69 z28 rods

[69er]

Jerry, so do the 69 z 302 rebuilds you do get converted to pressed pins
from floating pins?

And what do you think about that notch in the rod cap?
Any truth to it?
Maybe you can look at a set of connecting rods.

69er

[69er]

Jerry, so do the 69 z 302 rebuilds you do get converted to pressed pins
from floating pins?

And what do you think about that notch in the rod cap?
Any truth to it?
Maybe you can look at a set of connecting rods.

69er

[sam]

Don't really even need the pink rods either. I believe it takes some machine shop work to make those pink rods compatible for pressed in pins. Maybe Jerry can help here.

[RonM]

My "68" L30 shortblock is sitting in my garage soon to go to Jerry's, so I took a look and pulled one of the rod caps off. What I found was all of the rods have the "0" cast on the bottom of the rod cap, the rod that I pulled the cap off has the notch in the cap and the notch in the rod and it looks like the number 207 is cast on the rod by the rod cap. Hope this helps, RonM.

[69er]

Does your L30 have small or large diameter journals?

69er

[RonM]

It has the large diameter journals, RonM.

[Jerry@CHP]

I have not idea about what notch you are talking about??  Only thing on the end cap is a machined boss area that is used to machine or grind down when you balance the engine.

And basically, all of the large journal rods are the same.  Once you shot peen, mag and install good ARP rod bolts, you have a pink rod.  One of my race engines does not have pink rods and it has several hundred runs on it. 

JM

[69er]

Jerry I tried to draw an arrow to show where this notch is. The gentleman
from tennesse has indicated that pink rods from the  302's were unique in
that the rod cap had this notch (relief) opposite the bearing lock groove.

The arrow is pointing at the notch (relief) in the rod cap.

Maybe you can look at some of your connecting rods at your shop and
see if his comments are correct or not concerning the notch.

69er

[Jerry@CHP]

That notch is intermittent on all connecting rods.  Even some of the small journal rods have it.  Makes no difference to the functionality of the rod at all. 

JM 

[KurtS]

Just get a set of the new GM powered metal rods. As strong or stronger than any of the old style rods and they are new.

[1968RSZ28]

Kurt -

What is the GM part number on these rods?  Thanks in advance.

Paul

[Jerry@CHP]

Kurt,

Just a special note on the powdered rods.  They are not all they're cracked up to be.  Not good at all for racing applications or aggressive street use.  There have been many rod failures in the Stock Eliminator ranks with the late model Firebirds and Camaros that run these rods.  Many have switched to the older style rods having them shot peened with good rod bolts.  These engines are not even twisted that hard, about 6000rpm.  Ask any professional engine builder, they will tell you the same thing.  NG.  Better off getting a set of 3/8" rods and building them, and it will be much cheaper. 

Jerry

[1968RSZ28]

Thanks Jerry!

Paul

[KurtS]

Thanks! Hang out with the engine crowd and you hear what works.

I hadn't heard any negative on them and I know some PM rods can be very tough, obviously not true for these rods!

You also stated something else I very much agree with. Take a good set of rods and prep them properly and run them.
Seems like a good alternative to spending the big $$ on NOS pink rods.

[Jerry@CHP]

I was on Camaro travel today and had a chance to make a few phone calls while at the airport. 

In so many words, the PM rods are garbage.  This is what I was told by two very well respected engine builders.  Bub Whitiker from Burtonsville machine was one of them.  Bub builds some of the best stocker and NHRA engines in the country, and is very well respected by many throughout the country.  He installed the PM rods in one engine and the rod exited the oil pan and destroyed the engine.  He'll never use them again.  This has happened to many others running the late model LT1s at the track. 

My other machine shop that I use for my restoration engine machine work throws them in the dumpster.  I am not making this up.  This is exactly what he told me.  That's all they are good for according to him.

Bottom one is this, buy a set of 3/8" rods that are shot peened, magged with ARP rod bolts and you're ready to go.  Costs for a set of rods like this runs $250-300.  You can't beat that.  I can even get them done if you wish.  That's what we do here at CHP.   

Also think about this, NHRA's Stock Eliminator class is one of the best test beds for much of what we do today in the hobby.  For years, I've had stock 3/8' rods in my 302 race car.  The onboard Racepac data logger computer does not lie about rpms.  Two of my engines are abused to as high as 8600 rpm.  No other engines take this asbuse unless it's a pro stock or modified eliminator engine.  They rev highrer but remember they have light-weight aluminum rods.

Hope I've cleared this up.

Jerry