Topics

1

Decoding/Numbers / Real DZ engine & VIN stampings..

« on: February 18, 2013, 06:01:09 AM »

Sorry about the quality of the pictures. These are from an aquaintance who is considering this car and is asking me about it's authenticity..
The car can be found here.. http://cars.oodle.com/detail/used-1969-chevrolet-camaro-for-sale/3308423637-cortlandt-manor-ny/
The VIN is said to be 124379N627673. The ...618 block apparently has a March 21 1969 casting date.
I don't yet know the build date and haven't seen the X77 tag yet, but this VIN should make the tag a 1st or 2nd week of April, right?

The engine number is very difficult to read, but the 3 appears to be slightly out of alignment.


The VIN number at the oil pad also looks to not only be out of alignment but the digits appear skewed.


Am I right to be quite suspicious of these stampings and therefore the car?

2

General Discussion / Dragging Rear Brakes. Pressure Reg or Metering Valve?

« on: December 22, 2012, 03:10:23 AM »

Hey guys, I am having the problem of dragging rear drum brakes that get progessively worse in stop go traffic. The associated symptom is that the brake pedal does not fully return. Lifting it with my foot often releases the dragging rear brakes.
After have them recently lock on and having no choice but to drive the short distance home, naturally they killed themselves with heat and I rebuilt them with new everything except 3000 mile old wheel cylinders which I checked and found they both moved freely in their bores.
I have also found that they drag heavily after they are warmed up and parking the car for around 10 mins allows them to release, so now I'm suspicious of heat somehow..
I even welded the backing plates' rubbing blocks and sanded them back to eliminate the grooves worn in them over time. I know the rear drum assemblies themselves are good. It would be an enormous coincidence for both rears to develop the same problem at exactly the same time.
This issue seems to have been present in the system since the car's recent resto debut, and since then I have...

Made sure their is ~1/16" clearance between the booster's pushrod and the master's piston,
Bled the entire system,
Replaced the EIS replacement master with the correct oe type (repro of the 5468165) from HBC. (Bench bled, yes.)
Installed a vacuum pump and tank that maintains ~20in/hg vacuum, (as the roller managed only ~8")
Swapped the brake pressure regulator valve with another new one.. This is the valve that is mounted on the subframe below the driver's seat.

The system also has a metering valve which was rebuilt and seems to work.
Do either of these two valves maintain a small amount of residual pressure in the line for the use with drums or is that the master's job? I know front disc / rear drums require it and the factory did it somehow.

Because most of the likely causes I thought have been replaced or eliminated with new parts, I'm wondering if anyone has had problems with these valves maintaining pressure in the rear line causing the rear brakes not to release fully.

The other component I am suspicious of is the 8" dual diaphram booster. It and the pedal mechanism have been checked for binding but they move freely.

Help!
It's driving me mental..

3

Originality / Brake line size..

« on: August 15, 2012, 09:39:21 AM »

Hey.. I'm just double checking the size of two brake lines.
They are on the front system with power discs..
First is the line that runs from the master cylinder (front reservior) to the metering valve..
..and then from the metering valve to the distribution block/brake switch.

I know that the lines from the distribution block to each front caliper is 3/16", but because these two lines that I'm referring to feed both front calipers, did the factory make these in 1/4" just like they made a 1/4" line to the rear axle, before it also down-sizes to 3/16" at the rear axle distribution block?

From all the pics I can find on-line, these two do appear to be 3/16", which kind of surprises me. 
If the colors of the flare nuts are anything to go by (are they?), then yes, these two lines would be 3/16"..
Thanks.

MBM Reproduction assy.


OE Appearing..

4

General Discussion / Was This Ever a Recall?

« on: April 03, 2012, 11:42:14 AM »

I am wondering if the pointed bolts that fasten the latch to the radiator support were ever recalled or at least amended on the assembly line with bolts that were non-pointed and perhaps a tad shorter.
I ask because this is one of the dumbest things I have seen. All correct bolts and assembly as per the FAIM.


Not only did it cost me months of hair pulling trying to find why my charging system failed to operate (it grounded the field wire) it could have easily grounded the 10R wire instead, causing a meltdown or fire.

5

Decoding/Numbers / "ML" Engine Stamp..

« on: February 17, 2012, 08:11:48 AM »

There is more to this that I am unable to elaborate on yet, but have a look at these pictures.
The car is currently up for sale as a "matching numbers".
Can we crack 10 faults?







It appears that some effort went into the stamping, but zero effort went into choosing the "right numbers". 

6

Originality / 1/4 Window "Air Conditioned" Decal Type, Location, Applied?

« on: October 23, 2011, 01:29:49 AM »

Hey guys, there are 3 types of "Air Conditioned" decals that are for sale by the usual suppliers.
Apparently, they were applied to some of the years of 1st gen Camaros' 1/4 windows and not others.

Here are the 3 types of GM A/C decals that I have.

The top I am told is a 68 & later..
the middle is somewhere up to 1967..
..and the bottom is a non-original decal that was never used.

Both sides? Driver's only? Used at all?
Can someone shine some light on what is correct please.

