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We see this at times in the Mopar world, the seller may know the own of the car and is holding the block ransom.

Thank you, I will read up on that tonight.

Forgive my ignorance but remember I'm mainly a Mopar guy. I was talking to one of my techs about his Z/28 that he has had since 77 and I got some pictures of the data and VIn and helped him decode it. On a Mopar the VIN is on the fender tag on 69 and up cars and only the Order Number (similar to GM) is on the tag for 68 and back. The numbers on the body are the Order number as well 68 and back, VIN on 69 and up. The build sheet is the ony way to tie a tag and body to a VIN on the 68s and back. How do you tie the tag to a VIN on a 69 Camaro? Does  it vary on other years?

Thanks in advance, Kevin

Thanks for the info, it's a Norwood car for the record.

Thanks again.

I went and looked at one last night and I didn't find the numbers, any numbers, where I thought they should be so I decided I might be wrong. I believe there is one in the firewall below the fan motor that cant be seen with the fender on and I thought one on the passenger side of the cowl under the vent to the inside of the joint. So what is the truth?

I did look for the page that I have referenced before that had this kind of info on it but couldn't find it.

Thanks in advance, Kevin

Thank you for the input folks. like I said no real interest in the car but anytime a decent car is offered to me I have to consider it and at least make sure it's not a really rare car or a steal. I have a high percentage of the parts I need for my 69 collected up so I should start on it in the next car or two.

Muncie is my assumption, I can double check if I look at the car.

Good morning all,

As my user name indicates I'm a Mopar guy, I haven't been around in a awhile but some may remember me. Anyway I have a 69 RS that I think we determined was not a RS/SS sometime back. I have been offered a 67 RS for what seems like decent money but just not as up on prices to make an informed decision. I guess to be clear I'm not really that interested in the car so this is more for my education, if anyone is interested in the car I have some pictures I would share. My knowledge of the car starts when I was eating lunch in a diner in Boyertown, PA with one of my service managers and a lady overheard the conversations and spoke up "I have this car for sale". Now that can always be interesting so I of course explored further. I guess she bought it at Carlisle earlier in the year and decided old car ownership isn't for her. Here is what I know about the car:

67 rs
327/275 horse
muncie
12 bolt (pretty sure from the picture but no dead on clear picture)
Originally marina blue with blue gut (now BUrgundy with black deluxe - hence the question about color change)
Has the data tag but attached with the wrong rivots (clearly a flag to check body numbers)
Reported 26k on the clock (her uninformed stance is the title doesn't say exempt so it must be correct )
"Restored", looks very presentable in the pictures but has most know personal inspection will tell the truth about the build
It's wearing turque thrust in a comfortable size
Ask is $27k

So my question is how does color change hurt an early Camaro, in the Mopar world it can be death to the top money. With that said, it really doesn't matter on low level cars such as slant 6 or 318 cars (no offense to anyone), clones or street cars, they sale on more curb appeal than numbers. The higher level or elite car prices can actually suffer to the level of the cost of a teardown and repaint which now a days can render a car valueless in some eyes. In some cases curb appeal has less significance than correctness, not saying whether it's right or not just stating a fact as I understand it. If nothing more if will narrow the pool of potential buyers so it reduces demand, in the end though it only takes one person hot for it for it to sale and get good money. I personally am not a complete slave to the thought but return cars to there original color when doing them and although I wouldn't not buy a color change car, I would use it as leverage and would pay significantly under value or I would walk. So how does it effect early Camaros and maybe specifically this car? I've been told by a friend that buys and sales muscle cars (predominently Chevys) that this is a $20-30k car depending on the lever of restoration and of course verifying that it is not a re-body (another death in the Mopar world, not sure how much Chevy people care), but I never really got an answer on the color change question.

Happy Thanksgiving to all, I help you spend the day with family and friends and get plenty to eat. We all have much to be thankful for even though we often forget.

Have a great day!

Not to hi-jack but to post info, the TA/AAR guru chimed in on a post with the question on moparts, 154 column shift AARs are known/documented and 85 of them are bench seats. Other than that it is just percentages as mentioned earlier.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=7465902&an=0&page=0&gonew=1#UNREAD

I agree T-model66..  appears to be an extremely well-preserved original car, which is also very *rare*.. YES,,  Camaros with bench seats are rare... 
a bench seat in any of the pony cars are rare; I didn't even know a bench seat was an option in those cars until long after they were new.. and I've only seen a handful in my lifetime since. 
Note:  I assisted a good friend with restoration of a '70 AAR Cuda, with bench seat and column shift Auto ..  How rare do you reckon that is? 

They (bench AARs) are rare but I have seen a few, of course I frequent places where you would see them. I'll try to dig up a number, Chrysler didn't keep good record of options just percentages, 15% of Cudas were Sassy Grass Green (example, not accurate) but not necessarily 15% of AARs were that color. I show a bench seat column shift Mustang recently in PA and I actually saw a newer bench seat column shift Avalon come into the dealership the other day for service, this (the Avalon) is a case where rare doesn't equal valuable.

Where in Florida? If it is near me I can have a shop I trust test them and then package and ship them for you. I'm in the Tallahassee area, but am Flying to Philly for 2 weeks in the am.

At the cost of fuel, even down right now, seems you could have the checked and shipped MUCH cheaper. Of course you don't get the fun of the road trip and seeing other stuff the guy may have in the corner. I had a set shipped from NJ to Fl for $57 last year.

Welcome to the forum.

Very nice 67 and I love the Nova.

A restamp is a restamp. If I have follow a few things correctly then a factory restamp is a ground off incorrect stamp and restamped not a DECK and restamp, just the pad is ground off. Not a favorable situation but if verified/documented it is what it is. As far as I decked it and stamp it back exactly as it was..............................right. Only with time stamped photography (which can be faked to a degree) would I even begin to buy that line. "Well why would I lie?" about 10,000 reasons. Not saying the seller isn't telling the truth, just cant be 100% sure, much less the next guy and the next, "well the guy I bought it from said he stamped it back exactly". Unfornately too much money riding on it to take a chance. If you like a car and like a price then buy it, if you are paying a premium for things like options, trim levels and number then verify them BEYOND ANY question.

Kinda like an engine or tranny you cant see work/check the vituals/inspect, just assume it's a core and pay accordingly.  

Back in the day and still currently for normal blocks we had al kinds of machine work done to prep a bloick for a build. Many/most of the times it included decking the block, we gave no thought to number what so ever we were just worried about the build and getting everything perfect. There are cases where we would deck it enough to raise the compression and it would be enough that you had to mill the 2 parts of the block the intake sits on cause it wouldn't allow the intake to seal against the head. During this time no doubt many rare blocks got there numbers shaved and now there is no way to identify there origin. As with anything when less scrupulous individuals see an opportunity to make an easy dime they will, so it will be a part of the hobby forever. It's a shame that it matters to the point of fraud but it is oen of the things that separates different levels of cars.