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Author Topic: Correct Hood Hinge Finish  (Read 8123 times)
Mark's 68 L78 RS SS
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« on: August 27, 2006, 07:34:04 AM »

Sorry if this is a repeat.  I think I have seen this info somewhere but can't find it.  What is the correct finish for the hood hinges on a 68 396 L78 RS SS car?  There has been some input that it is supposed to be a semi gloss black and some that it is supposed to be like a silver plate.   They are about to go back on the car and I want to make sure we get them correct.

Thanks
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Mark
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« Reply #1 on: August 27, 2006, 10:11:37 AM »

Grey Phosphate...
Try this guy I know that some of the Yenko guys use his stuff. 
Vernon Owens # is 864-246-3836.
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James
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« Reply #2 on: August 27, 2006, 09:58:55 PM »

Ive used the Palmetto product (Vernon) http://www.palmetto-omnitek.com/Palmetto/techniques.htm quite a bit.  Pretty good product, and a relatively small learning curve.  I usually use it for hardware and some small parts, havent done anything the size of a hood hinge yet.  I did a hood latch, and the results were very similar side-by-side to one done by Gregori at http://www.brakeboosters.com/services.htm , who is a good alternative if you dont care to phosphate the parts yourself.

dave
« Last Edit: August 27, 2006, 10:01:31 PM by RamAirDave » Logged

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deejaygee
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« Reply #3 on: August 28, 2006, 10:19:18 AM »

Dave, I think that's a different Palmetto than the one that sells the zinc phosphate (hood hinges and latch) and manganese (bolts) plating solutions.

Contact info is:

  PALMETTO Enterprises
  2311 A Old Parker Road
  Greenville,SC 29609
  864 246 3836

The Palmetto plating solutions consist of a gallon-size jug of nasty chemical that you mix 32:1 with water, heat to 200 degrees farenheit in an aluminum or ceramic pot, then dip your freshly stripped and cleaned parts in for a few minutes. Results are well worth the effort.
« Last Edit: August 28, 2006, 10:21:01 AM by deejaygee » Logged
Mark's 68 L78 RS SS
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« Reply #4 on: August 28, 2006, 05:25:13 PM »

Guys:

Thanks for the input.  I have looked for pictures and have seen pics that look almost like a gun metal blue and pics where the hinges look lighter gray.  Which is correct?  I have a call in with Palmetto Enterprises and hope to hear back fro them tomorrow.  Are the chemicals expensive?

I may have to wait until over the winter to get the hinges right.  If I do this myself I am assuming I bead blast the hinges down to bare metal correct?

Mark
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Mark
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« Reply #5 on: August 28, 2006, 07:48:48 PM »

Dave, I think that's a different Palmetto than the one that sells the zinc phosphate (hood hinges and latch) and manganese (bolts) plating solutions.

The contact info is different, but I think Vernon just might be part of a different subdvision of Palmetto?  Doubt that there would be two, seperate Palmetto plating co.s in the Greenville SC area.  I dont really know for sure though, you might be correct.


Mark:  Yes, bead blasting is probably the best method of prep for ph plating.  The Zinc Phosphate is a lighter gray, but the coloring can differ a little in relation to how stout you mix the solution.  Not too expensive, around $20/qt which will last a while, assuming not too many large parts.

I actually use the Manganese Phosphate more.  Its the same procedure (the mixing ratio is a little stronger), but a darker color which I prefer for hardware.


dave
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« Reply #6 on: August 28, 2006, 10:27:01 PM »

If yours are worn out you can still get the gray phosphate hinges from GM, but the supply is running low. More and more are coming through painted black.
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Mark's 68 L78 RS SS
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« Reply #7 on: August 29, 2006, 09:41:01 PM »

The hinges are in good shape, I just want to get everything to as close to factory correct or original as possible.  I did talk to Vernon at Palmetto Enterprises and the process seems simple enough.  He said just sand blast the parts clean, heat the solution to 180 F and dip the parts until the solution stops bubbling, then wash two or three times with WD-40.  The solution is mixed 1:32 like the earlier post states.

