessing those are stainless as well? Is there a point where you can polish them to a substrate level and discolor them?  I'm haveing an issue where it appears that I'm down a little too far, and getting a copper tint.... They are factory originals....
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Ed Denney from South Jordan Utah

1968 Camaro RS/SS -Restored
1931 Ford 5 Window Coupe, Chopped  -Project
1965 Corvette Stingray -Project
1956 Dodge D100 Pickup -Project
1936 US Soldier, Dad -Best Friend
cook_dw
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« Reply #3 on: April 07, 2014, 06:14:45 PM »

Yes you can "burn" the stainless.  I have gotten several pieces extremely hot and haven't burned a piece.  What cutting compound are you using?  Stainless isn't like chrome.  I have even sanded areas after working dents out and going from 80-1200 grit then on to polishing
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
cook_dw
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« Reply #4 on: April 07, 2014, 06:22:27 PM »

Here is some good reading on polishing stainless

http://www.caswellplating.com/buffman.htm
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
Sauron327
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« Reply #5 on: April 07, 2014, 06:44:04 PM »

Hi Darrell,  I'm guessing those are stainless as well? Is there a point where you can polish them to a substrate level and discolor them?  I'm haveing an issue where it appears that I'm down a little too far, and getting a copper tint.... They are factory originals....
You may have sanded or buffed through the flash chrome.

I have a car that was shipped to me for assembly which was supplied with repro drip rail moldings from D&R. From what I recall they were not as bad as anticipated. When I pull them out again I'll double check. LH NOS molding can be purchased at GM Parts Direct.
« Last Edit: April 07, 2014, 07:27:58 PM by Sauron327 » Logged
cook_dw
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« Reply #6 on: April 07, 2014, 08:01:35 PM »

Didn't realize these were flash chromed.  If that's the case you could always have them hard chromed again.  Here are some pieces I polished this past weekend.



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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
68ashgoldRS/SS
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« Reply #7 on: April 08, 2014, 11:35:28 AM »

Ok, that would exlain it.... a little over enthusiatic on my buffing! I'm in the same boat as ko-lek-tor, with rechroming or buying a replacement...
Darrell, those look great!!! And thanks for the link!
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Ed Denney from South Jordan Utah

1968 Camaro RS/SS -Restored
1931 Ford 5 Window Coupe, Chopped  -Project
1965 Corvette Stingray -Project
1956 Dodge D100 Pickup -Project
1936 US Soldier, Dad -Best Friend
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