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I'm looking for recommendations on quarter glass chrome trim. I bough a new set from Classic headquarters through national parts depot.

They are made poorly and the channel where the rubber slides in fits too tight. I've tried soap and heat to make the rubber more pliable.  It is clear the issue is with the chrome not the rubbers, when comparing to my originals. The aftermarket set will not accommodate rubber inserts from soft seal or D&R hugger performance parts.

How is everyone else coping with this issue?

 National Parts Depot will not except a return or provide a replacement... or give money back.

I am looking for recommendations on an exhaust system for a 1969 Camaro SS350. I want a stainless exhaust system but want it to have an original appearance and will be going with chrome tail pipes.

I have a z28 with a Gardner system and like their stuff, but would like stainless since I will be driving this car more and think it will show better over time.

I have a 1969 Camaro base coupe with a 307. Manufactured in August 1968. The car had a space saver spare tire. From what I have read 69 Camaros had the tire pressure decal in the door jam. My car still had the original paint on the glove box door and some residue in one of the circular pockets where the sticker would have been placed, had the car been made in 1968. Does anyone know of 69 Camaros getting the circular decal inside the glove box? Would space saver provide two decals?

I'm expecting my Camaro to have had the F70-14 hub cap rims.

I have a 1969 Camaro with dark blue interior. I've found the right paint code for metal parts. I am also familiar with the gloss percent in various places.

Can someone tell me how the dash pad should be painted? The metal parts have a slight bit of metallic flake but I imagine this shouldn't be the case for plastic stuff like a dash pad, kick panels, or console.

Hello,  Can someone show pictures or confirm the location of the trunk space saver spare tire bracket which gets welded to the trunk floor?  I am interested in a 69 coupe, NOT convertible.

I am familiar with the dimples in the trunk floor and how they were used as reference points for those on the assembly line to weld the bracket in place.  I am not able to locate a picture of an original coupe with space saver to prove this, but the attached photo shows my best guess, based on the AIM manuals (Page 407 N65, Page 136 UPC 10).

The other photo is of an original bracket in a 69 coupe with full size/standard spare tire.

What does everyone recommend for windshield, drip rail, and rear glass moldings?

I have some originals but they may be beyond repair. A few of my set are kinked.

Is there anyone out there who restores moldings?

Hello,

I recently purchased a rear window defogger for my 69 Camaro. I want to keep the wiring as close to original as possible. My question... would the factory have these connections bundled into the main dash trunk etc harnesses? Or would they have used what I'll call an accessory harness like you would buy from American auto wire and others.

There are even some GM new old stock harness that resemble the American auto wire stuff.  They plug into the dash switch, and a 12 volt accessory port on the fuses block to make it work. Did the factory do our cars this way?

On my car there are a number of empty pin positions In the factory dash harness where it splits off towards the rear of the car, just behind the headlight switch.  Makes me think these pins would have been utilized for an instance like mine.

I retrofitted my 69 Camaro with factory console gauges about 10 years ago. The amp meter never moves more than the width of the needle in either direction but does respond as you'd expect when lights are cut on etc. After rechecking my wiring, everything appears correct.

Can someone tell me the resistance the gauge should measure across the black and black/white terminals? I don't believe this gauge uses a ground, but please let me know if I am mistaken.

Neither terminal on my gauge shows a connection to ground and the resistance between them is 0.6 ohms. When running, I have about O.150v between the horn relay splice in the harness and junction block when drawing 15A from the battery (high beams, dome light etc.). At the gauge I only see 0.015V during these same conditions.

I don have a EE degree but it's been 10 years since I cracked a book, so tell me if I'm being an idiot