Messages

The car is driver, so originality is not entirely important, other than the desire to make it "appear" original.  It will shown, but seriously doubt it will ever be in a points show.

So, far, I am not impressed with the durability of the trunk spatter paint that I have tried.  Even with the recommended clear coat, it scratches easily.

I thought about using a bed liner coating.  I figured I could use a black base and then before it dried, use an aqua color and spatter it over that.  If they make it in a satin finish, that would be even better!

What does everyone think?

For what it's worth, a 68 Firebird I am working on is using the middle holes.

I have an old SBC that is maxed out at 0.60" over.  It has about 70,000 miles since it was rebuilt.  Several thousand miles ago, I tore down the motor and did a quick hone and ran the motor with no apparent blow-by problems.  (On cold mornings, it does sound like a diesel!  Piston slap?)  I can't remember what type of rings I used.



For other reasons, I have torn down the motor again and I'm going to try to do a hone one more time.  I have no idea what the actual taper is.  There is very slight ridge I can feel, with the sides of the cylinders being a little less, so I know there is an out-of-round condition.  I can still see a lot of the original cross hatch on the walls, but the pattern is irregular and somewhat patchy.



Since this is not the correct way to be resurfacing the cylinders, I was wondering what would be the best ring to use that could tolerate the irregular wear.


Thanks!

Has anyone done any research regarding the factory strut and shock rates for the 83 Z/28? I would like to get replacements that are close the factory specs. I know there are several performance combinations available, but I don't want anything too stiff.

Another thing I remember when I ordered the car, is that the front strut piston/rod was thicker on the Z than the coupe. Are the performance struts the same size? I haven't seen any aftermarket struts designed for the Z/28 only, so I am going to assume different sizes will fit all third gen Camaros.

Thanks!

Larry

It's time for me to replace the struts and shocks on my 83 Z/28. I ordered the car from the factory and the car presently has 230,000 miles and the shocks are original! It's only been recently that I have noticed a slight front end bounce when going over dips and bumps.

Has anyone else got this kind of mileage on their struts and shocks?

Larry

I forgot to turn off the circuit breaker to my air compressor last night.  Well, during the night it turned on, and at some point both connecting rods broke.  Since it couldn't build pressure, it ran for who knows how long until I heard it running this morning.

Is there a method or system available to prevent an air compressor running uncontrolled for long periods?  I thought of using a timer that could be set to run for, say, 30 minutes every time the compressor starts and resets when the compressor turns off.  I think that would be long enough since I don't believe I would ever need to operate the compressor any longer, but if it were unattended, short enough to prevent an uncontrolled run time.

I've searched online, but haven't found anything that has a delay longer than 17 minutes.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

Larry

Now that's the best advice I've gotten so far!  Easier than sub frame connectors.  I don't take off the tops enough.  It's weird, with the tops off it's noisier, maybe because of the wind, but seems quieter rattle-wise.  It does have 200,000 miles on it.

Larry

My 83 T-Top Z/28 was tight as a drum when I ordered it new from the factory.  It took just a few years for the rattles to start.  Is this common to all Third gens or just the T-Top cars?  I can jack up one corner of the car and can see the doors go out of alignment, so it definitely flexes.  I'm really not sure if it's just the body, as I can hear the back hatch and doors rattle too.  It seems like I can remember my wife's 82 Camaro 6 cylinder coupe not being near as noisy as mine when it was about the same age.

Larry

You can find them on eBay.

Larry

I think that since the bodies are reproductions, there will be ways to spot them.  Plus, the bodies will just "look" like Camaros, the title, I suppose, will show that it's not real Camaro.  Only the fools will be fooled.

Larry

Right here, of course!!  Tell us what your problems are.  We might be able to help ya.

Larry

69-er here.  Was also 69-er in the old forum.

Larry

If someone could look at their 68 or 69 to verify a couple issues I'm trying to solve, I would be most appreciative.

Is the Black/White wire for the amp gauge connected to the splice that's near the horn relay or is it attached directly to the same terminals as the 10 gauge red wire and fusable link at the horn relay?

On cars that have the glove box light, I've only seen a separate orange wire that plugs into the fuse box that powers the light. The assembly manual shows it it to be integrated into the harness. Which one do you have?

Thanks!

Larry