Messages

Using a toothless distributor, I'm getting 50+psi at gauge.

But even after 5-8 minutes I'm getting no flow through pushrods to rockers. (30-30 cam, solids)

Should I be using the rubber ring to seal the distributor or is there some other possible problem?

This is a fresh engine throughout.

paul

A 302cu in SBC, fresh with Eagle crank, rods,JES forged 11-1 pistons, comp flat tappet cam, heads fresh, fel-pro 17030 composite head gaskets, square decked block....

Did a leakdown test out of curiosity after the right bank cylinder head had to be replaced because of a cracked seat. Newly-done head was installed but has developed slight head gasket leakage into #6.

Pulled the head, replaced the damaged gasket, retorqued head and got out the leakdown gauges. All four cylinders on that bank are at a 20psi difference. All four cylinders on the left hand bank are at 10-15 psi difference. Pressure applied was 80psi.

Should I be trembing in dismay or should I finish buttoning up the motor with the thought that the seal on the right bank will improve once the engine has fired again?

paul

This car has none of the requisite RS features other than the electric operating doors, grill and surround. It is totally electric. No other elements of an RS are present.

It looks good. We like it. But for the sake of originality I'll be pulling all of the kit components off the car and replacing with the standard assembly.

paul

If the PO decided to do the conversion DID they use RS fenders?
RS and standard fenders have different tabs for the headlamp mounts.

No...strictly the kit.

All sheet metal in car is virgin.

paul

Ours is not an RS car. The PO liked the RS front and spent $$ for the electric RS complete assembly. We like the look but have decided to replace it with a correct standard grill/headlight assembly.

It's an X33 D80 car. I believe the headlight bezels should have chrome trim over an argent base, the grill is argent, its surround is brightwork (chrome) and the outer escutcheon is body color.

Is that assumption correct?

Thanks

paul

Thank you...immensely helpful.

I am in the process of replacing the firewall pad and the steering column retainer, etc. What is the actual layer profile from the firewall back? Is it the 2 pc retainer and the rubber boot, then pad, then carpet, then carpet protection plate?

Two different cars I've been able to check differ. On one, a "restoration", shows the back of the pad through the firewall from the engine bay at the steering column. The other, a supposed original car, is foam, 2 piece plate, rubber boot, firewall pad, carpet, protection plate.

I've done a search and pored over the assembly manual...it may just be my creeping senility but I haven't found something to follow.

Thank you

paul

Thank you...perfect....had to buy a complete junkyard parking brake assembly to get a correct light switch....the repros don't have the stud and the grounding end is not flared....

paul

The assembly manual isn't helpful and I failed to take a picture of the old assembly. Can somebody tell me or provide a photo of exactly how the cable and clip with the paddle assemble at the pivot piece to align with the switch?

Thank you

paul

Correct motor is stamped 19N658489 at filter boss.....

I have to learn to proof what I post....

Tale of two engines: the one in the car when it was acquired and its replacement which is ready to go in now (once the car's main dash harness is replaced among other things underneath the dash. We just don't trust 50+year old wiring).

Pad Stamp (unfortunately our car was delivered to Central Chevrolet in Columbia, SC in June, 1969)


Partial VIN at filter boss (our VIN is 124379N658489)


Crank


Crank casting #


Camshaft casting #


These were in the engine in the car when purchased at auction in 2014....a fresh rebuild which may have 1000 miles on it. From the very beginning this engine leaked at the rear main and continued to do so despite repeated in-car replacements of the seal.

After cleaning up the cylinders and resolving the seal leak it will be reassembled as a short block and offered for sale.

Its replacement is ready to go in the car (of course an 010 block, cast date 6 days before assembly):

The straps from HBC will require some significant heating and forming to match the bends in the one original which I have.

Does anybody happen to have for sale serviceable clips which hold the front caliper flex lines to the upper control arms?

Our passenger side clip is missing and the Assembly Manual does not illustrate passenger side mounting.

Apparently the passenger side upper control arm in this car has been replaced. There is no threaded hole for the self-tapping machine screw nor hole for the clip's tab.

Heartbeat City offers what seems to be a flame-cut clip but it is flat, not formed as were the factory clips.

Thank you.

paul

Ours is not a survivor....appears to have been a drag racer from beginning...June 18 production date according to NCRS....124379N658489 is VIN....X33 D80 trim tag.

Engine is removed from car. Appears to be a fresh rebuild, standard bore, TRW 11-1 pistons, correct crank and rods, evidence of a balanced assembly - block will be sleeved on #3 cylinder which definitely has a crack in the wall. No other damage evident. No ridges in cyinders.

19N688260 is VIN on filter boss. (could possibly be 268 but 260 looks to be the right number.