Messages

Last Spring I did a post, looking for suggestions on how to pump fuel into a '68 without spilling any.  Live in Calif. (Bay Area) where we have those nasty pump nozzels that are great for the environment, but make it real difficult to get a tight seal at the fuel tank neck.  I've tried several after market devices (clamps, u shaped slip-ons).  Tried sticking my finger against the nozzle rubber, etc.  Nothing seems to work.  Currently, putting my 68 year old knees on the ground, press the fuel nozzel tight as I can against the filler opening, and hope for no leakage (no leakage jokes please).  Usually back off every 2/3 gallons to let air out of the tank.  Still get some fuel spill untill I get the nozzel position and seal just right. Any suggestions?

My vote is Metro.  Used them on my trunk, & worked great...didn't have to slam the lid or wait for hot weather before the seal seated properly.

Probably will attend, but not enter my '68.  What sort of help/participation are you looking at?

Ditto on the loctite.  Did you try 0000 steel wool with some wax, followed by a drop of loctite on the ball.   I adjusted the mirror to the position I wanted & then did the loctite....needs a drop maybe twice a year.

As Ed mentioned in the Team Camaro posts...be carefull if you decide to move the rod to a different slot.  It's under a great deal of tension, and can really bust you up.  I would recommend against vice grips/channel locks.  I used a long pipe, with a diameter only slightly larger than the tension rod itself. 

Watch out for the rear brake lines. If yours are running along the axle ok, should not be a problem.  have seen a few where the line was not affixed properly & the trailer strap did damage.

Where in Northern Calif?  May be interested in using it in an early 50's chevy.

Sauron327...thanks.    Agree lacquer is not the way to go.  Years ago I would shoot lacquer, spend the next few weekends with polishing compound, and end up with a pretty good paint job.  Think I'll go with the computer match in a base/clear, do a sample, and go from there.  I don't have experience with the water borne stuff (California), so it's time for the body shop.

Thanks for the information...very helpfull.  Think I'll ask the shop to first do a computer match (gave them my gas cap) & also buy a quart of the PPG 43795& test spray an old hood I have.  Boy, the good paints sure are expensive.  I keep telling my wife it's a hobby, so it's ok to go nuts sometimes.

Kurt, some time ago you posted a web site that had cross references/matches of Camaro colors to current PPG colors.  Having trouble locating it now.  Can you help.  Trying to match my 68 exterior Z British Green to something that meets al of todays EPA etc. standards.

Thanks,
Joe

Thanks.  Yes, know the tank originally was not painted....trying to simulate that look without stripping/sanding it down to bare metal.   Saw an Eastwood product called Tank Tone Metalic Coating.  Has anyone tried it, or found another product that comes close to the original factory metal look?

My fuel tank is currently black.  Would like to paint it to look factory original.  Any suggestions on what paint gives the best match?  How about for the straps?

Old grills are brittle.  Tried to repair mine (68 non RS) using various products (Bondo and Minwax wood filler...not plastic wood... seemed to work as well as anything).  Ended up replacing the grill as it was too wavy.  Went through 3 repro grills before finding one with mounting holes drilled in correct locations.

My beat-up original cable (before I built a new one) had gray vinyl where center section meets the connectors, and a black center.  Metal ends were unpainted.  This was off a 68 LA build, Jan 1968.

Any updates on a source for pass. seat teather cable?  I sprayed my home made one black to match the seats......but wondered what the factory original cable color was.