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Messages - Stingr69

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Restoration / Re: Leaf Springs When Restoring
« on: July 30, 2009, 12:31:23 PM »
Eaton makes good springs. I bought a full set for my car and they rode just a bit too high. They worked from my measurements and made a custom replacement set to drop the height to the exact ride height I wanted. They sent a UPS truck and a shipping label to return the original set they sent once I got them off. No extra charge.   8) This time they nailed it dead nuts.

The usual design they sell you is not a 100% correct spring in appearance. They did build the 100% correct spring but I think it was more expensive. It might have been a minimum quantity run as well but my memory is not real good about that. I have slept quite a few times since then. ;) My car did not need the 100% spring so it was not much of an issue to me.


Restoration / Re: How to convert from R12 to R134 on a 69 Camaro
« on: July 27, 2009, 12:17:55 PM »
I bought a case of R12 in the small cans. $250 if I remember right. You may need a HVACR Lisc # though.


General Discussion / Re: r12 freon versus replacement freeze 12
« on: July 26, 2009, 05:37:34 PM »
Use the real R-12 if your system is still functional and leak free. The refrigerant costs a bit more but there are benefits especialy of you have a nice otherwise original car.

R12 works, it requires no modifications, you can top it off if you get low, most anyone can work on it too. The majority of replacements have issues - flamable, can not be topped off - you have to remove and replace it all if you have a slow leak, not everyone has the setup to work on oddball refrigerants, etc. My advice is to keep running the genuine R12 untill you need a major service.

If the system is broken, this may be a goo time to bite the bullet and change it over to 134a.


General Discussion / Re: Repro Spiral Shocks
« on: July 23, 2009, 01:58:33 PM »
I have tried several types of shocks on my car. The KYB's were VERY stiff, especialy in the rear and were promptly removed (sold on Epay). The next set was some Bilstein HD's. Bilstein did not offer the "Sport" versions for my '69 Camaro or I would have tried them. I have REALLY enjoyed the Bilstein Sports on my C3 Vette but these "HD" shocks from Bilstein were a bit of a dissapointment on the Camaro, especially so considering the $$$ cost. They vastly improved over the KYB's but I felt there was still some room for improvement in ride available. I don't expect it to ride like a Fleetwood Bougham but it should not ride like a hard tail chopper either. Handling is important but these old cars will never handle anywhere near what a new one does. You might has well save your dental work while you drive.

The current good setup is basic cheap Monroe gas shocks and these are staying on the car. I am pleased with the ride and not too frustrated with the handling. It handles probably close to original and they are not expensive either.

Anyone want a good deal on a set of Bilstein HD's? :)


Restoration / Re: GM Mark of Excellence Decal
« on: July 20, 2009, 02:16:08 PM »
You should visit the AIM to see which decals were included and where they go. If it isn't shown there, it wasn't supposed to be installed there.

LOTS of improperly restored cars out there that show the GM decals wrong. I also own a Camaro reference book with lots of improperly restored car pictures in it so even there you need to use the AIM to get it 100% right.


I tried the 30-30 both with cast iron manifold and with 1-3/4" headers. The rest of the exhaust was factory style chambered exhaust so it was not the best. Not real thrilled with the results either way.

The car runs a LOT better for me now that I switched to the Crane F-278. The opening and closing points are almost identical to the LT-1 cam BUT the lift is higher so it is like an LT-1 grind with a little bit more. VERY nice improvement in the low end and it still pulls hard at higher RPM. I doubt it leaves much on the table. I have no plans to swap it again any time soon. I guess Crane is no longer in the business but maybe you could have one ground with the same specs?

I think John H. runs the LT-1 cam in his 302. Maybe he will have something to add.


General Discussion / Re: Info for rebuilding a 1969 Muncie M21
« on: July 16, 2009, 06:55:04 PM »

There is a good link above for parts and info. I own the book and it is pretty good. Paul also sells a video that is supposed to be a great reference.

The gear stack can be pressed off. Some people will drop the mainshaft on a piece of plywood using inertia to dislodge the gears but that seems a bit too crude for my taste.

I have never reskined a tranny case but Jerry has done a set of valve covers for me. Reskinning looks great but you can't do it yourself. For a tranny I would probably just use simple green and a scrub brush.

You might have a magnet in the bottom of your case. It would be there to catch steel chips from gear teeth etc.

Hope this helps,


Originality / Re: Help with 302 MO block repair
« on: July 13, 2009, 08:11:20 PM »
Get a different block. This one you have is not original to your car so there isn't any sensible reason to take expensive drastic measures to save it. Nobody really cares unless it is the block it was born with.


