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I finally got around to installing a set of NOS P01 wheel covers on my 68 L30/M20 convertible, and I want to show it off.

The car is now set up like it was for the majority of the 160,000 miles it covered with my Dad behind the wheel.  Although not factory-correct, my father ran nothing but RWL Polyglas F70-14 tires throughout the life of the car.  Seems appropriate to keep running them.

Comparison of 7/6/1968 and 8/1/2015:

I have the factory console gauges in my 68.  I would like to install a volt meter in place of the factory ammeter.  I see 2 different volt meters available; one made by American AutoWire for about $120, and one by Classic Headquarters for about $80.  The CHQ is supplied as the gauge only, while I think the AAW one comes with wiring & instructions.  Not positive about country of origin, but CHQ stuff is usually made overseas and I think I saw somewhere that the AAW gauge was made in the USA.  Obviously, I'd like to purchase the best quality gauge, regardless of price.

Does anyone have experience with either of these volt meters?

Thanks,
Jeff

I converted my original non-working voltage regulator to solid state using a Wells VR715.  Refer to this thread:
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=561.0;all

The VR seems to work as it should and the battery is charging properly.  However, I have noticed that the ammeter needle seems to vibrate - not a lot, but it's definitely moving back & forth around 1/8".  I checked all the connections, and everything seems to be good.

Any suggestions on what could be the culprit?

I'm putting the dash back together on my 68 convertible.  It has the original ignition switch & harness that plugs into it.  The spot on the plug that corresponds to "GRD" on the switch is empty.  There is no sign that there was ever a connector in that spot.  So, only 6 out of the 7 connectors are used. 
Is this normal?

I have a 68 L30 327 4-speed car.  It originally had the AIR system on it, but the entire system was removed shortly after delivery.  It has the original distributor and the vacuum advance is hooked up to ported vacuum.  The car has always seemed to run well.  Original static timing spec for this car is 0 degrees (IIRC).  So at idle the timing is at TDC (0 initial + 0 vacuum adv + 0 mech advance)  

Based on my research, I want to change the vacuum advance to connect to full manifold vacuum, and play with the springs on the mechanical (centrifugal) advance to start advancing just over idle and be "all in" by around 2800 rpm.  Research also indicates that I want my initial static timing at about 10 degrees, with max mechanical advance limited to about 20 degrees (rough numbers).  My issue is that my mechanical advance plate allows for 34 degrees of crankshaft advance (17 degrees distributor advance).  I measured this on the mechanism, and it corresponds to the stamping of "734" on the part, the last 2 numerals indicating total crank advance.  The original bushing is in place on the mech advance limiting pin, and the mechanism operates smoothly.  With 34 degrees of mechanical advance, I will still need to keep my initial static timing at about 0 degrees so that my high rpm low load  cruising timing isn't excessive ( cruise timing = 0 initial + 16 vacuum advance + 34 mech advance = 50 degrees).

My plan is to:
1)  Install a vacuum advance canister that will provide 16 degrees crank advance at idle vacuum conditions (connected to full manifold vacuum).
2)  Change the mechanical advance springs to start advancing just over idle and be "all in" by around 2800-3000 rpm.
3)  Keep initial static timing at 0 degrees.
4)  Keep existing mechanical advance limit arrangement at 34 degrees (I really don't want to modify the limiting slot).

Is this a good plan?  I know my timing curve will still not be ideal, but this should be a step in the right direction, correct?  Any other comments or suggestions?  This isn't a race car, but I'd like it to perform well.

Thanks,
Jeff

I have a set of GM XG code rally wheels and the smaller 67 style center caps.  All parts, including the center caps, are real GM parts that I bought back in the 80's.  The center caps pop in place with the palm of my hand and seat firmly.

However, I have noticed that the gap between the center cap and the wheel is not even all the way around.  The gap is a little smaller at the valve stem location and opposite the valve stem.  This is where the 'nubs' are located on the wheel (2 nubs are centered on the valve stem and one is located opposite the valve stem).  So, it appears that the center cap base is being slightly bowed out after installation.  If I jack up a front wheel and spin it, you can notice the slight runout of the center cap.  All the center caps have the same runout.  And all of the center caps are flat & true when removed & put on a flat surface.

