Messages

Thanks guys for your input. It all sounds logical to me.  This guy told me the big gain on these "plenums" is the larger cowl ducting diameter going to the Holley carb, verses the tapered snorkel on the ZL-2 set-up.  More cool air, more power they say.  Keep the comments coming.  I'm really trying to get a better understanding of these two so different systems.  Thanks again.....

Hello everyone.  Hope everybody had a nice Christmas.  Question to anyone who has knowledge on the rare "cowl plenum" air cleaner set-up.  Is it work the cost and time to convert to "cowl plenum" system?  I've been told this system brings in more cooler air to carb verses the popular cowl induction set-up.  Would appreciate anyones thought or experience with this type of air delivery to a 396 big block 69 Camaro.  Looking to squeeze every bit of horsepower from this engine.  Thanks

Thank you much!!!  This should get me connected with someone.  Merry X-mas to you!!!   Don

Hello Everyone!  I have a question.  I came across a company who makes re-production Cowl Plenum air cleaners.  Company name is: Pure Plenum Performance in southern California.  Is there any one here that has purchased one of these??  Do They still exist?  I would like to purchase one of these, because they look very cool.  Anyone who has any info on this company, please give me a shout.  Thanks!
Don

Don, not sure due to never seeing one from that company. There was a company making a decent duct repro but not sure if that is the company. Do a search here as there have been many pics posted of originals so you could do some review yourself. I also have pics of mine in my build thread.

Thanks for your input.   Don

Check out team chevelle web sight. They seem to very slow shipping product. But seems to be good product. Also check on company called NKR more expensive but seem to be a real good product! Bought a fiberglass version from a company called T/A Performance years ago years ago was cheaper but nice product.

Don,

I sent you a PM regarding the guy that made the one pictured above. That one's for the 409 cars but apparently he makes different types, and yes...he's very busy at these so hope the lead helps you out.

Thank You for the info.  Having a hard time contacting them from what info is out there.  Any additional info on these "cowl plenum" air cleaners, would be helpful.    Don

Hello Everyone!  I have a question.  I came across a company who makes re-production Cowl Plenum air cleaners.  Company name is: Pure Plenum Performance in southern California.  Is there any one here that has purchased one of these??  Do They still exist?  I would like to purchase one of these, because they look very cool.  Anyone who has any info on this company, please give me a shout.  Thanks!
Don

Hi Guys!  Have a problem with my "tach" on my 69 Camaro big block.  Doesen't go past 800 RPM.    Anyone have any ideas on to what might have caused this guage to go south on me.  Any advice will be helpful.  Thanks for listening..........Don

Yes, to my knowledge.  I'll ask my car guy for sure.  Is there anything else that could be creating this noise??  Thanks for your advise.  Appreciate it.

Hi everyone!!!  I just re-built my M-22 trans and is coupled with a newer Center Force Dual Friction clutch.  Put it all back together, and it making this "rubbing" or "chatter", squeaky noises.  When driving, it appears to stop for a moment.  Then it starts again.  When I take it out of gear and coast, it is still making noise.  Where do I look??  Does tranny have to be pulled again??  If anyone out there has had similar problem, feel free to chime in and advise the best remedy for this.  Hope to hear from somebody.  Thanks all......

Thanks guys for all the valuable info on my clutch issue.  Anybody else that has some tips or past experience, feel free to chime in and voice your opinion.  Again, thanks everyone for your rapid response.

Mike: "Make sure the throw-out bearing is adjusted right as well as pedal travel."
What I was thinking exactly. If there is no free play in the linkage, the disc is is still touching the cover or flywheel. Several things that I encountered switching from diaphram to borg&beck and Long style is that the ball height of the pivot fork and the thickness of the T.O. Bearing can be changed to achieve the correct geometry. Lot of factors to consider as well as what oil is being used, hopefully not synthetic.

Fresh new oil (90W) gear lube was put in tranny.

M22 gears are not straight cut.  Less of an angle than M20/M21, but not straight cut.

Check the easy stuff first.  In other words, the shifter.  If that doesn't solve the problem, then start looking at the clutch/throw out bearing/bellhousing alignment

Byron, Thanks for the info.....

The shifter linkage adjustment is frequently mentioned, but seldom the cause.  Worth a check.
The clutch is adjusted properly with 1" of free play measured with a tape measure at the pedal pad against light finger pressure.  Make sure there is no lost motion in the clutch linkage. If you still get grinding with the right clutch adjustment, the clutch is not fully releasing.  That causes the gears to continue to rotate and clash going into reverse. Try going into a forward gear first to stop the rotation and then try to go into reverse. Might help, but not solve the problem.

If the installer hung the weight of the transmission on the disk while trying to install the transmission, you could have bent the disk. disk can't release fully and it grinds going into reverse.

Usually this is the cause - pressure plate can be warped and cause this grinding symptom. Defective pressure plate or heat related damage from clutch linkage adjustment being too tight. Tight clutch adjustment allows clutch slippage, which causes heat, which then warps the pressure plate, and the disk can't release anymore - you get grinding.

Replace clutch with a stock replacement LUK brand and be done with it.

Stinger...I've never heard of a "LUK" replacement brand clutch...

Hello everyone!!  I have a question for you Camaro Gurus.  I own a 1969 Camaro SS/RS with a 396/375 engine.  Just totally rebuilt tranny (M-22)  Newer clutch assembly also.  Centerforce dual friction clutch set-up.   Problem I have is that when car is shifted into reverse, I get a little grinding on gears.  When car is cold, this doesn't happen.  Seems to be more noticeable when car is at running temp.  We adjusted the free-play out of clutch and it still tends to grind now and then.  When I put 4-speed in first before going into reverse, this seems to help.  But still, its not right.  Any clutch experts out there, any info you can shed on this issue would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks for listening.......

HI EVERYONE!!!  Just want to say to, that I own a 1969 Camaro SS, build date 02-D, N611808...........