Topics

Is the feed off the neutral safety switch continuous, once past the two-prong connection, all the way to the solenoid? When the solenoid would no longer engage, I thought the relatively new neutral safety switch had gone bad. I bypassed the neutral switch by bridging the ignition switch feed to the existing solenoid feed...alas, still no activation at the solenoid.

I then installed a jumper wire from the solenoid to the outlet side of the neutral switch and, voila, the solenoid powered up off the ignition switch and I was able to start the car.

In my wiring diagram I see no junction on the purple feed to the solenoid other than the one directly above the pedal assembly. Is there one further downstream I should look for. I'm trying to avoid tearing into the harness.

paul

Is the feed off the neutral safety switch continuous, once past the two-prong connection, all the way to the solenoid? When the solenoid would no longer engage, I thought the relatively new neutral safety switch had gone bad. I bypassed the neutral switch by bridging the ignition switch feed to the existing solenoid feed...alas, still no activation at the solenoid.

I then installed a jumper wire from the solenoid to the outlet side of the neutral switch and, voila, the solenoid powered up off the ignition switch and I was able to start the car.

In my wiring diagram I see no junction on the purple feed to the solenoid other than the one directly above the pedal assembly. Is there one further downstream I should look for. I'm trying to avoid tearing into the harness.

paul

Can anyone give me dimensions and a picture or good illustration of the lower rod....Saginaw 4 speed

thanks

paul

Does anyone have either a source for the Saginaw lock out rod (shifter to bellcrank) or its dimensions so I can make one to spec.

Small-blocks use lower lock rod 3955773 on the Saginaw, not the same as Muncie, seemingly much shorter rod due to the difference in placement of reverse in the cases.

Thanks

Paul

Using a toothless distributor, I'm getting 50+psi at gauge.

But even after 5-8 minutes I'm getting no flow through pushrods to rockers. (30-30 cam, solids)

Should I be using the rubber ring to seal the distributor or is there some other possible problem?

This is a fresh engine throughout.

paul

A 302cu in SBC, fresh with Eagle crank, rods,JES forged 11-1 pistons, comp flat tappet cam, heads fresh, fel-pro 17030 composite head gaskets, square decked block....

Did a leakdown test out of curiosity after the right bank cylinder head had to be replaced because of a cracked seat. Newly-done head was installed but has developed slight head gasket leakage into #6.

Pulled the head, replaced the damaged gasket, retorqued head and got out the leakdown gauges. All four cylinders on that bank are at a 20psi difference. All four cylinders on the left hand bank are at 10-15 psi difference. Pressure applied was 80psi.

Should I be trembing in dismay or should I finish buttoning up the motor with the thought that the seal on the right bank will improve once the engine has fired again?

paul

Ours is not an RS car. The PO liked the RS front and spent $$ for the electric RS complete assembly. We like the look but have decided to replace it with a correct standard grill/headlight assembly.

It's an X33 D80 car. I believe the headlight bezels should have chrome trim over an argent base, the grill is argent, its surround is brightwork (chrome) and the outer escutcheon is body color.

Is that assumption correct?

Thanks

paul

I am in the process of replacing the firewall pad and the steering column retainer, etc. What is the actual layer profile from the firewall back? Is it the 2 pc retainer and the rubber boot, then pad, then carpet, then carpet protection plate?

Two different cars I've been able to check differ. On one, a "restoration", shows the back of the pad through the firewall from the engine bay at the steering column. The other, a supposed original car, is foam, 2 piece plate, rubber boot, firewall pad, carpet, protection plate.

I've done a search and pored over the assembly manual...it may just be my creeping senility but I haven't found something to follow.

Thank you

paul

The assembly manual isn't helpful and I failed to take a picture of the old assembly. Can somebody tell me or provide a photo of exactly how the cable and clip with the paddle assemble at the pivot piece to align with the switch?

Thank you

paul

Tale of two engines: the one in the car when it was acquired and its replacement which is ready to go in now (once the car's main dash harness is replaced among other things underneath the dash. We just don't trust 50+year old wiring).

Pad Stamp (unfortunately our car was delivered to Central Chevrolet in Columbia, SC in June, 1969)


Partial VIN at filter boss (our VIN is 124379N658489)


Crank


Crank casting #


Camshaft casting #


These were in the engine in the car when purchased at auction in 2014....a fresh rebuild which may have 1000 miles on it. From the very beginning this engine leaked at the rear main and continued to do so despite repeated in-car replacements of the seal.

After cleaning up the cylinders and resolving the seal leak it will be reassembled as a short block and offered for sale.

Its replacement is ready to go in the car (of course an 010 block, cast date 6 days before assembly):

Does anybody happen to have for sale serviceable clips which hold the front caliper flex lines to the upper control arms?

Our passenger side clip is missing and the Assembly Manual does not illustrate passenger side mounting.

Apparently the passenger side upper control arm in this car has been replaced. There is no threaded hole for the self-tapping machine screw nor hole for the clip's tab.

Heartbeat City offers what seems to be a flame-cut clip but it is flat, not formed as were the factory clips.

Thank you.

paul

We are rebuilding the engine in our '69 Z....We have a .010 overbore block which is correct for the car...but the clean up bore will be .030 over. Can someone advise on the best pistons I should buy? Want to stay at 11-1, floating pins, 4.030 bore, 3" stroke

Rings ductile iron? .062 top and bottom; .124 oil?

Thanks

paul

Our VIN is 124379N658489. The engine in the car (an X33D80) is an 010 block, 4 bolt mains, original pan, July 25 assembly and 19N688260 VIN stamp (as best we can tell). The heads are 186 cast one day apart (K18 and K28).

