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Don't think that is correct, but only know about the 67's, which have cutouts around said CS's. How could you remove said mat, etc., when they are bolted down (for cleaning purposes and so on)?

Just a question? But could you not transfer the reservoir from the reman to your original pump if it was functioning properly?

Not sure on '69 but 67/ 68 had a plastic tube covering the push rod (going into the pedal assy.) located between the booster and firewall, in between the mounting brkt for the booster. FWIW

My original spacer looks like the one in your first post (much beefier), and it to is flush with the fan blade when assembled. I also have the reinforcement plate that is installed behind the pulley - forgot to mention mine is also an L30.

FWIW, I own an early production 67 (10B, Los. production) Convertible, and the 327 in it has the spacer you show, but the fan is not as shown at CRG. My fan does not have the continuous ridges, and they stop short of the pilot hole as your second picture shows. The fan appears to be the original one that came with the car, but as usual, things could have been replaced over its "life". Just an old guy talking, but I seem to remember that style fan on earlier production vehicles.

Sorry, My reply was to Opium Motors prior post, I was aware you had changed the M/C several times. Again, sorry I got off track there.

Most likely due to the RPV's used at the rears, on drum disc applications. FWIW

Not laughing, as I am older than that, just don't know how I got here.

Glad to hear your issue has been corrected, as Safety is always first and foremost. I did wonder if you ever verified the application pressures at both front wheels (I didn't see mention of the pressures). If I had known they were the same i would have suggested having both rotors re machined and the pads burnished in to see if any changes were made. At any rate, glad your problem has been solved.

PM sent.

The two upper screws actually go through the backside of the cowl panel, just below the defroster outlets in the dash, while the lower attachment area is fastened through the firewall insulation mat, going through the actual cowl with the screw - hope this helps. BTW this must be installed prior to just about anything else under the dash, with the exception of the insulation mat. Forgot to mention, my original mat has a cutout in it for the bottom screw / mounting bracket of the duct assy.(I don't see this hole on a repo mat). My car has standard heater - no AC. PM me if you need pics of the actual parts, etc. my email is in my profile.

As per the AIM, UPC1, sheet A7, page 30, the duct fastens to the dash (view A), but I will check on my 67 as it's apart, and get back to you. Sorry, couldn't find any pics, but will look at the actual parts, screws, etc.

67 RS Ragtop in old and new forum

I have found that often the exhaust holes for the crossover slot are somewhat eaten up by the exhaust and not round, so the plugs do not perform a true seal. This is why I use a tap with grease on it (when working on an assembled engine) to keep most of the filings from entering the intakes exhaust ports. I simply tap and install a pipe plug, then reinstall the carb with the afore mentioned correct gaskets. Others have also welded them shut, or blocked off the ports at the intake gaskets (when the intake was off or removed). It's your car, hence, your choice. JM2C Timing is yet another possible contributing heat factor.

JMO make sure your exhausts heat riser valve is not stuck in the closed position, and it opens fully when at operating temps (if you are still running one). One other issue that was supposedly recalled many years ago due to fire issues, was blocking off the exhaust passages at the intake below the carb. - simply remove carb., tap the ports and install pipe plugs, reinstall carb., etc..