Topics

My question is about the correct location for the fuel gauge sender unit ground wire for 1968 SS coupe. I know it is supposed to be attached to the outside of the tank strap structure on the passenger side. But my tank strap ground is on the inside part of the tank strap structure on the drivers side. I know the gas tank has been replaced. I have checked the passenger side tank strap holder and there is no evidence that a ground wire was ever attached there (no hole for screw). The ground wire looks original with correct inner diameter "star" like pattern. The screw itself may be original ( I need to check that again). So I am wondering if anyone has seen any variation in the position of this ground wire? My car has a late July build date for 1968.
Thanks,
Allen

My question is about the special trim piece along the drip rail of vinyl top equipped cars. The Legends Judging Manual on page 24 shows a special trim piece, a strip of metal along the inside of the drip rail. It starts just behind the quarter window and goes over the door area. I was not aware of this trim piece. I did search on the CRG forum but I didn't find what I was looking for. Can anyone chime in on this topic and give some details and where I can get these trim pieces?
My car is not "matching numbers" since the block was decked, but I think most of the rest of the car is original. I just enjoy making it as original as I can and working on the little details. My car is 68 SS L34 coupe with A/C, TH400 and power windows.

Thanks in advance for any information.
Allen

I have 1968 L34 with factory A/C. On the evaporator box there is supposed to be a blue and silver decal or sticker. I always thought it went on the evaporator box just behind the expansion valve on the engine side. But recently I saw pictures of a "correctly restored" 68 L35 with factory A/C and the silver and blue Harrison sticker was applied to the top of the evaporator case on the outboard portion. Can the experts here at CRG tell me which is the correct location? My old sticker ( that I applied many years ago) is coming off and I want to replace it and put it in the right spot.
Thanks in advance

Allen

I know that the usual place for the Bow tie Tonawanda valve cover sticker is on the passenger side valve cover near the front. But I was wondering if that is true for L34 and L35 cars with factory A/C? There are a lot of brackets for the A/C compressor that cover up areas of the passenger side valve cover. So I was wondering if the sticker was placed on the driver's side valve cover for these A/C equipped cars. If the sticker was placed by the Tonawanda plant before the engine was installed, then I guess it was always on the same side regardless if it was intended for an A/C car or not. I looked through the threads and posts on this subject in the originality section but I did not find my answer. Any inputs would be greatly appreciated.

Allen

My question is about quality SS hood Louvers for 1968 SS 396. Several years ago I purchased reproduction chrome hood louvers for my 68 L34. The ones that came on the car when I bought it were a little pitted and I am pretty sure they were repops. The new ones I bought were from a reputable parts supplier specializing in first gen Camaro parts and they were claimed to be the best available. The chrome is very good and the fit is excellent but there are wavy sections along the sides and along the top rim (outer rim not the "stacks") that just bother me more and more as time goes on. Its such a prominent feature and I notice the wavy sections and flaws every time I drive it now. So, to shorten my sob story - can anyone recommend where I can get a new set of hood louvers that don't have wavy sections or visible flaws in them? Does anyone have a re-chromed set of originals they want to sell? Does anyone have a recent experience with reproductions from a source they can recommend?
Thanks,
Allen

I have a question about the correct way to attach the ''Camaro" and "SS" fender emblems - were they originally attached with barrel nuts or speed nuts? I have to do some touch up painting on my DS fender so I am wondering if I need to find a way to unscrew any speed nuts or just gently pry out the emblems from barrel nuts. Any knowledge, suggestions, help or experiences would be most welcome.
Thanks,
Allen

I have 1968 SS with factory A/C. Does anyone know where to get a reproduction of the high density foam insulation that is found on the A/C hose going back over the compressor? its a thick black foam insulation about 2 inches long around the hose itself. It keeps the hose from vibrating against the compressor or muffler brackets.