General Discussion / Re: what if
« on: July 10, 2009, 11:36:42 AM »
We frame-offed a 307 car 1.5-2 years ago.  Back to factory specs aside from a PDB conversion that was done prior (would prefer an OE setup) and a set of Cragars (owner's preference).  Flat hood, no stripes, no spoilers.

From a strictly financial stanpoint, and whether or not you'll get your money back out of it when it comes time to sell, might not be the best choice.  That wasn't the issue with the one we did, it carries heavy sentimental value.

But I dig the car.  One, Azure is beautiful.  Secondly, it's very unique.

Did I see that car at Toad Suck Daze? I swear I  have seen it before. The brake booster and 307 was the tip off for me. You don't see restored 307's too often. The car looks even better in person than it does here and it looks great here. I don't remember the Cragars but they may have been on there.

Great Job - Pretty car. :)


Decoding/Numbers / Re: Early Production 1969
« on: July 06, 2009, 05:53:34 PM »
It has been messed with. VIN rivets are not OE.
I saw that but did not comment. The hidden VIN derivative stamps migt not match the VIN tag. If the tags were swapped, you have to ask the question "why"? It wasn't a HP car in the first place so there must be another reason. If the tag and the hidden stamps do match the owner may have planned to change the rusty dash panel before giving up on the project.


General Discussion / Re: what if
« on: July 06, 2009, 12:33:56 PM »
Restoring that car is a labor of love not a sound financial investment. You do it because you want to spend your money on it as a hobby. It will cost you more than it will sell for.


Maintenance / Re: M20 poping out of gear?
« on: July 03, 2009, 07:33:20 AM »
You can try adjusting the shifter but I would be looking for a worn 3-4 slider (part of the synchronizer assembly). The tiny clutch teeth on the perimeter of the gear fit inside the slider grooves and will get worn open after many miles. This can cause the tranny to pop out of gear when you get on and off the gas. It might be something else in the front bearing or input gear/mainshaft rollers but either way it is time to overhaul the tranny and replace the worn parts.


General Discussion / Re: 1969 camaro 3927184 intake
« on: June 28, 2009, 01:41:35 PM »
Based on the date it would probably be service replacement manifold. It would apply to a variety of applications.

Fill tubes can be added at any time. The '69 Z/28 manifold had a soft plug where the fill tube would have been installed but they never used the hole for anything.


Restoration / Re: 1969 Gas Tank
« on: June 27, 2009, 11:16:36 AM »
the GM tanks will probably be pretty well beat up if you can find one. They were shipped/stocked loose without any box or packaging for all those years. They probably cost a bunch too. I went repro and they look and fit great. The functional quality of the repro is excellent. I can not say either way if the repro is 100% correct or not but I really like it.


Maintenance / Re: Timing in the distributor
« on: June 26, 2009, 02:29:03 PM »
This is usualy a semantic discussion whe  ever it comes up. The best answer includes all the ignition advance information or else somebody will get confused every time. ::)

If you include initial advance plus all the centrifugal plus all the vacuum advance it should usualy add up to around 52 degrees for our old school wedge head SBC's.  ;D This would be at a high rpm cruise situation. Like driving down the highway and not under any additional load.

More advance than that is typicaly too much, and less than that may leave efficency (power) on the table.

If you want to address wide open throttle ignition advance, you do not count the vacuum advance in that calculation. Vacuum advance does not function with your foot to the floor so it does not add anything to the equation. The rule of thumb for that sum of initial plus all the centrifugal is about 36 degrees. That is the number to shoot for.

This "36 degrees" is the field you play in when you are trying to pin down the curve for high preformance, improve the idle, and have a good transition from idle to part throttle . The 2 components of this "36 degrees" are initial setting plus all of the available centrifugal advance. If your car likes it when you give it a higher initial setting, then you can increase the inital setting BUT you would want to decrese the available centrfugal advance available in the distributor centrifugal advance menchaniaism. The goal is to keep the sum of your initial plus all the available centrifugal advance equal to about 36 degrees. One goes up, the other needs to come down. You either hurt power or hurt the engine with more or less than 36.

If you follow the math you will see that the vacuum advance mechanisim is probably best if it provides about 16 degrees of advance at cruise. It just ends up that way. 36 + 16 = 52   :)

Typicaly you may find your car likes maybe 12 degrees initial advance and a centrifugal with about 24 degrees available in it. That works as a baseline for a performance ignition curve for many applications. You may need less initial and more centrifugal but the sum should remain close to 36. Bigger cams may enjoy even more initial advance. You would have to play with it to get it perfect.

Hope this helps somebody.


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