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 a shudder or chattering on pull away as the clutch is engaging is almost always caused by the clutch itself. If the clutch is the problem resurfacing the flywheel and installing a new clutch is the solution. Clutch chatter is often worse when pulling away in reverse. A stock "OEM" type clutch is what I would recommend. Aftermarket performance clutches have a much higher tendency to chatter but may be necessary if the engine is highly modified. Engine tune up and mount problems usually will show up at other times as well as when the clutch is engaging. Rough idle, under load at low RPM, engine acceleration while standing are examples. A new clutch will chatter if it gets engine oil, transmission lube or grease used during installation on the disc. A new pilot bushing is a "must have" when replacing the clutch. These are my opinions based on experience and I hope they are a help.

On cars with an automatic transmission when checking for an unusual noise. The flex plate [flywheel] should be checked as a possible source. Remove the flywheel bottom cover and look up at the flex plate with a good light. Look for red rust leaking out of possible cracks. Sometimes cracks cannot be detected till the flex plate is removed. Noise from this part may only occur only when hot or only when cold. The noise can sound like a knock, a snap, a click, a clunk, or a rattle. It is the go to area to check when you have an unusual noise.

Loose flywheel to torque convertor bolts usually make an irregular knock at or just above idle especially when the engine idle is rough. Most of the serious engine problems have a regular beat to the knock. Loose or cracked pistons usually knock when engine is cold and idling. Wrist pin knock is most often heard with engine hot and idling. Connecting rod knock can be best heard when the engine is accelerated and the RPM goes over its peak. Main bearing knock can be heard when driving and under load, sounding like a heavy rumble. Valve train noise at the rocker arms is more of a tapping noise. Rocker arms hitting the valve covers is usually a lighter tapping noise. Yes there are many other sources for engine noises. These are some of the most common heard knocks when the fan belt is removed.

My question is about the transmission cross member. In the early 1970's while converting a couple of 1967 camaros from Muncie 4 speed to TH350 transmissions there were clearance problems between the large black vacuum modulators and the cross member. On 1969 cars with the TH350 transmission, and 4 speed cars, the crossmember has a dimple to clear the modulator. Replacement and reproduction crossmembers all have the dimple. My question is when was the dimple added to the cross member during production. The reason those cars were converted to automatic transmission was so a spouse could drive the car.

The information that Camaro had test cars in 1968 with the TH350 transmission is interesting. Working on these cars when they were current, parts for the TH350 transmission were often listed as 1968 and newer. I do not recall ever working on a 68 with a TH350 transmission. The early TH350 used a large black anaerobic vacuum modulator. The transmission cross member had to have a large dimple to clear the modulator. Is there any information on when the dimpled crossmember was first used?

Nice car!   Wishing you a safe test drive and good luck with your car.

I am only trying to help. On street driven cars the lowest RPM stall that will enable the driver to spin the rear wheels is the most desirable. Higher stall may spin the tires more,will reduce horsepower between the engine and the rear wheels and lower fuel efficiency under cruising conditions. On some cars the stall has to be modified to enable the car to idle in gear. A reminder as to what stall speed is. It is the maximum RPM that can be obtained from the engine when the transmission is in gear and the rear wheels are locked.  Reasons for changing the stall on a race car are different and have a lot to do with the type of racing.

I have just read your recent post on replacing seals to stop dripping fluid from your 350 transmission. The number one source of dripping fluid when a car with a 350 transmission is parked for a period of time is the front pump "O" ring. The next most common leak sources are the selector seal, speedo seal and "O" ring. The filler tube seal is also a common cause of leaks. The pan gasket is often blamed for the leak but is not usually the cause. I think you may be disappointed in your choice of torque convertors. A stall RPM of around 3000 in a first generation Camaro will make normal driving feel mushy on acceleration. That feeling is worst on initial pull away. 3000 stall works well at full throttle like in a drag race. The lowest stall that enables you to spin the wheels on pull away is the most efficient for the car, engine combination. A stall speed of around 2500 RPM usually works well in a first generation Camaro when the car is street driven.  Just my opinion 

The method I am describing is a quick method to check timing mark. It is not used as an exact check. Point gap is .019" with new points and is .016" when rubbing block on the points is worn in. Dwell is the number of degrees the points are closed before spark occurs for each cylinder. Dwell is checked with a Dwell Angle Meter and dwell should be 30 degrees.

Something else to check. Chev harmonic balancer outer rings have a habit of slipping making the timing mark position incorrect.  The line on the balancer can be checked for correct position several ways. Bring #1 cylinder piston to top dead center, balancer line should be at 0 on the timing tab. My preferred method is to remove the valve cover on #1 cylinder and rotate the engine watching the rocker arms on #1, when exhaust valve is closing and intake valve is starting to open timing line on balancer should be at 0 on the timing tab.

One of the first things I would check is the brake light switch on the distribution block. Check the terminal on the switch with a test light or ohm meter. If it checks going to ground that means the valve inside has stroked and is cutting off fluid to either 2 front or 2 rear wheels.

To bleed the power steering on your Camaro. Fill the reservoir to correct level. Raise the front wheels off the ground. Start the engine and raise the engine RPM to 1500. Turn the steering left and right going stop to stop several times. Stop the engine and reset the fluid level. If there are bubbles or foam in the fluid wait till they dissipate. Repeat at least three times or till there are no more bubbles in the fluid. If you still have little or no power steering with the wheels on the ground and engine idle at 800 RPM you likely have a faulty pump. I hope this info will help.

If the car has an automatic transmission there is a good chance that it is transmission fluid coming up the cable. On the 350 and 400 transmissions you would need a new seal in the speedo adaptor and be sure there is not a groove worn in the speedo driven gear where the seal rides. On a powergide be sure the speedo gear adaptor has a seal, some do not have a seal. If it is a manual transmission it is less likely to be the speedo adaptor seal but still possible.

I am not sure of the exact amount the engine has to be raised.  The 4" [3.5"] side of the wood is placed between the upper mount to engine bolt and the subframe. That should give the clearance needed to remove the engine oil pan. If the wood is placed at a different location the 2" [1.5'] may support the engine high enough to remove the pan. I am describing how I have done this repair.

After reading my post I have realized that I should have added, remove the engine oil pan. The replacement of the rear main seal is covered in post #1  Good luck