Messages

Thanks for the info.  I'll try to get a good photo when I can and post it.  The engine is installed in the car and the pad is painted over. 

In every picture I've seen of the codes stamped on the plate in front of the passenger side head on the block it shows the nine character code first followed by the seven character engine production code (reading from left to right).  On my engine the seven character code comes first followed by just the 6 digits from the VIN, or I haven't been able to see the 1,9, and then a N or L.  Is this possible, a mistake on the assembly line, or is my engine probably a restamp that was done incorrectly?  My car is a Los Angeles car built the 3rd week in Jan., 1969.  Thanks guys for all your helpful knowledge.   

Thanks for the info, Kurt.  Is there any way to tell externally whether my trans is a M20, M21, or M22?   

I've been the owner of a 1969 Z/28 RS for 12 years now but only recently began checking the numbers and coding in great detail.  I have been able to decode my VIN, trim tag, protect-o-plate, chassis broadcast sheet, engine stamping, and rear end stamping.  They all point to the car being a real Z with the RS option, original engine, and original rearend.  I'm sure the tranny is not original though as I could find no number on it that matched the one on the POP. 

Here are the numbers I was able to get of the passenger side of the trans:

3857584 GM
3885, then either a O, C, or G, followed by 10
3858403
P0207

Thanks guys for your help.  I enjoy this website, read it almost daily, and have learned a lot about Camaros from the experts on here. 

Thanks again for the info you do remember.  Unfortunately the original owner does not remember the name of the next owner who drag raced the car. 

Thanks for the info.  It would be nice to imagine that the car you remember is my current car.  Do you remember how it was painted?  Was it the factory Fathom Green with the white rally stripes, looking like a normal street driven 1969 Z/28?  Or did it have sponsorship lettering, non-factory paint, etc.? 

That I'm not sure about.  I don't have any pics of the car as it was when drag raced.  I currently own the car now.  The original owner, who got rid of it in 1972, told me that the next owner after him drag raced it.  I'm just trying to find out any previous history that I can.  I do know it doesn't have it's original factory rally wheels now. 

Did anyone here grow up in or live in Southern California, the greater Los Angeles area, in the 1970's?  If you were into drag racing as a participant or spectator do you remember a 1969 Z/28, Fathom Green with white stripes, RS option, flat hood, no spoilers being drag raced from around 1972 on?  Thank you.

My 69 Camaro built the third week in Jan.  has the kick panel with the removable vent covers.  Hope this helps. 

I caught a typo.  The interior is 711, not 712; it is a standard black interior.  Sorry.

I was able to check my '69's interior over this weekend.  Although I am not the original owner I am almost positive that the interior is all original due to the age it is showing, and I have verified that the engine, trans, and rear end are all original.  It has the Z/28 option and Rally Sport also.  The steering wheel is definitely a plastic "smooth" one; I could find no trace of "pebbling" anywhere on it.  The build date is 01C.  The interior is 712 black standard.  It has a console with the wood grain and also wood grain on the lower left part of the dash where the light and wiper switches are and where the radio control dials are.  The steering wheel has wood grain with a rs emblem in chrome.  It has no wood grain where the ashtray and glove box doors are.  It does have a grab handle above the dash and chrome trim on the accellerator, brake, and clutch pedals.  Hope this info helps. 

Paul,

     Thanks for the link.  The article certainly explains the procedure in great detail.

Vince

I know the answer to this question might seem easy to some, but I don't know the answer.  I've read that the solid lifters on the 302 need to be adjusted every so often.  How does one know when they need adjusting?  Is it the valve lash that is actually adjusted or are there other adjustments needed to be made also?  I've read that this adjustment has to be made with the engine running and the valve covers of course off, is this correct?  Who would one trust to make these adjustments where they knew what they were doing?  I only drive my Z/28 about 600 miles a year.  I've owned it for 12 years and have never had any adjustments made to the valves, lifters, etc. 
Thank you for any help and advice.   

I can only remember reading in more than one place that the Baldwin-Motion Performance Phase III Camaros with one of their Baldwin-Motion drivers were guaranteed to run sub 12's at at least 120 mph.  I don't know if this was with slicks, open headers, etc.  Rumor has it that Baldwin-Motion never had to refund any purchaser their money.   

Thanks for the info and suggestion.