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I'm lost. I installed a new pilot bushing and throwout bearing the other day, tested the car, everything worked fine, clutch and all. But now, not 3 days later, the clutch won't disengage. I figured I'd try and see what was up, but nothing was working. I then tightened the lower push rod so that the was no free play in the fork just to see what would happen and still, the clutch will not disengage. I checked the bellcrank and everything is tight. I'm at a loss and any help would be appreciated.

Hey all. I just did my first conversion from a powerglide to a munice this week and I couldn't be happier. That being said, I am having a few issues. One, the clutch fork play almost has to be nonexistent for the clutch to even engage and allow me to shift gears. Second, when its this tight, I can hear/feel what seems to be a whine. Any tips on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated.

Hey all, I'm currently doing a swap from a powerglide to a M20 and was wondering what other people's opinions were on a Luk Clutch kit (here's the link https://www.summitracing.com/parts/luk-04-049). I'm only going to be driving it on the road, no racing of any kind, so I don't need a high end performance clutch, I just want something that is reliable without breaking my bank and I saw this, just want some more opinions on it, thanks.

Hey all. I was wondering what the best route would be to take for my engine rebuild. I have my original 350 bare block and I'm going to be getting it machined once I am back from school. I was planning on getting a rotating assembly as I have been told they're the best "Bang for the buck". I am not building this engine to go balls to the walls with at all, I just want to build the engine so it's a good running engine with some balls but nothing insane. Let me know what some of you would think.

I decided I wanted to take out the instrument cluster to fix the bulbs since you can barely see the speedometer at night. Boy that was a mistake. Got new bulbs, put them back on the back of the cluster, and then more lights were out. I checked the circuit board, it seems to be fine. So I took a voltage tester (with the light inside the handle) to test and see if I even had power on the harness. I only have power on the wire labeled 7 on the harness. Figured I'd ask here if someone had some tips for me to track where it may be losing power. Thanks.

Does anyone know what is the best black to go with when painting the rad support? I'm currently just restoring little things here and there on my 68 rs and the rad support goes from the car paint color to primer, and then to black haha, it's kinda hard to look at, so I want to paint it black again. Let me know what black would look best.