Door weatherstrip

[hotrod68]

Hey guys. I'm putting new weatherstripping on the doors of my '68 and have run into a problem: The doors won't shut. I'm using Soff Seal products and they seem to be about 1" too long and too thick at the front of the door where it meets the roofrail weatherstrip. It looks as if I'll have to cut the rubber to fit and drill new holes for the plastic retaining pins. These are new aftermarket Goodmark doors which have been just a nightmare in every respect to work with. Hardly anything has lined up or been in the right place and I'm wondering if the doors may be at fault with the weatherstrip as well. Has anyone else run into this problem with either Goodmark doors or Soff Seal weatherstrip? I'd appreciate any input or advice. Thanks.

[z28rich]

check into the latex seals

[x77-69z28]

I used the latex weatherstrips on my 67 from Jim at heartbeat city. They are perfect!

[Mike S]

 Perfect timing with this thread. I was going to reach out too to CRG about this very subject and was wondering about how latex would work. I have the repo strips frmo the 80's and they are much harder rubber and I need to slam (trunk & doors) to get anything to close.
I'll try the latex now that I removed the repos during this recent restoration.

Thanks for the input.

Mike

[Sauron327]

These are new aftermarket Goodmark doors which have been just a nightmare in every respect to work with. Hardly anything has lined up or been in the right place and I'm wondering if the doors may be at fault with the weatherstrip as well. Has anyone else run into this problem with either Goodmark doors or Soff Seal weatherstrip?

I'm redoing a 67 that was delivered with all Goodmark metal and it's all junk. The shop had a fancy website, is a Goodmark distributor and they butchered the job. The doors are a joke. Besides the wstrip, your shells may be off. Check shell to pinchweld clearance. Metro trunk seals are bad too, I'm checking on another maker.

[tmodel66]

I used the Metro Super Soft latex and couldn't be more happy. They were stiff for a day or so but we backed the car out and let the sun get to them for a couple days and they're perfect now. Just enough resistance but never a slam any more.

[68camaroz28]

Doing searches will supply loads of conversations on weatherstripping and SoftSeal in many cases just DONT work. As stated its too hard and its just nothing like the original GM door w/s. Some people/shops have even trimmed it to assist with panel to panel fit up. Tedious for sure....

[MyRed67]

  I also used Metro Super Soft latex, and am very happy.  However, I have them on original doors, Pass. side Door had a couple minor repairs on the corners,  Driver side is "re-skinned" but has the original inner frame.  All holes for Weatherstrip "pegs" lined up good.

[WayneinNZ]

Third vote for Metro Super Soft Seals.
You can buy a kit which has the left and right doors, door opening and a boot seal. I would recommend dooing the doors and the door openings at the same time.
reasonable price as well.
One thing I did do was spray them with WURTH Rubber Care, it helps soften the rubber a little.
Metro do recommend using a specific sealant/adhesive to make sure they dont move once installed.
Good luck

[dutch]

Since I have also been considering a weatherstrip redo next Spring - my take from this thread is that the Softseal stuff is too bulky/hard regardless of whether your doors are or do fit as original..
What I'm hearing also is that the Metro ones are best of all, the Super Soft Latex stuff the type to strive for - true NOS being the only better choice if cost and availability is no object (which it is for me)..
My doors and bits are completely original except for having been off for repainting in 1980 and this year I noticed that I hear a lot more road noise than ever before, while even the slightest pressure will close them now - so that tells me that my 30+ year old versions are not getting it done anymore..
Is the Metro stuff as flogged by Summit (as an example) the same as what you might get right from Metro or are there differences depending where it is sourced? There seems to be quite a range of pricing from what I see for apparently identical items and/or kits depending on the retailer, and dealing with a Summit or similarly large retailer usually seems to bring a better deal to us here North or the border after customs, shipping, and brokerage costs all get factored in..
I did use a Softseal trunk seal a couple of years back and it was initially quite stiff until I sat the car out in the sun with the lid shut a few times and now closes and works great - but again, original sheetmetal and fit maybe somewhat at work here..
Are the pieces the windows seal against when rolled up, durable and OK from Metro in the latex material, or would they be preferable and longer lasting in a denser material like a Softseal product might provide, considering the abrasion and force they get subjected to?
I only wish to do this once and as hassle-free as possible, so the more info I can get to help me choose the best options the better..
Thanks - Randy     

[joesauer]

I used the Metro latex on my 68 and they worked great.  Doors and trunk metal are factory original. 

[77thor]

It took about one year after installing the weatherstipping before my doors closed properly.

[tmodel66]

Randy all my metal is original so I don't think that will come into play on the fit or function. The only "problem" I had was at the front of the window seal when rolled up. It was just on the left side but it was from being packaged wrong with a twist on the end and it would catch on the window and roll out. I had to take a paint paddle and clamp it flat for a day or two to get it straight so it would lay down flat. The right side fits perfect and good seal.

[Mike S]

What material did the factory use being the doors/trunk close normally?   
 
Mike

[Sauron327]

If you want to accelerate the compression of the door wstrips, ratchet strap the doors tighter. Obviously after removing the strikers. I'm presently doing this to Metro SS with AMD quarters and Gmark doors. The doors may end up in the scrap pile. Years ago I used Soffseal and the doors were combative upon closing but eventually they shut with the touch of a finger. Not very good looking molds however. The metro SS trunk seal has been over compressed for two weeks and still is not low enough and I trimmed the bottom off. Besides the hard material, it's design is poor. After considerable time, it did  compress on the last job and that was GM metal. But it had to be done in increments.

[Petes L48]

For the trunk, has anyone tried this supplier:
http://www.restorationspecialties.com/index.html

See item 4766 on page 43 of the catalog, sold by the foot.  I stopped by there a few days ago to buy some other resto stuff, and was going to get a sample but they had the entire spool at the Hershey meet.  I did see a roll of some other similar type weatherstrip in the shop, that one was made by some rubber company in Mogadore, OH. 

[Sauron327]

For the trunk, has anyone tried this supplier:
http://www.restorationspecialties.com/index.html

See item 4766 on page 43 of the catalog, sold by the foot.  I stopped by there a few days ago to buy some other resto stuff, and was going to get a sample but they had the entire spool at the Hershey meet.  I did see a roll of some other similar type weatherstrip in the shop, that one was made by some rubber company in Mogadore, OH. 

If that material is the correct density it might work. I'm waiting for a sample from the company below. The way it's folded over and it's design is intriguing. Metro tends to accordian because of air pocket configuration and placement.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/67-68-69-70-71-81-Camaro-or-Firebird-Trunk-Weatherstrip-Exact-Correct-profile-/271065004190?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1cbbb89e&vxp=mtr

[hotrod68]

Thanks for all the advice, guys. I've let the doors sit closed for about 2 weeks now and weatherstrips are taking a set and the doors aren't as hard to shut now--a firm push will latch them. However, I did have to drill a few different holes for the plastic retaining pins at the top, and the window on one side doesn't seat exactly right in the front slot when it's rolled up. At some point I plan to get the latex strips, but for now I can live with it. At least I don't have to SLAM the doors to get them to shut anymore. Thanks again for all the great input. You guys rock.