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Three of the teeth wore out and when rolling it to the top, it makes a lot of noise and bounces a bit. I thought of welding it but the piece is harden steel. I don't think it will hold

Hello everyone- my driverside power window regulator finally gave out. Does anyone rebuilt window regulators? They seem to be hard to find.  If no one does, can you recommend a regulator that will bolt up in the factory power window holes?

Thanks,

Jerry

Thank you very much. I appreciate it.

Jerry

Hello everyone- I have spent a couple days trying to determine what is the correct starter for my 1967 SS with Powerglide. I have seen the following part numbers:

1108338
1107496
1107320

Which one is correct and why?  I have been getting different numbers all over the place.


Thank you very much. I appreciate the help.

Jerry

Does anyone know of a tool that can be purchased to put the new repop rivits on?

Forgot to mention, they buy it from Auto City Classic and sell it for a higher price. They are also the only company, other than Pilkington who owns the rights, to do date coding.

ATI is the only American company I know of which is where Pilkington gets it from. One other company in Ohio does too but has not done a run in a while. That company is called Spec-Temp DOT 243.

If you are going to get overseas glass Auto City Classic is the best place. Many of the other vendors buy glass from them and resell it.

I wanted to share my experience with the group with the hopes of saving members time, money, and spare you from unnecessary frustration.  I have been to hell and back with trying to find good quality date coded glass.  After being ripped off and wasting a lot of time and money, I have learned that you can get American made repop glass from Pilkington Classic, but you have to specifically ask for it.  They get their American made glass from Auto Temp Inc (ATI) in Ohio (DOT 509).  The glass is excellent and doesn't have waves and excessive tempering marks.  It is worth the money. The date coding is great too.  However, if you don't specifically ask for it you can get some overseas glass from them. They sometimes get overseas glass when ATI is on back order.  

Most overseas glass is wavy and has severe tempering marks.  This is what is sold by many of the other vendors (DOT 516).  In all honesty, if you are not building a concourse car or a nut and bolt restoration, the overseas stuff will probably be just fine, but if you are looking for excellent glass that is close to original- stick with Pilkington Classic and specifically ask for Auto Temp Inc Glass (ATI) (DOT 509).

myred67-can you confirm if the ones you got from Hearbeatcity were PUI or from a different manufacture?

Dave- I sent you an e-mail.  Give me a call and I will share some information for you.  Doing it yourself is always an option too.  Here is a link to a guy who can sell you a kit.

 http://www.fordscript.com/carleton_glass/products.html

Thanks,

Jerry

Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it.

Hello everyone- I am nearing the end of my restoration and I am getting ready to get the A/C finalized.  I had the A6 compressor rebuilt, the POA rebuilt, the Dryer cut and rebuilt and the condenser and evaporator flushed. The system is clean.  I am going to be using R12 again-quite expensive.  Here is my question:

I am torn on whether to use the original style worm gear clamps or have the pressure fittings put on.  I am going for a concourse restoration but I also want the A/C to work.  Has anyone had experience with the original clamps on todays A/C hoses? I understand the hoses, with the nylon inside, leak over time with the worm clamps.

I appreciate any advice the group can provide.

Thanks,

Jerry   

Thanks for the reply. The Dec 66 one is tue one with the spring on the throttle plate. The one with the smaller spring ( hidden behind the bracket) is the Nov 66. My car was built the fourth week of Jan. 01D. A lot of the parts on my engine, dist etc are december parts.

Glad I posted the thread.

Jerry

Thanks. The carbs were built a month apart.  The first one is L66 (Nov 66) and the second is M66 (Dec.66)

Thanks,

Jerry

Here you go.  The first is a picture of the other side of the first carb and the second is of the latter.  Also, another question- are they both missing the vacuum tube that is affixed directly underneath the canceling cam (small hole) or did some come without a tube (similar to 7027202).  Thank you