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OK.  Thanks.  But that thread is over 2 years old.  Has anyone figured out any more since then?

Inspection mark is usually on the top of the transmission.

The small c definitely does not stand for Chevrolet since I have them on Pontiac and an Olds transmissions.

The initials mentioned on the side of the case in that old thread were probably scratched into the mold
by the person doing the casting.  Probably that persons initials.  I have one with MH on it.

OK, I know the codes for M20, M21, M22 (A, B, C) were not supposed to start until around late October 1968, at least on Chevy cars. But could Pontiac and Olds have started sooner?

I have a Muncie that I think is from an early 1968 Firebird.  The date code is P8B07c with a partial VIN of 28L100919.  I found pictures of two other transmissions with a similar small "c" stamp after the date code.  All stampings look very simillar.  I wonder if someone is trying to fool people that these are M22s or what is going on?  These are all from different parts of the US.  The trans I have was in an IMCA modified stock car, converted to a 2 speed with M20 gears in it.  So it was not fooling anyone there. I have gears to put it back to being a 4 speed M20.  I have never seen any of these small "c" marks on a Chevy transmission.  Does anybody have any ideas?

I have attached a picture.  This is from Muncie #2.  I have pictures of the two others but can't post now due to size limits.  I can send them to anyone interested that would like to comment.

Muncie 1 - the trans I have - date code P8B07c with a partial VIN of 28L100919
Muncie 2 - an Olds 442 trans? - date code P8C06c with partial VIN of 38Z117242
Muncie 3 - a Pontiac trans (GTO ?) - date code is P8A19c with partial VIN of 28P244597

Any help you can provide to explain this will be appreciated.

quelm,

Did you respond to the email from Kurt?

It is sad, but yes - if money is involved people try to fake stamps all the time.

For a rare car like you might have, I woud trace things back to the original dealership to be sure.

If there is a will, there is a way.  I think the block can be repaired.  I know a place in Iowa that can probably fix it.  They fix 427 blocks
once in a while.

But yes, I guess it would be important to see if the original owner is looking for the block and that would be documentation for them.

It is important to know the VIN. 

wagonman,

What is the date code of the transmission in question?  Date code should be on the passenger side, near where the main case and tailhousing bolt together.   VIN will most likely be on the top of the transmission, near where the main case and tailhousing bolt together.

While it is in the car, it will be difficult to read the VIN on the transmission.  You can try a small inspection mirror with an extendable handle but even that doesn't work sometimes. 

Take pictures before you do anything. 

Ask if they can deck the block but leave the stamped pad intact.  They might be able to "stop" the decking process before removing the numbers. 
If they don't already know let them know it is a rare block.  They might be willing to work with you.

Or at least deck it the LEAST amount possible to leave a weak stamp.  But if that does not work and it's gone, you are out of luck.

I would strongly recommed that you DO NOT RESTAMP IT. 

Is there any chance you can check with the dealership that sold the car originally to see if they have any records of it?

Are you trying to buy the car?  Is it still in the family?

I have my doubts too, but I am very interested and would like to know more. 

Check the date code on the block and heads.  Does the partial VIN on the block match the VIN of the car?

Lane,

Date code is always 4 numbers.  So 0 1 1 5 is January 15.
BS is for for 3.31 posi

Also see this link.

http://www.camaros.org/drivetrain.shtml#RearAxleNumbers

EDB30174 is a 4 series carrier for  3.90:1 & up gears.  I don't know what the 260 or 280 means.  Is there anything else on the ring gear like 41 10 which would be for 4.10 gears

OK, thanks.  I thought there was a gasket that went between the louver and the hood, but maybe that is just on the "oil cooler" style or maybe I am just wrong altogether.   Thanks.

Are the gaskets black, gray, or what color?  Tamraz says they have them for 8.95 each plus shipping.  Funny that the Goodmark ones did not have the gaskets and did not mention that they were needed.  There was some of the foam on one side of the bezel but on the ones we have I think that was just to go between the louver and the mesh.  I don't think they were on the outside part of the louver. 

Just thought I would pass this along.  Also before I do that I have one question.  Is there supposed to be a gasket that goes between the "stack" type ouver and the hood, and if so what is it made and who makes them?  Sorry, one BIG question with multiple parts.

I have a 68 and my father does too.  He ordered a new Goodmark SS hood and the quality is excellent.  Also ordered the Goodmark "stack" type louvers.  They look excellent.  Here is the problem.  The louvers are flat but it looked like the hood has a slight convex curve to it (center part where the louvers go is a bit higher than the front or back).  They don't fit the greatest, and no gaskets were included.  They came with the louver, grill and backing plate.  So should they fit better if we can find the gasket that goes between the hood and the louver?

I am asking this because he wants his to fit better and I might just do the same thing on my SS.  Mine has a cowl hood now.  His had a flat hood.

Thank You.

Sold this time.   $2952.00

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190285618798

Sorry, I noticed how old the ebay listing date was and just figured that the current listing was new.  I did not look at the item number.

Back on ebay.

Buy it now for 2500.

Item number: 380064693082