Is this normal for original factory rally wheels?  Any way someone could check and original wheel/center cap set up fro me?  I'm just wondering if this is simply the unavoidable result of installing the center caps.

Thanks,
Jeff

Were the plastic plugs in the rear wheel wells (3 each side) installed before or after the undercoating was applied to these areas?

My originals had some undercoating on them, but I think it was from a quick re-coat that I did back in the 80's. 

Does anybody have a picture of both sides of an original factory convertible well liner?

I had a new top put on my car back in the 80's and the well liner was made out of what appears to be a black lightweight convertible top material.  It's canvas/cloth on one side and pinpoint black vinyl on the other.  The replacement from PUI is cloth with a smooth vinyl on one side, and the vinyl appears to be glued to the cloth, and is pulling away everywhere it was folded.  It looks awful.  The replacement from Electron Top is cloth with a grained glossy vinyl on the other side.

So, does anyone know what is factory correct?

I posted this over on Team Camaro, but figured I'd post here as well to see if anyone has restored their original ball joints:

My 68 Camaro has the original ball joints.  The car was maintained religiously, so the ball joints are all good.  I was checking things over the other day and saw that one of the uppers has a cracked boot.  For those familiar with original ball joints, I have the following questions:
1)  Is it possible to replace just the boots?
I was thinking about buying a set of 'correct' reproduction ball joints made by Classic Suspension, then carefully removing the boots and installing them on my original ball joints.

2)  Can a new boot be installed on the upper or lower ball joints without removing the ball joint?
On the uppers, it looks like the boot is held in place with a sleeve.  Not sure if I can remove this sleeve without taking the BJ out of the A-arm.
On the lowers, it looks like I could just swap the boots.

So, has anyone done (or attempted) this?

I recently picked up a new GM clutch bellcrank pivot stud.  This is the stud that screws into the engine block, and the bellcrank (z-bar) pivots on it.
I want to confirm that I got the right part, since it didn't have any original packaging with it.  I know the correct GM part number is 3866568. My car is at the body shop so I can't get to it right now to confirm.

Can someone please confirm what the correct thread size is for this stud.  Thanks.

This is what I bought:

Were there originally rubber gaskets between the marker light bezels and the body, or was there only the foam gasket between the plastic light housing and the body?  I checked the AIM, but it didn't show the gaskets at all.

Background: 
I have my original foam gaskets.  If I install the lights with only the foam gasket, they fit nicely (but I'm worried about the bezels damaging the paint).  If I install with the foam gasket and the rubber gasket, it looks like I'm going to really have to crank down on the nuts to get the bezel to sit flush against the body.  The situation gets worse if I use new foam gaskets.  I'm trying to avoid any distortion around the side markers.

The 4-speed transmission mounts available from the usual suppliers state that they are good for all 67, 68 & 69 4-speed cars.

However, looking through the parts books, it seems that there were 3 different mounts:
3870182 = 67 all ST
3928392 = 68 - 69 all ST with 230, 250, 327 & 350
3895830 = 68 - 69 with 302 & 396

Does anyone know the differences between these mounts?  Just wondering if there are dimensional differences or just differences in rubber compound.

Is there any problem with using a 3895830 on my 68 327/275 with a M20 4-speed?

Was there any type of foam seal used between the Y-shaped defroster duct and the openings in the metal dash panel?

Is it typical for a distributor rotor to have a steel bar instead of brass?  By bar, I mean the radial bar on the rotor that transmits electricity to the contacts inside the distributor cap.

Background:   I have a Delco rotor with a brass bar, but it is the shorter "E" stamped version.  I want to use a rotor with the longer bar, so I picked up two different old aftermarket rotors.  They both have the longer bar, but it is a steel bar that is plated to look like brass.  I'm worried that these won't work as well as a brass bar.  The car doesn't get driven much and I think the steel bar may end up rusting at the tip of the bar. 

I am in search of some original type snaps for my convertible top boot.  Anyone know where to get the proper snaps either original or correct reproductions.  They have a threaded stud on them and they are a single piece.  The reproductions I have are stainless with a separate brass-looking screw in the middle.

