Messages

Not sure, but if you are experiencing trouble I switched over to an aftermarket Hurst back up light switch.  It was easy to install and works well.  I have a Saginaw 4 speed, but believe the same part will work with any hurst shifter

I still have the old Saginaw 4 speed with Hurst shifter running on a 355 with mild modifications.  The trans is worn out, and I'm considering switching to a M20.  Anyone know if it is a simple swap will only require a new Speedo cable and shift linkage?  I'm running 355 rear 12 bolt.
Thanks

Thanks, I was wondering about the fuell cap.  When I restored it I bought an aftermarket twist on cap, which never aligns with the SS logo vertical. 

I have a 67 which has the ignition on the dash.  I think the 68 is on the column?  ANy rate, I had a similar problem after I replaced the steering wheel.  So assuming your horn works after testing by connecting to your battery, I installed an auxiliary horn button on the bottom of my dash. 

I also noticed the connectors on the horn in the grill seem to fit loose.  MMay want to check them for tight fit or corrosion.  Did you check your fuse?  I've also experienced issues with a good fuse, but very slight rust forms on the terminals.  Just clean by lightly sanding with Emory cloth then apply some dialetrect grease to protect from future corrosion.

Good luck

My 67 has the original 6 cal fuller line, no vent.
When I'm driving I get a gas smell.  Don't notice it when
The car is parked.  Does anyone know where that
Fuel tank vents at?

My restored 67 has power brakes with an aftermarket (Bendix?) booster, drum rear disc front.  I replaced the leaking master cylinder (several times) with a replacement unit that is for front disc brakes.  However, the brakes work, but drive like there is no power assist. The power brakes worked perfect with the old master cylinder, so I have no reason to suspect the booster is failing.   I also have a proportioning valve.

Anyone have an idea how to fix this???

thx

THanks for the info.  I was able to reach up under the dash and could not locate a wire attached to the back of the lighter.  This is probably an aftermarket wiring harness.  Does the retainer sleeve on the inside of the dash unscrew from the inside?  I did try to turn it, but it would not move, although I didn't try very hard because I didn't want to break something.  I did try twisting the bezel on the dash side, managed to scratch it up.  It did turn, but nothing came loose.

Will chek the AIM also

thx

My cig lighter stopped working.  I checked all my fuses, which seem good.  Anyone know which fuse runs the lighter, I could not find a single fuse labeled lighter?  I checked the AIM, It shows the bezel with a torques spec, so I assumed you could just unscrew the bezel and remove the assembly by pulling it forward into the drivers compartment.  However, my bezel turns, but does not unscrew.

Is there a clip or something up inside the dash? 

Anyone have success removing the lighter?

Thanks
Jon

I need to drop the pan on my 67 sm block.  THe service manual says to unbolt the 2 engine mount bolts, lift the engine from the pan with a floor jack, then insert two, 2X4 blocks between the motor mount sections.  Did that, but does not appear to provide enough clearance between the crossmember.  I have the bell housing removed also.  Does anyone know how low the main caps extend below the bottom of the block into the oil pan?

Appreciate any suggestions.
 

I need to replace my door latch and locking mechanism and window regulator.  Does anyone know where to find a parts diagram or instructions?

Thanks
The number on the front of the engine is 12K523985
I was trying to find out if its a 2 or 4 bolt main
I figured it was early 70s with the hei dist

I have a later 350 installed in my 67.  Have not had any luck decoding the numbers, wonder if anyone can help.
Front passenger side under the head has 12K523985 
On the rear of the block, where the bell housing attaches under the intake I see 9970010.

Anyone ever run across these numbers?

Thanks for the info about the 2.52 muncie.  I will wait to replace the saginaw until it dies, but first priority is to replace the stock 10 bolt.  What is the formula and data you use to come up with the overall ratio?
Thanks

i know the Saginaw trains is not recommended for higher hp engines, but does anyone know of a shop that can rebuild them to to make them stronger or upgrade?  I actually like the wider gear ratio.  I still have the stock 10 bolt with 3:08 gears, but plan to switch to a moser 12 bolt with 3:55.  I'm concerned about having too low of a 1st gear if I went with a m21 etc.

I just ordered the hurst universal switch that mounts on the shifter under the 4th gear stop bolt
.  Will let you know how that works if interested