Now I have to get my new bride to let me use one of her stainless steel pots to cook some parts in lol  Might as well do all of them while I am at it.  Can anyone point me toward a resource for determining what the factory correct finishes are on which parts?

Thanks
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Mark
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« Reply #8 on: August 29, 2006, 10:30:09 PM »

The process is pretty simple, but might want to do a few test runs first to get the hang of it.  I had consistency issues at first.  The tap water around here is pretty harsh, so after swiitching to distilled water, no problems.  Also keep in mind that WD40 is good for the initial wash off, but not a good protectant in the long run.  I'm using www.boeshield.com right now, but not long enough to have any long term results yet.

I would also suggest getting some of the Manganese Phosphate from them while youre at it (if youre wanting to do more than latches/hinges).  Same process, but a 20:1 (from memory) solution.

Gonna need a pretty big container for hinges.  I havent tried hinges yet for the reason that I havent hunted down a container yet.

Heres a couple hood latches, Gregori on the L, and Palmetto on the R:




dave
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Mark's 68 L78 RS SS
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« Reply #9 on: August 30, 2006, 07:55:41 PM »

Dave:

Thanks for the pics, those look great.  That gives me incentive for a winter weekend project.  I am still trying to figure out where to go for a reference for all brackets and parts to determine what the correct finish, plating, paint etc is.  I am still trying to decipher the AIM to see if the information is in there.  Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thanks

Mark
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Mark
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68 L78 RS SS M22
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« Reply #10 on: August 30, 2006, 08:01:22 PM »

This'll get you going:

http://67z28.com/finishes.htm

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Mark's 68 L78 RS SS
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« Reply #11 on: August 30, 2006, 08:23:39 PM »

Cool and thanks
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Mark
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« Reply #12 on: August 31, 2006, 05:20:34 PM »

Call Jerry MacNeish. His work looks great.  Sam
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Rich
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« Reply #13 on: September 04, 2006, 11:15:10 AM »

Os-pho (a rust remover) also works.  Removes light rust and leaves a light phosphate finish. Also, remember that the factory finishes were not as repeatible as what you commonly see on show cars.

Note that the spring itself needs to be gloss (or near gloss) black.

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« Reply #14 on: September 05, 2006, 12:37:05 AM »

Note that the spring itself needs to be gloss (or near gloss) black.

I would be interested if you have an example of this.  Myself, I've never found a trace of black paint on an original hood latch spring.


dave
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RJ_RS_SS_350
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« Reply #15 on: September 05, 2006, 09:22:33 AM »

Rich is probably referring to the hood hinge spring, not hood latch spring. Wink
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deejaygee
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« Reply #16 on: September 05, 2006, 10:56:31 AM »

Rich is probably referring to the hood hinge spring, not hood latch spring. Wink

I meant the big spring on the hood itself. Here's a pic I took a couple of days ago of an original paint car. Pic is blurry but you can see the black spring.

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Rich
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« Reply #17 on: September 08, 2006, 09:27:36 PM »

Like the blurry photo, on the hood latch springs (not hood hinge springs), I haven't yet seen a survivor car that didn't have the black painted latch spring.
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« Reply #18 on: September 09, 2006, 12:42:54 AM »

Thats interesting to know.  Ive never noticed that before, but then again, I havent really looked for it.
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« Reply #19 on: October 24, 2011, 04:19:03 PM »

Old thread, but I have seen a lot of survivors now with the black latch spring as in the above photo.  JohnZ's car might still have it and I know he has lot's of pics of his car in a lot of areas.  He might have one of those.
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68Z28
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« Reply #20 on: October 24, 2011, 07:15:56 PM »