Here is a picture of what I'm looking for:

I put a new oil pan on my L30 327 back in the 80's.  Luckily, I saved my original and I am going to install it.  I'm trying to figure out how much (if any) metal work I should do on it.  Please take a look at the back edge of the bottom of the pan and let me know what you think about the dents.  Leave the small dents or pound them out?  I just don't want to spend time straightening the pan if they were basically this way from the factory.

Also, any suggestions for removing the minor surface rust on the outside of the pan?  I really don't want to sandblast & risk any leftover contamination inside the pan.  I was going to use paint stripper then apply rust removal gel to the rusty spots.

I just want to confirm that the inside edges of the windshield frame are painted body color and not interior color.  Is this correct?
Thanks, Jeff

I have a 68 Camaro with the L30 327.  I seem to have an unusual alternator fan.  The alternator (and fan) are original to the car.
Has anyone ever seen a fan like this?

The 12-bolt rear end cover on my car has quite a few pits in it from rust.  Some time ago, I sandblasted the cover then primed & painted it.  It looks good, but you can obviously still see the pits throught the paint.  I'll be doing a diff oil change when the car comes back from paint, so that will be the time to fix it.  I'm trying to decide if it is worth the effort to do 'body work' on the original cover. 

So, how are the reproduction covers?  HBC claims to have one that is better than everyone else's, but they also want a premium price for it.  Has anyone here used one of their covers?  I like the idea of a new cover, but don't like the idea of reproductions parts that look like reproductions.

Any opinions or recommendations are appreciated.  Thanks.

I purchased a set of repro heater hoses for my 68.  I assume that the 5/8" hose is supposed to have no markings at all while the 3/4" hose should have "GM" and the square.  Correct?  No other markings?  

I'm asking because my hoses both have what appear to be manufacturing dates stamped on them every foot or so.  One is marked "03 22 10 A" and the other "07 07 10 A".  I was going to remove the markings, but wanted to check first.  Thanks.

Are all components of the front sway bar end links (bolts, nuts, washers & spacers) supposed to be silver zinc or cad?  I can't tell from my original parts.

Also, does anyone know where to get the correct end link bushings?  My original bushings are slightly taller and a different shape than the generic replacemment style bushings.  These look like the correct bushings, but only appear to be available as part of a kit:
http://www.heartbeatcity.com/store/product/19683/Camaro-Sway-bar-end-link-kit--exact--67-68-69/

I have been looking into having some parts for my restoration plated.  For example, the alternator fan & pulley. 
From what I can find, it seems that the finish should be silver cadmium or silver zinc.  The problem is that these 2 finished look very different.  I have had assorted small parts silver cad plated, and the finish is dull looking compared to zinc plating.  Therefore, I would think that these 2 finishes are not interchangeable from a "correctness" standpoint. 

So, what is the correct silver colored plating to use on parts like the alt. fan & pulley, coil bracket, etc.?

I have a 68 convertible with deluxe interior.  I made the mistake (about 25 years ago) of throwing away the original trunk mat.  It was in really bad shape, but I wish I still had it.  Anyhow, I was lucky enough to find a NOS trunk mat, but it doesn't have any of the slots & cut-outs for the trunk to tailpan braces or the cocktail shakers.   

Does anyone have a good picture of an original convertible trunk mat showing how it fits around the braces and cocktail shakers?  I'm also interested in what the hole for the spare tire hold-down looks like as well.  Thanks.

Does anyone have a picture of a 68 Camaro with the N96 wheel covers?
Classic Industries appears to have these available under the GM part number 3903086.  I was wondering if these are the same wheel covers that came on the Camaro if N96 was ordered.
I'm trying to decide what wheels to run on my car.  My car came with the P01 covers, which I don't care for (although I have a NOS set to use).  I was going to run painted wheels with NOS dog dish covers, but I really like the look of the N96 wheel covers.
Thanks.

The front header panel is attached to the fender on each side with 2 bolts with nuts.  I have the original bolts, but I do not have the nuts bagged & tagged with them.  Does anyone know the correct nuts?  Are they flanged?  Sorry, my AIM is at the shop and I wanted to try to find the nuts in my pile of hardware.  Thanks.