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This cable is not difficult to make (see my earlier post).  Mine may not pass judging, but it definitely protects the dash/glove box from being hit by the passenger seat.  I used 1/8 inch diam. stranded cable for the center section as I'm not sure exactly what the factory used.  Think that's the only deviation from original.  Anyone know for sure what color the insulation was.  See many photos with grey.

Stop cable for passenger seat. 
1968 custom interior-seat emblem backing plates.
1968 non RS grill that fits.
1968 custom interior walnut grain center bezel (that does not use ill fitting contact paper).

What's your manufacturing capability going to be?  Cost big bucks to get the tooling & quality right.

On my 68 each side marker had a gasket on the outside, between the chrome housing and the fender.  If you are replacing, watch out for some of the repros...the cutouts are not punched accurately.  Made mine from scratch using an old one for a template.

Any pointers on the best way to replace the body sill moulding on a 68 non RS.  Don't want to damage the paint.  Do you just remove the 2 end screws and just pry the moulding off the retainer?  Does the new moulding just snap onto the retainer & the screws go in?  If it snaps in, top or bottom first?

Danzo,

When I made a new cable (about 2 years ago),  got the end connectors (Cable lugs) fron a local electronics parts supplier (in the SF Bay Area).  You may be able to get them on line or from a local auto parts store.  Mine are heavy duty, not the cheapie thin gauge aluminum you may see at Radio Shack.  I used ones that were intended for engine bay connections.  I crimped and soldered the connections, then filed off any excess solder.   As to the insulation, I used the canned stuff (can't remember the brand) that's used to dip you pliers, etc. in to put insluation on the plier handles.  Sprayed the finished product black to match my seats.

Spent close to a year looking for a supplier, found none.  Made one myself, using a damaged one as a model.   If it helps......overall length is 7 in., end connectors are 1 3/8 long with 3/4 OD, and 7/16 ID hole.  Cable is 1/8 in diam. uninsulated.  Grey insulation extends 1 in. past end of connectors (center 2 1/4 of cable is uninsulated).  These dimensions were off the damaged cable on my '68.

Had a similar problem on my 68.  Even though everything looked ok, turned out to be a worn center shaft on the lower nylon roller.  Not a difficult repair job if you take your time.  Took out rear seat, removed quarter trim panels & watershields, etc.  Degreased mechanisms, replaced all rollers, regreased, adjusted, etc.   Have you replaced the quarter trim panels or weatherstripping recently?  Sometimes the aftermarket stuff does not fit correctly, & causes binding.   Anyway......degreasing & relubricating the mechanisms can't hurt.

Looking for suggestions on the best way to restore front & rear window mouldings (hopefully without taking them off the car).  Mine are in good shape, but real dull & discolored.

Read most of the old posts regarding front spoilers.  Did the 68' front spoiler help with engine cooling (by forcing more air towards the radiator/engine), or primarily just aid with down force?

I took John Z's suggestion.....threw away the staples, and used 16 gauge steel (not stainless).  Much easier than using the staples.  Used a pin vise with 1/16" drill bit to pre drill the holes, using the inner fender holes as a template.  Drilled one set of holes in the center first, wired the first connection, then worked towards the sides drilling one set of holes at a time. More posts under Restoration (July 22, 2011 , A arm dust shields).

Thanks Ed

Are 1968 horns and attached brackets identical for standard and RS....just mounted in different locations? 

I'm installing new a arm dust shields (from Montco manufact.).  Looking for any suggestions or tricks to make installing the staples easier.  The replacement shields don't have holes for staples prepunched. 

If you don't plan to keep the engine bay stock, then I suggest a 100 AMP Powermaster unit.  Mine puts out 60 amps at idle, and 100 amps at 1500 engine rpm.  You can buy a single wire or multi wire unit.  The extra amps come in handy if you have aftermarket stuff (electric fans, more powerful sound system, electric fuel pump, etc).  My unit looks like an original GM 10 type case.  Check their web site.

Think you are making it too complicated.  When mine needed replacing, I reached under & behind the instrument cluster, & just twisted the lamp socket until it disengaged.  Pulled it out, stuck a new bulb in the socket, an reinstalled (by twisting).