Messages

Steve-
Thanks for the info.  I'll give it a shot.
-Jeff

Well, I looked up my paperwork from the rebuild, and it was done back in August of 2001.  (Man, I've been working on this project waaaaaay too long.)  I figure that I would rather just install them myself than risk having something happen to my original MC.  Plus, I'm not sure that they are still in the rebuild business.

I tried blowing back through the 2 MC outlets by mouth, and I can easily blow air back through them.  I can't believe that there is a 10 psi valve in there.

It looks like the NAPA UP472 rebuild kit comes with the valves and new brake line seats.  I think that I'll just go that route.

I understand the process for removal of the seats, but I have a question about installation.  Should you install the new seats using only the tube nut to press them into place?  It seems like this could possibly score the surface of the seat that mates with the brake line.  Would it be better to install the seats using an actual brake line & nut instead of just the nut?  Should anything be used on the new seats, such as Loctite retaining compound or brake fluid for lubrication?

I really appreciate all your help on this, Steve.

-Jeff

Steve-
I checked my MC for RPVs and didn't find anything.  I took a piece of paper towel and rolled it into a very small 'tooth pick' shape.  I could easily insert it at least 1/2" - 3/4".  The MC was rebuilt by SSBC (Stainless Steel Brakes Corp.).  I would have thought that they knew what they were doing.

Now, How do I fix this?  Can I buy a MC rebuild kit and install them myself?

Any input is appreciated.
Thanks,
Jeff

The processes that are described in that thread are for full-polish, not for the original dull finish.

OK, so what process did you use to achieve the original dull finish?

Earlier this evening I posted some pics on TC of some Ive done myself.

What process did you use?

^^Good stuff to know.  I have a 4-drum manual brake car.  I had my original master cylinder rebuilt and stainless-sleeved.  I hope they kept the original RPV set-up.  I haven't installed the MC on the car yet.  Is there any way to check for the correct RPVs by examining the master cylinder?

Jeff68, I've sent you a PM.

Got it.  Thanks.

Does anyone actually have any documentation beyond what Ed has said and shown in pictures? 

I'm not doubting anyone's input --as I said above, change seems to have been the rule of thumb-- but the venues I participate in rely on "factory documentation".     

What "factory documentation" would you like from me regarding my car?  I posted a picture and made a statement of fact regarding my car, but that doesn't appear to be the same type of 'documentation' that Ed provided.  If you are only concerned with early 68 cars, just say so and I will let it be.

My car was built in June.  I forgot what week - I must be getting old.  The car is at the paint shop, so I can't run to the garage to look at the tag.

My understanding is that the standard '68 Camaro grilles were natural grey--including the Z/28 and SS350--while the SS big-block cars had the grille painted black to match the tailpan. I'd like to know something definitive on this as well.

I can tell you definitively that my original owner 68 L30/M20 was delivered with a grey plastic grille with the outer area painted satin black and the inner portion painted silver.  That's a fact.  I'm not sure why people keep saying that they were either all black or all grey.  There are a few other threads about the correct painting of the 68 grilles that you may want to check out.

The emblem on 68Zproject's car is a standard grille emblem that is 'incorerctly' painted.  The standard emblem should have a black bowtie with red vertical recessed stripes - just as shown in both of the pictures that bertfam posted.

Most 68's were black while later grilles (late May or Early June, 1968) were left gray. (Service replacements were also gray.)

Wait, are you trying to say that the standard 68 grille was either all black or left 'plain plastic' grey?  That can't be correct for all 68 cars.  I painted my NOS grille to match my original grille.  My original grille was grey plastic.  The outside was painted satin black, and the inside was painted silver - just like the picture listed in 1968RSZ28's post.

For the main dash cluster, you can buy chrome mylar trim from Rick's.  If you take your time, it comes out very nice.


For the lights, wipers, etc., you can buy reproduction pieces.  I don't think that a chome paint would look very good on those pieces.

For the console gauges, I used a chrome/silver paint and it looks pretty good.  Since there isn't a lot of chrome showing you can get away with chrome paint without having it look too bad.  IMO, the reproduction console gauge covers are junk.

Well, you can't really see the grille all that well, but here is a picture taken of my 68 Camaro the day it was delivered (dosn't get any more original than that!):


What do you need to know about the grille? 

I like the body color wheels/dog dish caps on the 69s, but not so much on the 68s. 
I have a set of NOS dog dish caps that I am going to run on my original steel wheels (painted argent silver) along with trim rings.  IMO, it looks great and is a change from the thousands of rally wheels out there.  I tried the caps & rings with body color painted wheels, but it just looked a little goofy to me.

I know what you mean.  I restored a set of original GM deluxe door panels after having a horrible experience with the repros.  They may not be absolutely perfect, but they are much better than the repros.  My original dash pad only has one small hairline crack - it is only visible from about 6" away, and the edges of the crack haven't started lifting.  The color needs to be freshened up, so I was considering just giving it a re-dye.  I hate to send it off to someone like Just Dashes to be 'restored', since they would end up stripping it to the bare core and starting over.  I guess I'll wait to see how this new reproduction fits before doing anything.