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well, I am just a little after that guy... also a 10C build. vin N700664... Daytona Yellow to boot....

I saw basically the same thing in my car for years.... the body was twisted from high RPM launches. Driver's front comes up and pushes the passenger rear down. And then everything on the car twists... so other things don't look so out of alignment.

We took the whole back of the car apart... quarters, trunk floor, rear tail, wheel housings.... to repair rust. We put it back together straight... then dropped the trunk lid on... holy cow!... touched the sheetmetal on the drivers side while almost an inch up on the passenger side...Took some careful work to bend that piece back into shape.

Also, using a straight edge I found that passenger side A pillar had more bow in it than the drivers side.

The twist can be very subtle across the whole car...it can be hard to notice... when I used to look through the rear glass from way back of the car... I could see the rear package shelf was not parallel to the dash....

I did have a frame shop pull on the assembled car many years ago... it helped, but we could not pull enough to totally level the car.

one other big tip....when you install the new seal in the cap and block, push the seal flush with one side and measure how much it sticks up on the other side. There is a spec for this measurement....both on the cap and the block...(I think I have it in another posting).  most seals are TOO BIG out of the package and you have to file them down.

Being too big, they overcrush and distort when the cap is reassembled. Then it leaks... how do I know? 3 seals installed fresh from the package... 3 leaks... one installed and then measured and filed down as needed.... does not leak.

I also had issues with a 293 repro coil.... once the engine had some heat in it, if I put it in gear (auto trans), the engine died. Tried fiddling with the carb settings but nothing made any difference. Put the AC Delco service replacement coil back in... problem goes away....

Guess the 293 coil is just for show.....

I did replace my headliner and the new material was really darn close to the old but I cannot remember who made it...

For the sunvisors... mine were exactly like yours. The guy installing the headliner just replaced the stitching on the sunvisor without taking it apart....With the old sunvisors and the new headliner, you cannot tell them apart in the car now....It will look much more original if you can avoid taking the visors apart.....

RockAuto carries LED replacements.... just click on which bulb you want... still the best price I can find.

Here is the MCR article...

and here....

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/readers-ride-1969-camaro/

I replaced by internal bulbs with LED.... after my overhead light kept burning up the lens and housing... melted part of the headliner also.... scary... especially that it smelled like fire when I took it apart.... wires had started melting down.

The only real issue is that the color is slightly different.... but I feel WAY safer that my car is not going to burn down!... and I can leave the door open for more than 10 seconds....

All the rest of the exterior bulbs (and dash bulbs) are as original.

and here is where we were just 2 years ago....

Here are a few other pics.... to those who asked.

yep...never really done.... but really happy where it is.... just took 20 years to get there..... whole story in the magazine...(I will scan and post)

Had to work with PPG to get the yellow right... the local rep had never done Daytona Yellow... so there were a few test mixes that went back and forth with headquarters to get it right.... some people don't like yellow... but this yellow is really something... not mustard, not butter... just a really sharp yellow..... they did it right in 69....

After finishing my oh so long project early last year.... it feels like it was worth it to get my car in Muscle Car Review this month... not a feature but a Readers Rides...if you are a subscriber... you may already have this issue (with the yellow Dodge on the cover).

Worked hard on so many details, this site helped me out with so many questions to make sure I got it as right as I could.... if I was gonna do it, I was gonna do it right...

thanks to everyone here who provided insight (and opinions)

and this car was born WITHOUT a posi....a 3.07 open rear end.....still a Muscle Car....

If you get that trunk floor in through the opening, I'd love to know how... I had to replace the entire trunk pan when I did the body work on my car 2 years ago.... no way it was getting in...we tried every which way. Maybe just the bottom on the trunk, but not the entire pan.

Since we had some reason to, we also had to take off the quarters... boy was I nervous when I walked into the shop and saw the entire car gone from the base of rear glass....just a pair of frame rails....

Even the guys at Camaro Specialties told me that most people cut the floor pan in half to get it in....I wanted it in one piece....the quarters and tail panel had to come off...

The car never had a hitch... what it was originally attached to looked factory but I could be wrong....wish I had a pic... this is a low mile car that was drag raced a lot... not sure if that had anything to do with it.... sounds like I should just remove the hose...

There was a bracket spot welded to the underside of the trunk at one time with a fitting this hose connected to with a spring clamp..... I'll have to see what is under the hose.... guess this may have been someone's fix for something... car seems to have lived in PA and Syracuse NY for most of its life but my history is incomplete.

The rear end codes perfectly to the car so I am quite sure its original.... still has the original drums on it too....

After I re-assembled my car after a frame off resto... I found my heater core leaking... the inlet/outlet tubes got pushed around too much and leaked at the connection to the core. Even with the console in the car, I found it easier to drop the heater box from inside the car and remove the core. The only tricky part is the control cables attached to the box for the heater/defrost ducts....

I have never seen another car with a vent hose on the rear diff like mine.... It is the original 12 bolt... pic below.

The top of the vent hose attached to a fitting on the underside of the trunk. I sent the car off to the body shop as a roller with the rear end still attached. There we removed the rear suspension and put the body on a cart. I was hoping to just replace the lower part of the trunk but the rust was too bad and we did a total trunk pan replacement. I never documented what the vent was attached to! Now I cannot find anything in the AIM or in my past pics that shows it. I remember it being stretched when the rear end was lowered....

Anyone else have this and can document it?

My car is a 69 SS396.. 10C '69 build.

(I actually drove around all summer with the hose just hanging like that so its on pretty good...)