7

Originality / Side Roofrail Weatherstrip Molding Finish

« on: October 03, 2011, 06:26:26 AM »

Hey guys, What is the correct finish/lustre of the stainless steel roofrail weatherstrip moldings please?

It seems that the repros advertise a "highly polished" finish, yet I thought they were a "brushed" finish like what you would get if you rubbed them with, say an 800 grit paper. My GMs have the brushed fininsh, but after 40 years, who knows if it's just what someone had done to them to hide scratches.
I'm talking about the outboard sides only.  



Thank you.

8

Originality / 396 Chrome Valve Covers...

« on: June 10, 2011, 06:56:03 AM »

Hi guys, just wondering what the general quality was like on the OE 396 chrome valve covers..

Did they show all the dimples from there the drippers were spot-welded underneath?


Did they show huge ripples in the corners of the gasket ledge?


Was the copper plating revealed where the chrome plate was missing in some spots?


Was the chrome not polished in some areas?


Was the overall quality of the chrome lousy?


These are $500 a pair, USA made reproductions..
My mate has the much cheaper Asian ones, and they look a heap better than this for a fraction of the price.
Naturally, I was expecting exceptionally high quality pieces of art for what I just spent.
Are they at least accurate in quality and apperance to the original GM ones?
Did I get ripped off?

9

Restoration / Rocker Panel Detail Question

« on: May 07, 2011, 12:45:12 PM »

I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this, but it's probably best I ask you guys anyway.
The car is in the shop and about to receive paint. My panel guy asked me a question regarding the front rocker panels. There are gaps between the folds where he expected sealer to be applied. I told him no, that's normal and it's to allow air to pass through and keep them dry, and to note the rubber flaps on the rear ends that allow water out.
Maybe I'm right or wrong about the air flow, but am I correct in saying that these are to be left exactly as they are and no sealer applied?

10

Restoration / Side Glass Weatherstrip Channel Fasteners.

« on: March 13, 2011, 03:07:31 AM »

Hello, can someone please show me the correct side glass weatherstrip channel fasteners please.
And/or AMK part number would be good too thanks.

(That retain these to the body.. http://www.heartbeatcity.com/store/product/19452/Camaro-Roof-rail-channel-kit--6-piece--68-69/)

Thinking something like.. http://www.amkproducts.com/bulk2.asp?code=7250&title=Tapping+Screws+%2D+Wafer+Head

11

Originality / Trunk Lid Bolts..

« on: February 14, 2011, 03:14:22 AM »

Question!
Was the trunk lid painted before or after fitting to the body?
..or more specifically..
Do the trunk lid's mounting bolts have body color on them?
 

12

Restoration / 1969 Accurate Quarter Louver Location/s.

« on: February 01, 2011, 07:41:35 AM »

I am hoping someone can please post image/s of their factory fitted 69 quarter louver/s please.
I have the templates and they are inaccurate from where I believe the louvers are to be positioned. (ie: it tend to position the louver over the panel's indentation and not right next to it as presumed)

Some bonehead has definitely drilled the mounting holes in the wrong locations on both my quarters. 

13

Restoration / Front Suspension Special Tools

« on: January 29, 2011, 04:33:49 AM »

On the last page of the Front Suspension chapter in the Chevrolet Chassis Service manual (chapter 3), there is a figure that shows most of the special tools required to remove and replace the ball joints and bushes on the upper and lower control arms.

Does any one know if these tools have ever been remanufatured?
..or was anyone lucky enough to grab a now-obsolete set that I would assume every GM service/dealer across the country had in their store?

I am considering making a set, but first I would like to know if they have already been reproduced, which might save me the effort.

14

Originality / 1969 Fuel Door Bolts..

« on: January 18, 2011, 02:51:24 AM »

Does anyone have a pic and/or detail of the correct bolts that retain the fuel door on a 1969 please.

UPC 14-B2 shows GM 9419002. This corresponds to AMK's B-10130 (now discontinued) which is just a plain 1/4-20 x 5/8, 7/16AF hex bolt.
Firstly, I would have expected a hex-flange or a hex-washer, but the main reason I think this bolt wrong, is because the female threads in my body are 5/16-18.

Could it be that mine were once stripped and oversized and that the 1/4 bolt is correct, or did AMK get it wrong?

Thanks.  

15

Originality / Tune-Up Decal Position

« on: January 03, 2011, 01:08:08 AM »

In the 69 FAIM, UPC 0-B1, it clearly shows the position of the tune-up label..
(View A) Decal's left edge @ 3.50" to the left of the vehicle centerline, on the radiator support. Easy, but here's the question.

What about A/C cars that have the rubber seal across the top of the radiator support? Was this tune-up label then relocated to the fan shroud or was is still placed underneath the seal?
C60 (C60-B3 in particular) makes no note of an alternate location for the decal, and it appears that the seal's retaining clips would interfer with it's placement as well. The law/regulations of the day mandated it to be fitted to all cars and be visable.. So where did it go? 

The other question would be the coolant decal. It's been noted on here in another thread that this was never installed at the factory at all. (There is no mention of it in the FAIM either.)
So, was it ever a dealer install or just another decal dreamt up by the vendors like the "Caution Fan" decal in order to make another sale?