HELP!!! I have a long standing problem - my 68 L34 has a starting issue when engine is hot. I have tried so many things: New battery cable, new battery with high CCA, double checked and rebuilt alternator + replaced voltage regulator to make sure battery is being charged, Checked voltage at coil (12 v at start ~ 9 -10 v at run), adjusted timing and finally a reduction gear starter. So now it will turn over when it is hot ( not real fast but fast enough) but it does not want to start when hot. I can get a jump box or a jump off another car and it will start right away within one or two cranks. By itself it will not start until I wait about 30 minutes. What is going on here? I don't know what else to try. By the way this 396 has been rebuilt and compression is 10:1. I love CRG and the discussion forum and the experts here have helped me out many times. I am hoping CRG can help me get this bug out so I can fully enjoy my car. Any ideas are welcome.
Thanks,
Allen

I have 1968 L34 with factory AC and TH400 trans. The car currently has an older replacement radiator that looks mostly stock in terms of tanks and brackets. It came with the car when I bought it 7 years ago. However, its leaking again and I have had it repaired twice. So I want a new or at least quality rebuild. I went to find one of the Harrison reproduction radiators with correct top channel and brackets etc. but found out that these have been discontinued at all distributors such as HBC or Rick's( darn it, my timings bad!). Where can I get a quality reproduction or even replacement radiator that looks correct and has all the right features ( 3 or 4 core, 23 ", proper brackets)? Any recommendations or direct experience would be welcome. This is such a great forum, I use CRG for everything from originality to restoration or just for entertaining reading about our favorite cars!
Allen 

My question is about relative stamp dates between correct distributor and the car and engine build date and the other engine parts. I have read many of the posts on the forum but I haven't found good answer to my question. My car is 1968 L34 with A/C PS,PB,PW. The cowl tag indicates build date is 3rd week of July 1968, (Nor plant). The block has been decked at some point and numbers are gone. The Block cast date is February 1968 ( so I doubt it is even original). But I have been trying to get all the parts to be correct just for the fun of it. The heads are correct and have cast date of F 68 and intake is correct with cast date of E68. The exhaust manifolds have correct codes and the dates are D 68 and E 68 ( but hard to read). I found a correct # and date carb from a member on this forum ( I am so grateful). The distributor is a rebuilt and is an incorrect number stamp. It runs fine but I want the "correct" #s. If I want to find an original distributor should I look for a date to match the heads around early June (F) or earlier than that with maybe an E or even D date?
Thanks,
Allen

My question is about the stainless steel dash pad trim for 68. I have an original metal core dash pad with the trim. I took the trim off and sent the core to be recovered. I bought reproduction trim but the metal tabs that hold the trim to the pad don't line up well with the original holes in the pad. My original trim pieces are usable except that there is no black paint in the middle section of the trim pieces. At first I thought the black paint had just faded with time but there is no evidence at all for the black paint. None on the center connector piece and none on either side of the trim pieces. My question is - did the dash pad trim always come with the inner section painted black? Were there some cases where the trim was unpainted? I like the black stripe visually and I wish I could use the reproduction trim pieces I bought. However, I will have to use my originals. I hope the great experts on this forum can't weigh in on this. If all original trim pieces had the black painted section then I guess I can mask off the edges and paint the trim.
Thanks,
Allen

I have the hot start problem on my 68 SS 396 with TH400 trans. Its a stock engine with stock compression, but if I have driven it more than 10 miles or so and the engine is warm the starter will not even turn over until it cools off. This is the second stock starter I have had in the car in three years and I am sick of this problem. I am going to put a gear reduction starter in it. My question is which starter is best for the mark IV BB that will bolt right up? I know there are some new gear reduction starters for newer model GM BB but they may not line up correctly. Does anyone have any experience with a Summit or Jegs high torque starter? Any and all suggestions and recommendations are welcome.   
Thanks
Allen

I am looking for the fender baffles that came on some 1968 models with factory A/C. These are the parts that go between the radiator support and the inside of the fenders. I have pretty much completed the restoration of my 68 L34 coupe but a few of the original A/C parts are hard to find. I have not seen any correct for 1968 fender baffles on EBAY in the last few years. Does anybody know where I can get a pair ( or at least the DS)? I know my car came with these originally because the PS was still in place when I disassembled the car for restoration. Thanks for any help.
Allen