The engine has a rear main oil seal leak and quite possibly a minor head gasket leak. We are planning to pull it and rebuild but I would prefer to rebuild a correct cast date block, leaving the pad unstamped after decking.

Our schedule is mid-February '20 for the removal and disassembly. It would be wonderful to find the at-birth block and supply this one to its rightful car.

paul f.

Can anyone give this idiot either pictures or explicit directions for the wiring connections on console gauges on my '69....

I have the AIM, the Jim Osborn '67-'69 wiring diagram manual (which is nothing more than the AIM).

But I am definitely confused as to the resistors, insulators, low fuel warning system....I was truly stupid and took no photos as I disassembled the cluster to install two new gauges and restore the cluster.

paul

Please spare me the effort of removing a valve cover: are the 186 heads equipped with screw-in rocker arm studs? Memory fails me.

Mine are Dec 1 68 and Dec 2 68...




Thanks

paul

Can someone give me actual dimensions of the stock driveshaft and the depth of the front yoke in the Muncie. Our '69 Z28 was a drag race car, we think. The driveshaft is 3-1/2" in diameter and seems the front yoke is shallow in its position in the Muncie. Last night I couldn't find a spec in the AIM.

Thanks

I have purchased and received a reproduction/replacement LH door switch. It has a rubber sleeve over the plunger. Is this simply to protect the plunger during shipment or was the sleeve installed originally? Doesn't seem to show up in any illustration in the AIM or elsewhere.

Thank you

Paul

The repro parts houses list an adhesive label warning that 103 octane must be used or.....else, basically...

Is that another invention by a label printer somewhere?

Paul

Was this tag attached to the negative post of batteries in 1969 or the earlier years?



Thanks

Paul

This car has had a chronic oil leak at rear of pan. I dropped the pan to discover the windage tray differs from what I've seen on this era SBCs plus it doesn't match McNeish's pictured curved edge windage tray.

Please take a look and comment:



The pan itself appears to be original:











The left rear corner of the pan is cracked at the horizontal surface and is not parallel to the rails. I can weld that up and straighten the corner if the pan is indeed original, but that doesn't answer the question of the flat windage tray.

I'm ready to pull the trigger to order a replacement pan, windage tray and pickup (PO did not weld pickup to pump body) if this pan and tray are not original and would greatly appreciate any input. Additionally, any recommendations on the pan gasket would be greatly appreciated. Cleaning the timing cover seal is not going to be easy with the engine in the car.

To remove the pan I did the following: drop idler arm from frame; loosen exhaust at manifolds; loosen trans mount bolts at trans; drain radiator and remove lower radiator hose; remove distributor cap; drain oil; remove starter; remove bellhousing dust cover; remove through bolts on both mounts; jack up engine with 2X6 on floor jack at RH exhaust manifold....drop pan.

paul

Any helpful short cuts, cautions, tips, advice on process to replace leaking rear main oil seal....

Done it before but not on a Camaro. The car's currently up on stands; new Muncie ready to go in, bellhousing is off; clutch and flywheel are off for balancing.

I anticipate reassembling flywheel on back, including the rear crossmember mount, freeing side mounts, jacking motor up and then dropping the pan, etc.

paul

 

I've been messing with Tri-Fives, Corvettes, Camaros and other Chevy products for more than 50 years. I've used an awful lot of vendors and suppliers as you can well imagine.

I ordered an M22 for our current project, the '69 Z28, from Riverside Gear in Eaton Rapids, Michigan. Bob Casaday is the owner. The transmission was produced and shipped on the schedule given me. It arrived in its crate and my son and I installed it easily. We wanted to hear its whine and the effect of the new 4.10 rear gear set on this 302's performance. The transmission shifted flawlessly, made the right kind of M22 noises.

But when we parked the car we noticed a significant leak. It was fresh gear lube. The case was leaking at the front.

We pulled the transmission and called Bob at Riverside Gear. He immediately ordered a pickup from my shop by UPS. We re-crated the trans for its shipment. UPS picked it up last Tuesday (3/26).

I received notification today that the repaired (case boring was not to spec at the countershaft) was in the hands of UPS and would be delivered to me on Friday (4/5).

Riverside Gear never hesitated to make good, never queried me about anything I may have done to the transmission. They said: "Box it up, we'll pick it up and fix it so you won't have any additional problems." They did.

I can recommend to the highest degree Riverside Gear if you have any kind of driveline need for which these folks provide parts or service, especially Muncie transmissions.

https://www.riversidegear.com/about-us

paul

Was the tilt wheel N33 factory option available to 1969 Z28 buyers? And was N34, the wood wheel available with the tilt column. It would seem from the download of options that the answer is yes, but I have not seen much evidence of tilt wheels in Z's.

Thank you.

This fresh engine is in our '69 X33D80 VIN#124379N658489. Heads are 186's dated Dec 1 '68 and Dec 2 '68.

Will consider swap out of block and heads for late May - early June (prior to 6/16 assembly) block and heads in similar condition.

Bear with me for a second:

I just replaced an off-brand distributor with an MSD 8360 Pro Billet (their ready-to-run version which does not require the box). In checking for voltage at the coil I found 12v at positive side of the coil with the ignition switch in RUN... and 9 volts at start...just the reverse of what should be in place for a points-style original distributor. The MSD needs 12v at RUN.

I haven't pulled the harness nor separated the wiring (yellow and wrapped white?) yet and am wondering how the previous owner could have wired this thing backwards.

As I intend to install an original 480 distributor in the very near future resolving this issue is important.

paul