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I assume your commenting on my post...if so, some 67's and all 68's & 69's.

Maybe its just me but when I hear the term; "Period Correct" or plain old "Correct" referencing one of these engines, a major red flag goes up in my book. Most people that have a numbers matching block go out of their way to let prospective buyers know its a "Numbers Matching Block/Drivetrain". But that's just me...everyone has their own opinion/red flag indicators and this is mine. I don't expect everyone to agree. Again, just one guys opinion...

To me, "Period Correct", "Correct" or "Numbers Matching Block/Drivetrain" all mean the same thing - Not original. The phrase I look for is "Born with Engine/Trans./Rear". There's no mistaking what that means.

[PAD]

Be sure to take a source of artificial light (flash light or drop cord). The engine pad is difficult to photograph with all the stuff in the way and an artificial light source at just the right angle will help. Hopefully the owner will let you remove the generator & bracket. The idea is to get as clear a pic of the PAD as possible.

As for the Tranny & Axle. You will probably need to jack the car up. Again, artificial light at just the right angle will help.

Also, bring some lacquer thinner and a rag. The engine pad MUST be free of paint in order to give opinions on originality.

Jim

[VERY BAD]

In the Corvette world, he has a VERY BAD reputation.

Jim

I don't need to ask Al G. about engine pads. I feel very confident in that area. You obviously aren't a NCRS member because if you were, you would know they have written many articles about them including pictures in their publication "The Corvette Restorer". There are also a ton of threads on the NCRS forum where people show pads, trim tags, etc. and members respond not only with their opinions, but with the reasons for that opinion as well as examples to compare it to. No secrets in the Corvette world. The Camaro world should follow suit.

[I'll]

Thanks for the reply John. I disagree about fake tags not being an issue on Corvettes. Yes, they are easy to spot if you know what to look for and yes, you'll be disqualified if you have it judged at a NCRS event. Very few actually have their cars judged and you wouldn't find out that the NCRS thinks it's a fake unless you bought the car and then tried to have it judged. I've been a NCRS member for over 30 years. That being said, why are they easy to spot, because the info. is common knowledge among the enthusiasts. However, there are still many that buy fake Corvettes because they aren't educated and that's what I'm trying get across here. If the info. isn't out, people will continue to buy fake cars and get ripped off.
Fortunately, I've received several e-mails from people here giving me very good info. and examples of what to look for and what to avoid. That's what I wanted in order to make an informed decision should I buy a car. I'm not looking for "Post it here and I'll tell you if it's real or not". Again, without the facts to back it up, it's nothing more than one persons opinion. It's a shame that your members feel they have to sneak around to get the info. out but I'm thankful they had the ballz to step up to the plate.

Thanks for the info. That's the kind of info. that needs to be out there for all of us to benefit from. No need to keep secrets.
To all of those that e-mailed me, thanks for the info.

We don't give details so as not to help the people making these tags.

That's pretty standard for this board. Maybe you can find other information on the internet but it doesn't change the fact that that tag is a reproduction.

That car would be at least twice that price if it was real so that should be a hint also.

I guess I don't understand the stance of the Camaro group. Having owned/restored many numbers matching solid axle and mid year Corvettes (including rare BB cars) that have sold for $150K+, I know what to look for regarding them. In fact, if you post any piece of data regarding any one of them, you'll not only get "opinions" but you'll get WHY it is correct or not. NO SECRETS. To come here and ask a question and have someone give their OPINION without the facts to back it up means absolutely nothing. The"Trust me, I know everything" attitude is B.S.
JohnZ is on all the Corvette sites as well as here and doesn't seem to hide behind some "secrecy certain". He gives FACTS about them. Maybe that attitude should spread to the others here.
Maybe I'll stick to Corvettes, 66-67 L-79 Novas and 70 LS-6 Chevelles and forget about a Z-28. Those folks are more than willing to share information. 

Why the secrecy? This kind of info. is available all over the internet regarding Corvette tags. I compared the above tag to the ones in Jerry's book and they look identical.

What are the issues with the tag? I need to know what to look for. Thanks.

Go look for a REAL BLACK RS/Z28 and then you will get an idea of the number of highend collectors who have been taken for a RIDE!!! The number of clones has actually hurt the price of the real ones.

Is this one a fake? http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/ctd/2698741718.html

I've been looking for a 69 Z-28 for quite a while. In the last few months, I've answered several ads for 100% original, documented cars. However, when I request a picture of the engine pad and the data plate, all communications stop immediately. I can only assume that these cars were frauds. There are more fake Z-28's out there than there are fake big block Corvettes. Oh well, I suppose part of the fun is in the hunt but this is getting frustrating.
I recently found the perfect car but when I tried to buy it, the "seller" would only go through E-Bay and have the car shipped to me. I told him "I'll be there tomorrow morning with a car trailer and CASH". He refused my offer.

Jim