I want to know how to replace the power window motor on a 68 (in the door)? I have a new replacement motor but it is not clear to me how to unbolt the old motor and install the new one. Do you remove the motor with the glass up or the glass down? Do you have to take the glass out of the door (I hope not). You can't really see inside the lower door where the motor is attached. Maybe its just three bolts and you remove the old one and install the new one by feel or with a mirror. The Camaro Central web site states " [this motor] is super easy to install". But I can't find any instructions or drawings in the 68 AIM and I have searched this forum and on line and I can't find any reference or help with 1968 Camaro with PW. I am pretty sure parts are the same for 1968 and 1969 Camaros. I am hoping some of the great folks on this forum can chime in with some instructions or hints or even pictures. Thanks in advance.
Allen

I have a question about originality of the stainless dash pad trim piece. Did all Camaros with SS and Standard interior get the trim piece or just the ones with Deluxe Interior? My car is SS 396 L34 with A/C, PS,PB,PW tilt wheel, bumper guards but standard interior. Currently it has a urethane repro dash pad without the trim piece. I am going to install a correct vinyl covered reproduction and I want to know if this car would have or could have come with the steel dash pad trim? I have seen a few 68's with the trim piece and the standard interior and I have seen some without the trim piece. What is original and correct?
Allen

My Question is about the plastic tube like cover which goes around the tail light wire harness on 1968 Camaros (maybe 1967 and 69 as well) . I have noticed that on some original cars there is a plastic tube or black plastic like cover which goes over the tail light wire harness. You can see an example on Darrell Cook's L78 car in the Original Cars section ( look at the trunk pictures). The "tube" I am referring to seems to start over the drivers side wheel well ( in the trunk) and continues at least until the DS tail light. I have noticed some examples of this cover continue on under the gas fill tube over to the PS tail light. I want to know what this item is called, what details or features would make it correct and original and which vendors have one of these tube covers available? Thanks in advance.
Allen

I need help with a real mystery. I have an engine oil leak under the hood apparently from the passenger side valve cover bolt holes. My car is 1968 SS 396 with automatic. The engine is stock with stock heads and intake manifold and carb and original valve covers ( I think , they may be very good repros). Every time I drive the car now there is engine oil on the valve cover between the hold down bolts ( on the lip toward the intake manifold side). There is no oil under the valve cover lip on the intake manifold just on the chrome lip between the bolts. I have tried re-tightening them and even putting thin rubber gaskets around them. Still I get the oil between the valve cover bolts. Sometimes when I drive the car for 10 or 15 miles or more there will be a light spray of engine oil on the underside of the hood right over the passenger side valve cover. There is no evidence of engine oil on any other parts anywhere under the hood. No oil on the underside of the air cleaner or on the flat area of the valve cover or on the rest of the engine. No evidence of oil around the air breather tube that I can find. the engine oil is on just the underhood area over the passenger side valve cover and on the passenger side valve cover lip that is on the intake side. This is driving me crazy so I hope the FORUM can help me out with some ideas. Thanks in advance.
Allen

My question is about a purple wire with yellow tracer/stripe hanging down under my dash. I have 1968 SS coupe with auto. After working under my dash I noticed a purple wire with a yellow stripe hanging down unconnected. It has a male blade clip and is on the left side of the steering wheel column. I have checked the AIM and this forum thoroughly but I can't find a reference to this wire. It is just long enough to go to one of the accessory points on the fuse block but I don't want to just connect it to power without knowing what it does. I hope one of the experts on this forum can chime in and tell me what this wire is for. Thanks in advance.
Allen

This post is about my experience with hood hinge springs on my 68 SS. I know there are some older posts on this subject but I think this warrants a new post to share some part numbers. When I refreshed/restored my 68 SS in 2017 I thoroughly cleaned and painted my original hood hinges. I bought and installed new reproduction hood hinge springs for SS hood application. These were made by Classic Industries and had 28 coils. The hood always sagged a little. I thought it might be due to the somewhat worn original GM hinges. Recently, I decided to try GM hood hinge springs part number GM 3848272. The GM springs look pretty much identical to the reproduction springs. I installed the new GM springs and now the hood opens easier and there is no sag at all! I am very pleased. The GM springs are not much more than the repro SS hood hinge springs but they made a world of difference. I recommend using the GM springs that you can get from any GM parts dealer. Also, I used the washer trick to remove and replace the springs - that method works very well and its pretty easy. I hope someone finds this information useful.
Allen

