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67 with wheel hop

Started by Brent396, May 01, 2018, 12:52:21 PM

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Brent396

Hey guys first post here. Just picked up a 67 SS/RS originally 350/PG car now has a 396 built to around 350hp mild Comp cam and a Muncie M20. I believe it is the original 10bolt open diff. 3.08 (feels like it didn't check yet). Mono leaf and non-staggered shocks.

It wheel hops, from rear passenger side, something wild during low speed acceleration (75% throttle ish) The end goal would be do a 12 bolt posi swap but while I search for one and get the fun money to blow on it would cal-tracs help cure the hop and make a noticeable difference during acceleration?

I am not looking to restore it to be original by any means looking for a very fun driver that I can put 5-10k miles on during the nice weather.

Thanks!


cook_dw

Simply put.  YES...


Caltracs are hands down the best traction additive for any leaf spring car.  BUT if you want a cheaper alternative then just a normal set of traction bars will do the trick.  I have/had Cal tracs on cars and they work.

janobyte

Do they allow the suspension to work? Have a set of low profiles I ordered from Jegs. Diff literally got picked up this morning. Powder coated, moser axles, richmond street strip 4:10, moser yoke. Hanging thursday. Also picked up a pair of new springs from bob h. Should be quite a difference from the 88's, ladder bar and air shocks. Looking for a nice cruiser. Also KYBs  four corners. Without the stickers they look somewhat factory...from a distance. Gray anyway.
68 Z/28  born with: 302, drive line, etc..

Brent396

#3
From what I was seeing cal tracs shouldn't hurt your streetablility too much. Should make the ride a bit stiffer.

Hopefully they will eliminate wheel hop as well as remain the same level of street manners.

My only question would be is it worth it to swap to a 68 style 12 bolt with multiplates and staggered shocks? Or will a mono leaf non staggered with cal tracs do the job just as well (or better)

bcmiller

#4
Caltracs are the best for strip use. That doesn't mean you can't run them on the street. For your current situation, a set of traction bars would help.

Down the road you can run a staggered shock 12 bolt if you don't care about originality.

"Corrected typos"
Bryon / 1968 Camaro SS 396 coupe - now old school 468 big block
1967 Camaro RS/SS 396 coupe L35/M40 - project
Looking for 68 Camaro with body # NOR 181016

ZLP955

Quote from: Brent396 on May 02, 2018, 07:56:49 AM
My only question would be is it worth it to swap to a 68 style 12 bolt with multiplates and staggered shocks?
You would have to modify your '67 trunk floor shock tower areas to the '68-'69 style to get staggered shocks to the ideal angles and lengths.
Tim in Australia.
1969 04A Van Nuys Z/28. Cortez Silver, Dark Blue interior, VE3, Z21, Z23, D55/U17, D80, flat hood.
Sold at Clippinger Chevrolet in Covina, CA.
AHRA Formula Stock at Lions Dragstrip, NHRA E/MP at Pomona Raceway

KurtS

If it was easy to do, they would have converted to staggered shocks mid-67.....
Kurt S
CRG

bcmiller

Nobody said it was easy. :)

To do it right, the shocks need to be inside the frame rails. There are shock relocation kits that can be purchased - or you can make your own. Search for 67 Camaro shock relocation kit if interested and want to learn more.

Bryon / 1968 Camaro SS 396 coupe - now old school 468 big block
1967 Camaro RS/SS 396 coupe L35/M40 - project
Looking for 68 Camaro with body # NOR 181016

Brent396

Good link for traction bars?