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Superstat from Napa Auto Parts AND made in the USA! Napa had no problem with the exchange...just one of those things.

Good question. I did take the time to test the new one with the boiling water method and it did open up. I had to test the one I took out just to see and it failed to open.

Well just for fun I put in another new thermostat and everything is working as it should be. Amazing but true...thanks again.

They are easy to mash on. Certainly not ruling anything out, just think it odd that the water pump, thermostat and radiator were functioning fine prior to changing coolant and now one of those parts is not functioning.

Being at a loss I did check the thermostat and it was in correctly. There's no indication my old thermostat was bad as the car ran fine prior to changing the coolant. I bought a new one thinking that somehow the old one was bad (however changing the coolant doesn't make a thermostat go bad in my experience). So at this point, it's hard to believe both the old thermostat and the new one are both bad, but stranger things have happened. I will take the new thermostat out and run a test and update the post. Thanks for all of the assistance.

No, the water is not circulating in the radiator. I noted today that when the engine gets to running temp, the top radiator hose is cold and the bottom hose is hot. The water in the radiator remains cold.

Thanks Mike, with the cap on or off?

I filled the block through the thermostat opening and put in a new thermostat since I was there. When I start the vehicle and it gets to operating temp, the engine starts to overheat and the radiator is cold. The radiator was gone through prior to restoring the car and along with the water pump has few miles on it. The thermostat is new? Could it be trapped air in the system? If so, what's the best way to bleed it?

I have not. I was thinking water needed to get into the block but wasn't convinced I could start the motor with no coolant in the block. As I understand you, I can start the motor and fill the radiator as the coolant goes into the block as the level will go down?

I drained the coolant (SB 350) by opening the peacock and removing engine block bolts. Drained about three gallons. When refilling, less than one gallon brought the radiator to full. What am I missing 

I havn't done that yet, but I will. When I put it back together, I assume the shifter gets bolted into place and then the stick gets put back in from the top?

Yes all linkage is removed, and I want to go down and out with it. Seems to be getting hung up on the mounting bracket and maybe the transmission. If I can finagle it out I will, just wanted to see if someone has had the experience and knows what needs to be done.

I understand that. I have it unbolted and ready to remove but it's getting hung up. Will it come all the way out if I work with it, or does something else (e.g. transmission) need to be removed first. Thanks.

I'm having a problem removing the shifter. Can the shifter be removed with the transmission in place? Does the shifter mounting bracket need to be removed?

Great, thanks Ed!