Messages

I'm running 15" Cragar SS with 7" on the front & 8" on rear on my 68"  Tires are 215/65's.  Car is stock height.  4" backspacing on fronts, not sure about rears...it's either 4 or 4 1/2.  Back has plenty of clearance.  Fronts would rub while cornering if I tried to lower front end by over 1/2 in.  Front brakes are SSBC single caliper discs.  Back are factory drums.

Lots of posts on this subject...suggest a detailed search.  Some posts describe how to make your own staples out of 16 or 18 gauge steel, etc.  When installing mine, I used a small dab of contact cement to hold the rubber shields in place before I installed the staples.  Made my own staples to match factory ones.  Used factory holes as template, & drilled with 1/16 bit through hole + rubber to make staple installation easier.

I used Metro...doors work great.

Ditto on the Joe Gibbs "Driven Logo" motor oil.  My car (350 crate) does not like synthetics, but has run great on Joe Gibb's stuff for several years.  Get seal leaks with synthetic.

Soooo...if you raced at Fremont, how about at Half Moon Bay drag strip/airport.  remember Garlits, Tommy Ivo, etc.

Miller.

Not sure where you are located.  Try Sherms Plating in Sacramento, California (shermsplating.com).  They are one of the top shops in Calif. & can do what you are looking for.

Danny, one of the best 67-69 Camaro suppliers is located near you, in San Bruno, Ca.  Talk to Steve or Mike at Steves Camaro Parts (they have a web site also).  Steve is an expert, not just for parts, but also anything else to do with Gen 1's. 

Re: hood & hood springs.  The SS hood is heavier then the regular hood...thus the need for SS hood springs.  If you are not sure it's correct, try opening the hood part way (in several different positions).  If the springs are incorrect the hood usually has trouble staying in place in the partially opened positions. 

Would be fun to build a 6 cyl 1st Gen, and real tempting to add headers, dual carbs, etc.   Don't think bumper guards were an option in '68?

Since you live near Marin......there's a mechanic (Steve) who runs Northgate Automotive in San Rafael.  He works on many classics, including lots of Camaros.  May be worth it to talk to him.

KERR.....agree with others that you would be better off finding a body shell with minimal rust & work from that to restore your car.  MY opinion (based on building 8 cars) is that the labor hours will be far in excess of what's being quoted to you (by the body shop guy).  You need someone that can fit body panels perfectly, get the gaps correct, get the edges rounded properly, etc.  If you locate a used body or clunker with minimal rust, take an expert with you to look it over for hidden problems.  Out in Calif.  some body shops or custom car builders will go with you, for a fee, and give you a true picture of what you are up against.

I would keep these with the car show cleaning supplies......to use on the idiots that keep touching my car, or who wear those big a** belt buckles.

Are you going to do panel repairs, welding, panel/etc replacement yourself?  If not the labor costs may get you.  Have you considered a complete body shell replacement for 13-14K?

Good info.   Anyone know where you can purchase these? ......or are most of you making these from scratch.