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Author Topic: Wiper transmission reburbish and paint prep ???  (Read 619 times)
DAVEN1256
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« on: February 26, 2014, 11:56:37 PM »



Wondering what people ususally do with these. I need to get my wiper transmission ready to go back in the car.

One of the three ball and socket joints has excessive play in it. The other two seem to be fine. How would you tighten that one back up?

How do you clean and re-lube the three ball and sockets joints without drilling out the rivets and opening them up......or should you drill out the rivets and replace them later?

The rotating posts that the wiper arms go on turn ok but there is a small amount of resistance. You can turn them easily by hand but the are not free spinning............Is that normal?.........Do these need to be re-lubed or just leave them alone?

How do you clean the whole assembly and prep for paint. I have surface rust, factory paint, and old paint job overspray on mine. I don't want to bead blast them for fear of getting media in the joints. Just do the best you can by hand?

Thanks.....Dave




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BULLITT65
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« Reply #1 on: February 27, 2014, 02:16:09 AM »

Ok, so my first question would be is it the ball or the socket that has the extra wear? My thoughts would be to replace the one piece (unless both have worn evenly) scuff the whole assembly, paint/(plate?),  lube,  install.
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1969 garnet red Z/28 46k mile unrestored X77
Looking for 3192477 (front) spiral shocks 3192851 (rear) please
Looking for an original LOF soft ray windshield
Looking for original Delco side post negative battery cable part # 6297651AV
Camarocards
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« Reply #2 on: February 27, 2014, 06:58:03 AM »

Dave,

I recently completed my wiper transmission not too long ago. It looked exactly like yours when I took it off the car. I soaked the entire assembly in Evaporust for a couple of days. After the Evaporust bath I disassembled what could be removed, zinc plated the bolts and wired wheeled the brass parts. I then masked off the rivets and those parts that should remain natural, and sprayed the linkage 60% gloss black (which is what it appeared to be after the Evaporust bath).

I'm pleased with the final result.

Bob
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Bob
'68 SS L35 01D
BULLITT65
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« Reply #3 on: February 27, 2014, 10:36:21 AM »

The finished piece looks nice, almost to nice? I assume the brass will darken up and then be fine. Did you have any loose linkage on yours?
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1969 garnet red Z/28 46k mile unrestored X77
Looking for 3192477 (front) spiral shocks 3192851 (rear) please
Looking for an original LOF soft ray windshield
Looking for original Delco side post negative battery cable part # 6297651AV
cook_dw
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« Reply #4 on: February 27, 2014, 11:28:06 AM »

The finished piece looks nice, almost to nice? I assume the brass will darken up and then be fine. Did you have any loose linkage on yours?

Is there such a thing?  Especially if someone is trying to restore their car to the best of their ability..??..   Wink

Linkage looks great.  Makes me want to redo mine before I install the cowl panel..
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
BULLITT65
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« Reply #5 on: February 27, 2014, 12:02:07 PM »

 All I am saying is if you were trying to reproduce the look of the car when it was new, I would be surprised if it shined that brightly is all. It does look like you could eat off of it though.. Grin
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1969 garnet red Z/28 46k mile unrestored X77
Looking for 3192477 (front) spiral shocks 3192851 (rear) please
Looking for an original LOF soft ray windshield
Looking for original Delco side post negative battery cable part # 6297651AV
cook_dw
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« Reply #6 on: February 27, 2014, 12:43:40 PM »

All I am saying is if you were trying to reproduce the look of the car when it was new, I would be surprised if it shined that brightly is all. It does look like you could eat off of it though.. Grin

Just giving you a hard time.. Wink Grin
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
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« Reply #7 on: February 27, 2014, 12:48:03 PM »

Yes...perhaps an overkill but brass will get that natural patina over time.

Didn't have any lose linkage with mine so I'm afraid I can't offer any advise on how to correct your problem. Hopefully others will chime in.

Bob
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Bob
'68 SS L35 01D
69Z28-RS
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« Reply #8 on: February 27, 2014, 01:31:50 PM »

The finished piece looks nice, almost to nice? I assume the brass will darken up and then be fine. Did you have any loose linkage on yours?


Darrell, don't take this as a negative response, or a criticism, but I feel the need to represent an alternative view ...  Smiley

Is there such a thing?  Especially if someone is trying to restore their car to the best of their ability..??..   Wink
Linkage looks great.  Makes me want to redo mine before I install the cowl panel..

Well, Yes, there IS such a thing as 'too nice'.. IF .. the goal is to restore to factory original condition (which is what the word 'restore' means to most of us (ie. restore to a condition it was in at a previous point in time..  typically when it rolled off the production floor, or into the dealer showroom).   

When it looks "TOO NICE", the appropriate description is 'OVER-RESTORED', which is FINE if you want your car to look as good as possible, but it's not 'restored' to factory condition in that situation.   Most shop 'restored cars' are over restored in today's environment, and probably it's driven by the customers, and judges at shows who believe 'prettier must be better'...  Smiley    There are some auto organizations which take off points for 'overrestored'.. as that approach drives owners and restorers back towards where they should be, and strives to preserve the closest possible representation of the manufacture for that period of time.
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
69 Corvette convertible, silver/black 350 hp,
60 Corvette white/red, 72 Corvette coupe (2), 
90 ZR1 red/red #246, 90 ZR1 white/gray #2466
72 El Camino, '55 Nomad, '57 Nomad, '57 B/A Sedan
DAVEN1256
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« Reply #9 on: February 28, 2014, 11:01:10 AM »

Thanks for the replies so far.

Bob, your wiper transmission looks great..........If you soak the entire assembly in Evapo-Rust, when it gets inside the rotating posts (that the wiper arms connect to), doesn't that have any affect on the bearings and lubricant or whatever is in there?

When you say you "disassembled what could be removed", is there anything you can diassemble besides the ball and socket joint (bolted together) that connects to the wiper motor?

Thanks.........Dave
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cook_dw
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« Reply #10 on: February 28, 2014, 11:57:18 AM »

The finished piece looks nice, almost to nice? I assume the brass will darken up and then be fine. Did you have any loose linkage on yours?

Darrell, don't take this as a negative response, or a criticism, but I feel the need to represent an alternative view ...  Smiley

Is there such a thing?  Especially if someone is trying to restore their car to the best of their ability..??..   Wink
Linkage looks great.  Makes me want to redo mine before I install the cowl panel..

Well, Yes, there IS such a thing as 'too nice'.. IF .. the goal is to restore to factory original condition (which is what the word 'restore' means to most of us (ie. restore to a condition it was in at a previous point in time..  typically when it rolled off the production floor, or into the dealer showroom).   

When it looks "TOO NICE", the appropriate description is 'OVER-RESTORED', which is FINE if you want your car to look as good as possible, but it's not 'restored' to factory condition in that situation.   Most shop 'restored cars' are over restored in today's environment, and probably it's driven by the customers, and judges at shows who believe 'prettier must be better'...  Smiley    There are some auto organizations which take off points for 'overrestored'.. as that approach drives owners and restorers back towards where they should be, and strives to preserve the closest possible representation of the manufacture for that period of time.


Gary it was a joke..  Put the caffeine enriched coffee down..   Grin


Back on topic: 


Have you tried to form the socket with a hammer and punch (or socket (as in ratchet and socket socket) may work better) to tighten it around the ball?  Just a thought.
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
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