Topics

Is the # 6290592 the right cable for the #Y55 battery?  Or is the #6290591 as shown on T60-A1 in the AIM? It is interesting that the Z/28 cables are shown in the HD battery section. It seems a bit confusing.

Are the correct seat bumpers domed or flat? The original repros I got are flat. The new replacements (Soft Seal) are domed.

I noticed my emblem was leaking a little oil, then after a ride Sunday it was gone. Blown off I guess. I have a new one coming. What should I use to put it back on? RTV?

Was this starter used on other applications besides the '69 302? I found one with a Dec. '69 date. Possibly an LT1 from '70 or '69 Canaro and Corvette?

What is the difference between the left side V8 and Z/28 plug wire stands?

For those interested, here is a story of a '67 Z/28 restoration and how the owner found the original engine to the car.
The latest owner found the engine because of a member at Team Camaro posting about buying a T-bucket with a 302 engine in it. John Mello has seen this car and verified the originality of it and the engine, as the owner tells me. I am posting this for him since he is a friend of mine and he does not own a computer.

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1457054#post1457054

Did that engine have a special 5 quart pan or was it a 4 quart pan? I am asking specifically for 1968 but in general as well. Thanks.

What is the head marking on the original/correct bolts?

Does anyone have pictures of original '69 tail pipes? I would like to see them on a car from side shot and maybe off the car too. The repros seem to be bent wrong. They angle down slightly when they have proper clearance for the rear bracket to frame and I can't get the .625" measurement to the rear body valence with the pipes level. Any help would be appreciated. They also may be a bit too long and stick out too far.

Year ago you recommended the GM .028" head gaskets to me. There is alway a lot of discussion about quench on hipo engines. With an undecked block and a .028" gasket the quench ends up a little higher than what is generally recommended. How do you build a 302 and what do you consider the proper quench for stock rebuilds? Thanks.

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=138997&page=22

The attached page has 2 different messages on the underside of the lid. Anyone know why the diffrence. The message on the rechromed lid is from a barn find Z/28. The one I posted is one I bought thinking it was an original.

Were the original tailpipes parallel to the ground, tilted down or tilted up. The AIM shows a distance to the body only.

Does the upper adjustment bolt have a "TR" head? I believe it is a 5/16 NC about 1" long.

Thanks in advance.

I saw a well documented Z/28 yesterday. The master cylinder was stamped "PG" where the "US" would normally be. Could this be a factory replacement? If not what was a "PG" master used on?

Was the only function of different numbers stamped on coils to coordinate the correct bracket required? Were a 293, 298 and 270 coil bracket all different. Obviously the 208 mounted totaaly different than the V* brackets. I realize the 270 coil bracket angles more than the 298 coil bracket. But why was the 293 different? A lot of questions here.

The Chassis Service Manual only lists 1 value for coil primary and secondary resistance so the coils must have been the same.

Were the clamps originally plated or bare steel finish? The bolts I assume had the same phosphate finish as other bolt.

I am restoring my YH wheels. The last set I used the OEM spray can paint. For 1969 I understand the argent had a green tint. I am thinking to have the painter do it this time. Is there a paint code?

Jerry, have you raced any '70 Z/28s with the LT-1 in your stock classes? Have any beat your car?

Were they painted or plated? I removed my tank and it appears to be painted black over mild steel. Looks like it has never been removed. The inside is definitely plated zinc or galvanized.

Some how my light bulb connector became disconnected from the radio housing. I can not figure out which hole it plugs in to. Nothing gives me light. The bulb is good. Can anyone give me the right hole? Top, bottom end?

Quite a discussion going on over at Team Camaro on the sale of Old Reliable. Did I read on another thread that Jerry MacNeish is building another car to race?

I found out this past weekend that the OER latex trunk seal absorbs water like a sponge. It does not work like a seal to stop water. Anyone else have this problem and what are you using? The GM replacement seal is too hard to let the trunk lay flat. I will the Metro seal next.

What is the best method to seal the spoiler installtion? Rubber washers under the nuts? Strip caulk?

I have what I thought may be an original gas cap. It may not be afterall. The license plate door hits the gas cap. Anyone know of this problem. The gas tank looks like it can not move forward at all.

I am very close to finishing my car. 1969 Z/28 (X33) with original differential, non-matching DZ and M20. All the dated components are matched to the engine. All original GM sheetmetal was refinished. I have used the best trim etc. (most NOS) and restored as many parts I could. The paint is a quality job. Everything was rebuilt except the differential which did not need it. NADA lists the low, med, hi prices as $25K, $45K and $84K. I don't consider this car a 100 point car by any means. I haven't added all the receipts but I am sure it is less than $45K. I am thinking $45-50K agreed value. Am I too low? Any opinions? Thanks.