Messages

Quite honestly,  it might not even be rubber adhesive. I was not the one who installed the rubber so it is difficult to know what actually occurred and what the stain consist of.   I just am assuming it is adhesive because it is in the form of a very thing layer colorization of something that looks like a small drip just underneath the rubber molding area.  The stain is on the upper edge of the drivers side window glass.

I have tried lacquer thinner.  It is the most difficult stain to take off.  And it is glass I am dealing with which can easily scratch.   I will need something much stronger than that and yet without damaging the glass.  Thanks for the quick response.

I got some rubber molding adhesive on the drivers side window and now cannot take it off. I do not want to scratch it with anything unknown because it is a numbers matching window. The hardened drip has been reduced to a very thin layer by applying Goo Off and various other adhesive removers. Yet, ultimately, what remains of the stain, is still there and cannot be wiped off. Even after many attempts. Any advice on what solvent to use without damaging the glass. And yes, I have carefully tried, on several attempts a razor blade with no success. Thanks in advance.
__________________

and also from Team Chevelle forum, Rustynutznrods writes:....

"Eastwood makes a Hotcoat Argent Silver base (part # 10102). The issue with silver powder coating is that they all require a clear topcoat. It's not a bad solution if you're not concerned with originality. But it's obvious to the experienced eye that the finish is not original.

We've done a lot of wheels in satin black powder coat with the correct Argent Silver sprayed on the wheel face. The paint codes are DuPont 9692L or Ditzler DQE-8568. "

Where the inside of the wheels originally black?

This is very helpful.  Thank you for the prompt response.

So can the wheel face be sand blasted and then masked to later spray paint the Argent Silver?  I ask this because the powder coat company is saying that masking involves heating issues and can involve overspray.  This is not too much of a concern for me if it can be done.  It was also mentioned that powder coating does not need to involve the clear topcoat.  Is this what gives the wheel that lasting protection from such elements as rust?

This is very helpful.  Thank you for the prompt response.

Does anyone have the company or code number for the GM silver that goes on the Rally wheels?  I want to get them powder coated. and the powder coat company I went to is asking me if it is, for example, Cardinal or some other.  Thank you.

Here is another angle of the wheel.  The center looks blue.  But, then again, might of faded throughout the years. 

Anyone with an N30 also have the black accents on the T-shaped horn shroud?  Mine is an Dec 67 build which should have the black accents but my pictures of the wheel before restoration appears to look solid blue with no black accents like a late 68 build shoud have.  Could it be that the black paint faded with the many years out in the sun?   Sorry about the size.  I'm having a lot of trouble with the new version of photobucket.




Below is the link that shows the picture of the one from CRG.

http://www.camaros.org/images/swheel/sw_68N30early.jpg

I managed to remove my original glove box without damaging it.... what's the issue?

Forgot to mention, that the one already installed has a broken clip from the first time the repop was installed.

I got it done at Just Dashes.   You can google and go to there website.  It will show you a video of the process.   The cost will vary and it is not cheap if you include shipping.  It cost me $100 and that was with a discount and taking it in myself.  But, now, I won't have to massage the repop handle into the bezels or get that peeling and cracking that I got from the sprayed on can paint.  I managed to successfully install the handle and bezels.  However, one of the three clips at the bottom of the cardboard glove box torn off as I was screwing the door back in.  So I am waiting for another weekend to get the new box in.  A word of invaluable advise, if you want to avoid sweating bullets.   Make sure you mask around the gapping between the console and the glove box door.  It is real easy to scratch the metal either uninstalling or installing it.

Hello,

Just restored the original grab handle through a process called Thermo-vacuum molding on my 68.  The bezels are original and it has a lot better fit than OER.  And, the paint won't crack or peel in the future.  My question is, on the installation.  How difficult is it to install.  I know that the cardboard glove box assembly will not be salvageable but I can get a new OER one.  Is it difficult to get in there and remove the OER one I have on now and how do you install the grab handle and glove box assembly?  Any help is appreciated.

After examining my steering wheel, it was determined that it has too many hair line cracks.  Not the wider and larger cracks, but thinner cracks as wide as a hair.  The wheel can be restored but it would need to be done completely smoothed out.  Not correct and not what I want.  The after market wheels that claim deluxe N30 are smooth throughout and do not have the grooves on the bottom half. So I managed to find a used, original N30 with minimal hair line cracks.  Aside from three large cracks, there are three hair line cracks on the back of the wheel.  So, now it's up to the restorer to determine if the grooves can remain without making the whole thing looking entirely smooth.  Does anyone have similar problems with the thinner hair line cracks and does anybody know what I mean about leaving in place the grooves on the lower half of the wheel after the restoration?

Also, I will be using my original horn housing and found that when I removed the three screws behind it, the two wires that come from the wheel and go to the horn housing are sort of riveted on and cannot be unscrewed.  In this case, is my only option to cut the two wires and later splice them back together during reconstruction?

I am planning on sending it to a guy in Wisconsin.  He is listed on the Chevrolet Generator & Distributor and is very detailed in finding out what I want.  I spent about 45 minutes on the phone with him today and got a lot of information from him.  That says a lot.  Basically, he can provide a pristine quality job but only if he can smooth out the steering wheel instead of leaving it with the grooves.  Yet, I want a correct restoration since it is a fairly rare steering wheel.  So we concluded that a least he can restore the center cover and keep a leather wrap around the wheel.  I am going to do a search to see if I can possibly do the job myself.  Does anyone have a link on a do-it-yourself restoration?  I appreciate your help and sharing your information  Ed & Dave. 

I have cracks on my early 68 steering wheel.  It is an N30 with the black accents.  I would like to remove it and send it to restoration.  I have the assembly and chassis manuals but have not been able to find any procedure in properly removing and fitting it back on.  I am thinking of contacting the restoration shop as an option.  Any help would be appreciated.