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Keep an eye out for this showing up on a car

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/399398019622789/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks

Im kicking around the idea of going to manual steering from my current power steering set up. Steering arm length / pitman length etc is getting a bit confusing to me after reading up on them. My car is a factory 4 speed BB car with non tilt factory column and front disks.

I have a 5679142 Camaro gear that is dated for my car.

I would like to know the proper GM part numbers for:
1) Correct GM part number pitman arm (short or long) whichever is correct
2) Correct GM part number for L&R steering arms
3) Correct rag joint coupling kit

Maybe someone can chime in with a parts list for this project.

1968 complete Z motor $3,800.

google search indicates 124378N445313 engine has been listed for sale before

https://www.facebook.com/commerce/listing/7622194124479232/?media_id=1&ref=share_attachment

Looks like they were from a black 68


https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/281234438115781/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks

Looks legit to me. Let experts weigh in. BU code in paperwork is incorrectly stated as 4.10 rather than 3.73. Might not be original trans.

75K No sale at Mecum Kissimmee 2023

https://zhillsclassiccarauction.com/auction/z186-1969-chevrolet-camaro-z-28/

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/839234851006839/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks

Advertised as rebuilt z28 302

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/892236005596522/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_general&referral_story_type=general&tracking=%7B%22qid%22%3A%22-2780404525236077896%22%2C%22mf_story_key%22%3A%222276943536831488054%22%2C%22commerce_rank_obj%22%3A%22%7B%5C%22target_id%5C%22%3A2276943536831488054%2C%5C%22target_type%5C%22%3A6%2C%5C%22primary_position%5C%22%3A20%2C%5C%22ranking_signature%5C%22%3A3850128548835804619%2C%5C%22commerce_channel%5C%22%3A501%2C%5C%22value%5C%22%3A0.00021008248080853%2C%5C%22upsell_type%5C%22%3A3523%2C%5C%22candidate_retrieval_source_map%5C%22%3A%7B%5C%227104236296303603%5C%22%3A3502%7D%2C%5C%22grouping_info%5C%22%3Anull%7D%22%2C%22lightning_feed_qid%22%3A%22-2780419231133517361%22%2C%22lightning_feed_ranking_signature%22%3A%223850128548835804619%22%2C%22ftmd_400706%22%3A%22111112l%22%7D

CRG has a nice computer program to download that decodes G1 cars. Has anyone tried to build a phone app that does the same?

7N126733  VI03IMU

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/677729341111313?referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A6ea4a40c-a726-4827-9227-b4e96be3a9fe

Does anyone know of a proper black paint and its proper finish to paint my silver headlight bezels the correct black? Just found that silver is incorrect for my car.

Ritchies Chevrolet 69 fathom green RS

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1281799635838093/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks

 https://www.facebook.com/groups/1672620209668636/?hoisted_section_header_type=recently_seen&multi_permalinks=3669677326629571#

Maybe TI913MQ

Documenting my glass I found all to be LOF DOT 15 with IV (6/69) dates codes. Windshield was an M4. All others are M58. I didnt find any mention of M58 on the CRG site. Any core members familiar with the M58?

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=7187955041235960&set=pcb.7051886281542882

https://www.facebook.com/groups/423136105264148/permalink/1342291400015276/

Did all 69 Camaros have the holes for weld nuts on the rear roll pan for the bumperettes? PO covered the holes during restore and never installed the lower bolts. Im installing the deluxe bumper guards front and rear and have to somehow locate the weld nuts from under the care so I can expose the hole to install the lower bolts. AIM shows the hole and bolts but I only see a tiny little hole in that area when looking at back side of roll pan under car. Im thinking in can drill through for the back side if those little holes are in fact where the weld nuts are. Thoughts?

I saw this on one of the Camaro FB groups and was curious to see if a % has been observed on TT before. The letters seems to be a little to crisp to me as well

Noticed this on craigslist Pittsburgh. Maybe legit, maybe not. 18N46334   V0620MO

https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pts/d/midland-1968-camaro-shortblock/7652244543.html

Can anyone ID the manufacturer of these rockers based on the "C" stamp? Doing the rocker arm adjustments and was curious. 69 L78..

Looking at tail light replacement on my 1969 SS. Is this a re-pro? If so who did make them back in 69?

Is it possible to have 3954873 steering arms on both sides of car? Looks like 3954873 to me on the attached pics. The one on bench came off my drivers side. Other pic is passenger side still on car.

Playing around with new distributor and I wanted to run this timing table by the members. Seemed to be a bit sluggish and got hotter than the 180-185 it usually runs at. Got up to around 200 on light cruise.

Motor specs:

396/375 HP
840 cast closed chamber oval heads
11:1 domed pistons
Holley 780 4346
Factory spec L78
No less than 93 octane. usually 100

Does anyone out there have any contacts for old plate frame or dealer emblem from 1960's Marsh Hallman Chevrolet in Albany, NY?

In my quest to solve my issue, I have read and researched. Ill start by saying I rebuilt the internals if the horn / signal assembly and put hub and wheel back to correct. As we know it pretty much only goes together one way when the steering shaft mark points to 12 oclock. Same goes with pitman to output shaft on box due to the 4 spline index grooves in box output shaft. When my pitman points straight forward, wheels are straight but steering shaft notch is at 3 oclock. Is something out of phase here in column? I attached photos of all hoping someone sees something out of whack. Perhaps the parting seam location shown on underside of column might yield a solution? It seems like my signal canceling works but sometimes have to cancel manually if not making a full turn. It is assembled correctly within the hub. Sorry about pic orientation. I tried to get them right side up but it would work when I uploaded and posted.

Im going through the car since I bought it. Specs of car are below in signature.

No resistance wire being used here and battery is brand new.

So heres what I have going on. Car is kind of hard to start when cold so I started going through the ignition that was previously installed and doing some testing. Car came with Pertronix Flamethrower distributor. Its not the ignitor 2 or 3. Flamethrower 2 coil that says 0.6 ohms on the label (more on that later). 

Here is the good.

I checked the vacuum canister on distributor and it holds vacuum well. I could see the advance plate move as I applied and released vacuum. The counterweights and springs are not rusted and move freely as the should. I removed the coil to test primary and secondary windings. I got .08 on the primary and 8.07K on the secondary (perhaps low?)
Here is the bad

I then removed the coil to distributor plug to keep motor from starting. I hooked up the meter for 12V and attached leads to + and - side of coil to check cranking volts. When I cranked over, the meter numbers jumped all over the place quickly up and down as seen in video.

It was wired up like this. Red wire from distributor goes to + side of coil. Black wire from distributor goes to - side of coil.

So do I have the wrong coil for this car? It looks like this coil may be for a 6V system after looking it up on Pertronix site. Why is my voltage going wonky like that during startup?