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[Photos 1040-1043]

Photos 1040-1043 - last update for today.  Another old school mod is to chamfer opposite edges of the thrust bearing to held feed the thrust face with oil.  I have seen both ways, either only doing half of the bearing sides opposite one another (which is how I approached it) and the other doing the entire bearing edge.  I can't say one is better than the other but the halves is the direction I chose.  Is there proof it actually helps?  Not sure but I figured it wasn't going to hurt.

[Photos 1038-1039]

Photos 1038-1039 - as you may or may not have noticed but there is a process error with this block.  1st main cradle piling hole is off center to the bearing location.  And no it wasn't the bearing as I tried them all and the rest landed perfectly.  So only thing to do with modify the bearing to allow proper piling of the journal.  And before anyone mentions it, yes I cleaned up the edges of the bearing after opening it up.  Photo was during mock-up and prior to clean up

[Photos 1034-1035]

Photos 1034-1035 - I showed the air Chuck fittings but you need to tap the cast holes in the lifter valley.  This will still allow venting and force oil towards the the timing chain/gears and the rear of the block.

Photos 1036-1037 - ordered Kings Racing coated main bearings, ARP head and main studs and of course assembly lube along with a test fit of the bearings.

[Photos 1030 - 1033]

Photos 1030 - 1033 - Next was to do some old school block mods to help with oil shedding.  Meaning the return oil from the top end to divert the direction so that is goes towards the front and rear of the block and back to the oil pan.  First you will see a hole added to allow oil to go straight into the oil pan on the rear of the block vs rolling all the oil over the edge of the casting causing oil to fall on the crank counter weights and ultimately slowing down rotational speed.  The other are the cast holes that would also allow oil to fall down onto the rotating assembly and again slowing down rotational speed.

[Photos 1026 - 1027]

Appreciate the replies.  As I mentioned I have been busy with life, career upgrades and working on trying to manage land improvements on a property in the woods.  Back to the car stuff..

BTW I am liking the updated version of the forum.  Makes uploading and editing much easier and more intuitive.

Photos 1026 - 1027 - 1969 '010 block.  This was an engine that had previously been restamped and I have since X'd out the stamping to save another person in the future to know this stamping isn't original but most would realize but I could not falsely misrepresent something without disclosing it first.  This is a 4.030" bore 4 bolt block as the starting point of the build.

Photos 1028 - 1029 - Stock 1178 forged crank that has been balanced and oil holes chamfered.


More to come when I have another free minute.

Thanks for asking. I'm still alive just busy with life.  Not much in the way of progress.  I did finish the shortblock build over the weekend.  When I have time I'll post updates.  Here's a photo just for grins.

Another observation.  The fenders have had some paint work done on them.  Back in 2001 the pinstripes did not touch at the edge of the fender near door.  Now they do.

My father restored this car in the early 90's.  As Bill mentioned it was originally a L48/M20 car.  Original diff. Pretty sure it was a 3.31 posi.  Motor and trans long gone but was originally a manual car.

Photos before resto 1990.  You can see the sb a/c.    Also no paperwork or POP with the car at the time.  Also paperwork I have show the car sold in Mar of '70 from Gene Merollis in Garden City and made its way to TN in '72 where it stayed through at least the mid 2000's.


Same car that was in the Motor Trend Musclecar Archives video from 1997.

[Ex. Below:]

There was 4 ways to buy a 1968 Z/28.

Z28  400.25 base
Z28-2 479.25 air plenum
Z28-3 779.40 headers
Z28-4 858.40 Both of above

It's my understanding that the bottom 3 were not available for the entire year.
It's also my understanding that that these pieces were furnished loosely.
Since all 1968 Z/28 came with smog, it was up to the owner to install them. Both affected the smog system.

Somebody can correct me if my information isn't correct.....Joe

That is correct.  After Jan. 68 those options were not available.  So only Aug - Dec 67 would have had those option opportunities.  Dealer installed air plenum and most were done with drills and saws. 

Ex. Below:

Glad to see the forum back up and running.

...

Only way to know is if you post a photo of your paperwork and of your car.  Or email it to someone and they can post it for you.

cook_dw@hotmail.com   -   cook_dw"at"hotmail.com

FYI, I have made a few posts on a couple of Facebook groups (I know..  I'm not a fan but I want to offer these hoses to those that might be interested).  So if you are interested look for posts in All Chevy Muscle Swap Meet, 67 L78 Camaro 4K cars only, & more.

Updated hoses with what is a more robust dye for the stamp.

Chick has photos of the door jambs as he sent them to me but now I can not locate where I placed them..  Lost in a photo dumb on my end.