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Author Topic: Oil Pan Removal  (Read 2015 times)
Franko
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« on: April 15, 2013, 07:29:13 PM »

I've read the previous posts on removing my leaking oil pan on my 1968 Camaro 350. I've read what it says in my Service Manual about it: removing the distributor cap, lower radiator hose, fan, engine mount bolts, starter and the steering rod at idler lever. It says you can jack the engine up under the oil pan with a block of wood and put 2 x 4s under the engine mounts.

Has anybody ever accomplished this in this manner? So the exhaust system, transmission (without removing the cross member), shifter and drive shaft will not be damaged by raising the engine 4 inches without disconnecting these items? And since I have had my power steering box rebuilt and not yet reinstalled it and the pitman arm, I was hoping that I could lower the center link enough to remove the pan.

Also the oil leaks out even if the engine hasn't run in a month in winter. Doesn't that sound like the oil pan instead of the rear main seal, which I think would only leak when the engine is running?

Thanks for your advice.
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JKZ27
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« Reply #1 on: April 16, 2013, 09:22:12 AM »

I recall doing this job on my 68 abut 4 years ago. you have to lift the engine so the oil pan will clear the pick-up tube which hangs low. The trans mount should be fine as it is designed to flex. The exhaust should be ok, you could loosen the flanges so it can pivot a little. Not sure about the clutch linkage, may have to remove bellcrank. Otherwise, I'd follow the service manual procedures. This would be a good time to replace the rear main seal while the pan is off. Hope this helps you.

John
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69 RS/SS Cortez Silver, L48 MC1
68 RS Ash/Ivy Gold 327EFI M20
79 Z28 Brown LM1 M21
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Franko
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« Reply #2 on: April 20, 2013, 12:50:38 PM »

Thanks for the good ideas, John, especially about doing the rear main seal at the same time. Does anybody else have any advice or gotchas about removing the oil pan without removing the engine?
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Everett#2390
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« Reply #3 on: April 21, 2013, 07:27:41 PM »

I have R&R the pan with the engine in the car. As said, loosen fan shroud and let hang about the fan, lower rad hose is fine, dist cap is loose, and install 2X4 in engine mounts 4 inch side . Crank timing mark to around 5 o:clock position to get the counterweights into the block. If auto, remove dust cover for additional clearnace in removing pan. Man trans is limited by bellhousing, but can be done, Remove oil filter.

Replace crank seal and clean bearing cap and block with lacquer thinner or BraKleen®, then apply a small bead of RTV, 1/16 inch diameter or smaller from the backside of seal to pan gasket. One-eighth inch diameter bead about block to hold pan gasket to block. Rubber pan end gaskets get the same 1/8 inch diameter bead both sides. Install pan and torque bolts to manual specs, Let set overnight for RTV to cure, then pour in oil.

Pans do leak either from rust pin hole or a kink in the pan. Weld or braze pan after cleaning pan of oil, lacquer thinner again.
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Franko
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« Reply #4 on: April 22, 2013, 08:01:08 PM »

Thanks Everett#2390. Does anybody know it leaving the bell crank as is will damage anything when the engine is raised. In reading prior posts I plan on using the one-piece Fel-Pro gasket and the Fel-Pro 2912 rear main seal (staggering the ends of the seal about 1/4 inch) . I assume this seal will fit a 69 350 (a Z-28 was being discussed in the post I read).
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Everett#2390
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« Reply #5 on: April 24, 2013, 11:31:31 AM »

All you have to do is loosen the nut on the bracket bolted to the frame, unhook the return spring, and pull out the ball stud from the frame bracket.
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Franko
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« Reply #6 on: April 24, 2013, 08:20:25 PM »

Thanks again Everett#2390.
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hotrod68
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« Reply #7 on: May 14, 2013, 05:01:11 AM »

Also........the crank throws have to be just right for the pan to come down clean. If you have probs getting the pan past the crossmember, try rotating the crank a few degrees at a time. If the counterweights are at the bottom they'll hit the pan and cause it to bind on the crossmember. The Fel-Pro 1-piece gasket is a Godsend. Good luck. 
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HotRod'68  1968 coupe undergoing frame-off resto/rod. 386/350/4.11s
JohnZ
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« Reply #8 on: May 14, 2013, 11:46:48 AM »

Also........the crank throws have to be just right for the pan to come down clean. If you have probs getting the pan past the crossmember, try rotating the crank a few degrees at a time. If the counterweights are at the bottom they'll hit the pan and cause it to bind on the crossmember. The Fel-Pro 1-piece gasket is a Godsend. Good luck. 

If you set the crankshaft so the timing index line on the balancer ring is at the 5 o'clock position (as viewed from the front), the front counterweight will be up out of the way, providing more clearance to the crossmember to pull the pan.
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bcmiller
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« Reply #9 on: May 17, 2013, 05:23:24 PM »

I have done oil pan removals both in and out of the car.  I don't think I will ever do another one in the car.  I know it is more work, but your chance of getting a good seal are better when the engine is on a stand.  Also this gives you a chance to check things over closely and address any other issues you may find.  But how you do it is up to you.  Good luck.
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1968 Camaro SS 396 - now 468 BBC, M21, 12 bolt.
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