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Messages - melav8r

#16
Originality / Re: Booster check valves
March 05, 2021, 12:40:44 PM
Quote from: Pacecarjeff on December 13, 2018, 03:18:19 PM
"...I have 20 or so 9204s and 3 or 4 8515s hidden somewhere around the shop."

Jeff, would you happen to have a 9820 booster?
#17
Maintenance / Re: Running Hot?
March 05, 2021, 11:28:04 AM
Quote from: z28z11 on August 06, 2014, 09:49:03 PM
De-vane the pump - the rotor spins, but doesn't pump air, obviously. Block the vacuum tube for the divertor valve.

You can use roofing nails (galvanized) in the extension tubes - seals off the extension tubes, flat surface to seal on. Drop them in, tighten the tube fitting and you're all set.

My opinion - others ?

Regards -



Hi z28z11,

Old thread but I just devaned the smog pump on a '67 327 Malibu and now moving on to the smog tubes. At this point I'd rather not remove the exhaust manifolds so I'm interested in using galvanized nails to seal the tubes off.
I just want to confirm I drop the pointed end of the the roofing nail into the extension tube in the exhaust manifold so when I reattach the smog tube fitting it's riding against the top of the nail head?
What size roofing nails do I use?
Should I apply any hi-temp RTV to the top of the nail head before reinstalling the smog tube fitting?

Thanks,
Mel
#18
Maintenance / Re: 69 Door Window Regulator Repair
August 12, 2018, 05:24:14 PM
Went to the LA Pomona swap meet today and picked up a window regulator from a late 60's early 70's GM car for $10, drilled out the rivets that hold the cup and the top of the spring does has a small bend in it, also the shaft and pinion drive gear assembly are identical.
Problem solved.
#19
Maintenance / 69 Door Window Regulator Repair
August 11, 2018, 03:14:42 PM
Drivers door window on my 69 cranked down normally but was binding heavily on the way up. Per the Fisher Body Service Manual I removed the 2 lower sash channel cam stud nuts, isolating the window from the window regulator  and the window went up and down the track easily but the regulator was still difficult to crank up so I knew I had a bad regulator.

Removed the window regulator and after removing the high tension flat steel coil/spring drilled out the 3 rivets that hold the cup containing the splined shaft and drive gear, cleaned and inspected all the parts inside the cup and everything looks ok but I'm not sure about the stainless spring that goes inside the cup. One end has a small loop that goes towards the bottom of the cup but the top end has a jagged end like maybe the tip of the spring broke off.

Is there supposed to be a bend or another hook on the top end of it? I didn't find any broken fragment on disassembly either.
I've never tore into one of these so not sure what that spring should look like.
I found a couple images online of a regulator spring for different applications and they show a bend at the top end of the spring.


#20
Originality / Re: Booster check valves
July 19, 2018, 02:20:45 PM
Quote from: KurtS on November 19, 2014, 09:48:12 PM
I recall also seeing another design. I'll have to look.
#3 is from the 70's, IIRC.

Did you ever find a picture of the other design?
#21
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor..block stamp
July 09, 2018, 06:10:31 PM
was there a car in those pictures?!!  :P
#22
1969 - Orphans / DZ Block V1121DZ?
May 06, 2014, 06:19:34 PM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251523571552?item=251523571552&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr

Looking at what remains of the vin stamp it's either 19N555219 or 19N556219, both indicate a Dec of '68 Norwood built Z, 551863-569987.

Block date code is K148 which is Nov 14, '68 so date stamp on block could appropriately be V1121DZ, Nov 21.
#23
Originality / Re: Brake hoses
July 29, 2011, 10:27:49 AM
Thanks Gents,
so the ends were single crimped on the originals, what about the markings?
#25
If its a '010 block I would assume more than likely cast early in the run, April or May of '69.
#26
Thanks!
#27
thanks Kurt,

looking at '68 CBC's it appears the trim block actually refers to the color of the hard metal interior items, i.e., dash face, top of doors, outer edges of the rear package tray, etc...
however, I've come across a couple '69 CBC's one with an "M" for a 713 car and one with a "P" which I think may have been a Ivory/Black or Ivory Houndstooth car, in either case, both use black trim so I'd of thought they'd of used an "A".
unless the Houndstooth interiors used unique codes, so go figure...

thx,
Mel
#28
Kurt,
....was the same code used for standard and custom interiors, i.e.," A" for 711 and 712, "V" for 721 and 722 etc...
I found a picture in my files of a CBC for a 59/59 car with trim code "W", is that midnight green and does it apply to 723 and 725?
thanks.
#29
thanks Kurt, what is 723 dark green?
#30
Jerry, what are the differences in the 3 pans?