My question is about the design of original bezel and grounding base plate for the rear antenna option on 68 Camaros. I bought a rear antenna kit from a reputable parts place that supposedly has all the assembly line correct parts. The chrome bezel looks just like the front antenna bezel and does NOT have a "tilt" to the design. Most of the parts suppliers show this bezel as being correct for the rear antenna. One vendor (HBC) shows a bezel design with a "tilt". Which one is actually correct for 1968 rear antenna? Also the base plate I got appears odd to me and doesn't really fit the contours of the underside of the fender no matter how I adjust it. Comparison of the commonly available repro base plate/ground plate to the 1968 AIM and to some photos from actual NOS rear antenna parts I found on line, show that the original base plate design may have been different from those being sold as correct for 1968 Camaro at multiple vendors. I have scanned many other posts on this forum regarding the rear antenna option but I have not found an answer to my questions. I hope the experts on this forum can chime in on the 'tilt" versus no "tilt" bezel question as well as the base plate design question. Photos of original rear antenna parts would be most helpful. Thanks in advance.
Allen

I want to ask the forum about under hood insulation for my 68 SS 396 Coupe. I am aware of several threads which address this topic ( see two of them below). However, the first thread is up to 10 years old so I am wondering what is the latest consensus on under hood insulation. Cook_dw tried to revive the question in 2015 but he got only one reply. The second thread has some good tips on clips and some great pictures. I recently bought the molded insulation pad from REM and the Classic Industries original style clips. The quality appears to be very good but I am having a few issues. The pad is very thick and getting the clips to go in is difficult to say the least and some of the clips keep popping out. I have an original GM SS hood so its not the clip hole size. Also, the pad has a green tint to it and it keeps shedding this abrasive green dust from it. I had an original Firebird some years ago with the original insulation ( worn but still there) and I don't remember it having this texture or the green tint. Two of the pictures on thread 2 show black tint pads with the texture I remember and one of the pictures shows the green heavily molded pad. Thread 1 has a recommendation from Jerry M that you should just buy the non molded pad which he says looks more original. However, that recommendation is from 2008. I hope some members will reply on this subject to bring it up to date on the various pads available, how to get the clips to stay in and relate their experiences and give me some recommendations. Thanks.
Allen

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=3331.msg21783#msg21783
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=13891.msg121196#msg121196

My question is about original color for gas tank straps for 1968. Were the straps natural steel color or painted black? Also, were there rubber anti-squeak strips between the straps and the tank? Finally, was it common for a rubberized mat to be present between the tank and the trunk floor in addition to the rubber strips shown in the AIM? This forum is excellent and I use it often as a supplement to the restoration books and the AIM. Thanks in advance.
Allen

My question is about the quality of fit of the original bumper guards against the bumper profile? In other words, I would like to see some close up examples of ORIGINAL bumper guards fitted on the car in order to judge the fitment of originals. I would like to see some pictures of front and back if anyone has them or can post some. I also started a thread in the Restoration section about who might make the best reproductions. NOS bumper guards are very expensive so I will be forced to use the repros - (or maybe just put rubber plugs in the holes). I looked at the cars in the Originality section and some show bumper guards but there are no close ups to show the fitment against the bumpers. Thanks in advance - this is a great forum!!

Allen

I bought some repro bumper guards for my 68 SS both front and back (The old ones had some pits and rust spots). The new ones do NOT fit the bumper profile very well. This car has older repro bumpers from a previous restoration in about 2006. Does anyone make bumper guards that fit the bumper profile better? The ones I recently purchased are Golden Star repros. I would like to other from others in the Restoration section about other brands and/or experience with the repro bumper guards? Thanks.
RAS

My question is regarding the originality of silver paint around the individual chrome plated stacks of the late 68 style hood louvers. Over in the Research Topic section there is a thread titled "68 SS Hood ornaments" that collected input from readers to determine when the SS 350 hood ornaments changed from fin design to the velocity stack design. Part of that thread also covered details of the stack design including that some original ornaments had a mat silver paint applied around the outer part of each individual stack opening. Toward the end of the thread it seems some originals may not have the silver paint after all. I would like to get a good answer from the "originality" forum topic group. So my question is - is it correct for the original stack style hood ornaments to have the mat silver paint applied to the outer part of each stack (but not on the upper chrome edge)?
Allen