Messages

16

General Discussion / Re: 67 front speaker dimensions

« on: April 05, 2017, 02:16:55 AM »

The front speaker is 4" x 10". Factory speaker resistance is 10 ohms.  If using your original GM radio, make sure your replacement speaker is 10 ohms.  If using current model radios, a 4 ohm speaker will be needed.  The factory A/C cars use a smaller speaker thickness, usually resulting in a shallower depth magnet which equals less power handling capabilities.

Steve

17

Originality / Re: Compressor inspection stamp?

« on: March 31, 2017, 04:33:50 AM »

Thank so very much, John!

18

Originality / Compressor inspection stamp?

« on: February 21, 2017, 05:34:59 AM »

'Needing help in recreating the '67 A/C inspection stamp that was placed on the A6 compressors (Norwood built, 11B).  When cleaning years worth of repaints from the compressor, I uncovered a partial inspection stamp that I believe inspectors placed on the compressor when the A/C system was tested and certified.

The partial stamp is a yellow circle which is approximately 1-1/8" round, has "TEST" inside the circle, and has "CHEV" outside the circle at 6 o'clock.  I believe that the stamp was placed half on, and half off,  the compressor ID sticker.  Anyone have a photo or the actual wording inside the circle?

Thanks for your help!

Steve

19

Decoding/Numbers / 67 Dryer - Receiver?

« on: April 12, 2014, 01:10:28 AM »

Were there any date or model stampings on '67 dryer - receivers? 

I've been told that stampings on the bottom of the can are from rebuilt originals.  Does anyone know if this is true?  I've come across a '63 dryer that has stampings on the bottom, but is sworn to be original, new, and never installed.  Another knowledgeable individual has stated that he has had several new dryers through the years - all without stampings, dates, or codes.  I'm leaning towards this as being factual - no numbers, dates, or codes.

Several "old school" A/C shops that I have called don't have any knowledge on stampings., numbers, dates, or codes.   They'll rebuild an original, but have never paid any attention in regards to numbers.  Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!

20

Originality / Re: Early '67 a/c compressor decal?

« on: March 21, 2014, 12:35:58 AM »

Mike,

That's an excellent idea.  If I can't locate an orange decal by responses from this site, the muffler bracket will sure hide the seam.  Thanks!

Steve
The difference between a hobby and insanity is .0000001"

21

Originality / Re: Early '67 a/c compressor decal?

« on: March 20, 2014, 04:27:41 AM »

Mike,
Thanks for taking the time and responding, and letting me know about your orange January 17, '67 compressor decal.  Safe guard it, as replacing it (as I'm learning), may take years (and then again may never happen).

Kurt,
Talk about, duh!  In my excitement of finding a decal with an October build date and the right compressor number (no doubt a repop) , I totally forgot that the model year was from August '66 thru July '67.  Any idea on how or where to locate an ORANGE prior November '66 decal?  Thanks again.

Steve
The difference between a hobby and insanity is .0000001

22

Originality / Early '67 a/c compressor decal?

« on: March 19, 2014, 09:48:49 PM »

I've been looking for a correct Frigidaire A/C compressor decal for my '67 Camaro, built the 2nd week of November '66.  Everything I have found has been a black and silver decal with orange lettering (for the caution info at the bottom). These decals specify compressor 6551033 as per the AIM, but the code number is 041471 (April 14, 1967, day shift).  If one's Camaro was built before that, and one's looking for authenticity, this decal basically sucks.  Every article I have found states that the 67 A/C decals were orange (caution info).

Good news, maybe?  I found a Frigidaire black and silver decal with green lettered caution information.  It has the correct 6550133 model number, and a code of 102162 (October 21, 1966 night shift).  This works for my build date. 

I know early Camaro's had 1966 built parts.  I also know that 1966 Corvette compressors had green caution lettering but a different model number. I'm guessing 1966 GM compressors had the green caution information?  Does anyone have an early built true survivor that has the green lettered 1966 compressor decal on it?  Does anyone have knowledge on this small anal retentive matter?  Thanks!

Steve

The difference between a hobby and insanity is .0000001"

23

Originality / Re: 327 L30 Intake Manifold date

« on: March 12, 2014, 03:45:28 AM »

I have an 11B '66 (Norwood) convertible with casting dates of H6 intake, heads, and block.  I don't have documentation such as protect o plate, build sheet, or original invoice, but the engine is a 10/22/66 MM assembly stamping which is a L30 with powerglide. 

I also have a friend who's grandmother just left him her 1967 Impala (purchased new and built in February of '67), four door, no power, no air, L30 (327-275) with powerglide.  It has casting numbers of H-16-6 block, H-16-6 heads, and H-16-6 manifold, I know........ unbelievable!!  (for a March 1967 Impala)  The block assembly stamping is so rusted that it's non retrievable - believe me, we have TRIED.

Steve

The difference between a hobby and insanity is .0000001" 

24

Restoration / Re: under hood finish

« on: March 12, 2014, 03:15:00 AM »

Is the GM Reconditioning black paint a GM dealer only item?

Steve

The difference between a hobby and insanity is .0000001"

25

Restoration / Re: 1967 Camaro Worm Gear Clamps for A/C Lines

« on: March 12, 2014, 03:03:09 AM »

I don't want to hijack this thread as it was about worm gear clamps on todays hoses.  I'm curious if Sanden is rebuilding the A6 compressors with the double lip seal, the original two piece seal, or if they desire to market new replacement compressors?

Steve

The difference between insanity and a hobby is .0000001"

26

Restoration / Re: 1967 Camaro Worm Gear Clamps for A/C Lines

« on: March 11, 2014, 01:04:57 AM »

I completed my A/C restoration three years ago (1967 convertible).  I too, went with R12, and used the worm gear clamps with the positioning arm.  I haven't had any problems but have re- torked the clamps as per the AIM as the rubber hoses do compress.  Install the clamps with the arm at the end of the hose, and the hose installed to the stop collar.
The arm positions the clamp over the three raised ridges on the aluminum tubing.

Steve

The difference between a hobby and insanity is .0000001"