I have had our original hinges, springs etc done (gray phosphate) 3 times since paint restoration in 2004 on out 69 Z/28. Refer to Jerry MacNeish Camaro book page 203 about finishes. We live at the beach, very wet and damp even in a warm garage with a cover on her. The hinge edges started to rust almost immediately the first go round. Did them again and used Tetsors lacquer semi-gloss spray paint to seal them. Finish looks good and does not change color or yellow over time (so far) That lasted about 4 years. I had then redone again a few months ago and HEAVILY coated them with the same clear coat and so far so good. Any moisture where you are and you better coat them or they will flash or get surface rust almost overnight it seems. I have seen several 1st gen cars with black painted hinges etc so they don't have to bother restoring them every few years.
My 2 cents
Good Luck
LM69Z28 Wink
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JohnZ
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« Reply #21 on: October 25, 2011, 11:01:41 AM »

Old thread, but I have seen a lot of survivors now with the black latch spring as in the above photo.  JohnZ's car might still have it and I know he has lot's of pics of his car in a lot of areas.  He might have one of those.

My hood latch spring is gloss black, just like the one in deejaygee's photo up above.
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'69 Z/28
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LM69Z28
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« Reply #22 on: October 25, 2011, 01:21:18 PM »

Our hood latch spring was original unrestored when we bought our car in 2003 and it was black!
LM69Z28
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Stingr69
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« Reply #23 on: October 25, 2011, 02:03:02 PM »

Cast Blast "Cast Iron" rattle can is not technically correct but looks pretty good for a driver.

-Mark.
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68camaroz28
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« Reply #24 on: October 26, 2011, 10:28:13 PM »

I have had our original hinges, springs etc done (gray phosphate) 3 times since paint restoration in 2004 on out 69 Z/28. Refer to Jerry MacNeish Camaro book page 203 about finishes. We live at the beach, very wet and damp even in a warm garage with a cover on her. The hinge edges started to rust almost immediately the first go round. Did them again and used Tetsors lacquer semi-gloss spray paint to seal them. Finish looks good and does not change color or yellow over time (so far) That lasted about 4 years. I had then redone again a few months ago and HEAVILY coated them with the same clear coat and so far so good. Any moisture where you are and you better coat them or they will flash or get surface rust almost overnight it seems. I have seen several 1st gen cars with black painted hinges etc so they don't have to bother restoring them every few years.
My 2 cents
Good Luck
LM69Z28 Wink

Not sure how this works but I started to give it a try and time will tell. When applied you cannot see it!
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Chick
68 Z/28 NOR 01B Orig motor/trans/rear
69 Z/28 NOR 07A Orig Block & GM Cross-ram/carbs
69 L34 Rest. Nova Father/Son Car
69 L78 Surv Nova Purch 4/69 31K miles
67 L89 Corv Tribute
68 Corv 427/400 Orig motor
07 Corv Z06
R 68Z build- http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182584
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« Reply #25 on: October 27, 2011, 11:38:13 AM »

What is it?  There was a thread here or over at TC where a guy said he learned from some Model A restorers that you rub axle grease on the part and then wipe it off very well and it kept his parts from rusting for 10 years or more.  I did that on my steering box and it hasn't rusted in 3.
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68Z28
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« Reply #26 on: October 27, 2011, 09:01:17 PM »

What is it?  There was a thread here or over at TC where a guy said he learned from some Model A restorers that you rub axle grease on the part and then wipe it off very well and it kept his parts from rusting for 10 years or more.  I did that on my steering box and it hasn't rusted in 3.
More info on the thread I have going on our z restoration. http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182584&page=25 Go to the bottom of this page for more info but basically it looks like a paste wax and you brush it on a heated part and according to many Chrsyler car guys it works great since you cannot see it unlike many oils and greases. Since I just used it for the first time the last couple of days we have no idea how well it works but felt it was worth a try. You can Google it to view the website also. Going to do a old casting piece I have and place it outside Smiley
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Chick
68 Z/28 NOR 01B Orig motor/trans/rear
69 Z/28 NOR 07A Orig Block & GM Cross-ram/carbs
69 L34 Rest. Nova Father/Son Car
69 L78 Surv Nova Purch 4/69 31K miles
67 L89 Corv Tribute
68 Corv 427/400 Orig motor
07 Corv Z06
R 68Z build- http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182584
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