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Or possibly lemon juice and then fire to recreate those types of ageing properties.

Very nice car indeed. I guess memory has started to fade a bit, reading that the M-22 cost $6.10 more than the 396/375.

Thanks to everyone who participated in helping put this together. And a special Thanks to Bryon for spending the time to put it all together.

It is sad to hear this. As we all are getting older, so are the true pioneers who are the foundation of many of our interest/hobbies/jobs. We are loosing so much when they pass on. Knowledge forgotten. Glad to hear the daughter is willing to take over. Prayers to the Kelsey family.

Bryon, this is something everyone on this forum, along with any social media actually, should read or at least think about. It seems as though it is getting worse. I guess it's possibly the stressed out world we now live in. As the old wise man said, walk in the shoes of another to understand where they're standing. It's like people driving. They have no control in their life until they get behind a wheel, then all bets are off.

The single traction bar (radius rod) will be on the passenger side. And someone on here (or on camaros.net / Team Camaro ) was looking to buy a trailer hitch like in the photos if your not planning on keeping it.

Somebody is looking at the Trim location and thinks that the Z after the 717 means it's a Z/28, I would imagine. That is the only Z (anything) this car ever had, providing it is the matching cowl tag.

Good to hear. Glad you are headed back in the right direction. Keep us posted. Always good to see another "ole gal" come back to life!

Alright.  Thanks for the response.  I've assembled other engines just using plastigage and they're still running.  What - me worry? said Alfred E. Neuman.

Now, That's just MAD :-)

Other than the engine internals that are being worked on there isn't anything else left other than the external bolt on's. Just try to keep the original bolts throughout the build along with the build, other than ones that might be of integral strength issues. (AMD is a good source for those) Label everything you take off, take notes and take pictures of how the were originally installed. Try to keep them together in specific groups while and after cleaning them. It will save you time when you get ready to put things back together. Now would also be a good time to look at your rubber hoses, mounting hardware (clips, brackets, etc.) and such to see if they are still useable and if not get the proper replacements with originality in mind. That's what comes off the top of my head. Others might have more suggestions that I haven't thought of as of yet.

Edit: If the carb needs any cleaning or work along with the tank, fuel lines, it would be a good time to address these while the engine is out of the way along with cleaning the engine bay and other areas that might need a refreshing. Just plan it smart and make it easy on yourself, in other words.

It was made for back seat drivers. My AAW console wiring was just right in lenght.

Whoever ends up doing the machine work on your engine, make sure they understand that it is of great importance that the factory numbers and broach marks are left untouched. It will ruin the originality if they do so and you will take a big hit on the cars value. Get it in writing if you can. It's that important.

The car is most valuable with the drivetrain it left the factory with and you have that. Now you have two options. Sell it with the existing drivetrain and offer the original for added cash, or sell it with the original drivetrain and then sell the other drivetrain you obtained in the mid 70's to them or someone else looking for a factory bore 302 and transmission. I would wait on others with more expertise to help guide you along, but DO NOT LET IT GO FOR CHEAP. You have a very desirable car and don't let anyone tell you differently. And as far as rebuilding the original engine. I wouldn't. Let the buyer be out that expense and that way if the numbers somehow gets ground off, then it's on them and you won't have to deal with lowball offers just because of it. Good luck and hate to see you get read of your baby.

Definitely a difference in the sheen of the tail panel compared to the rear fender and lower valance. My 67 rear panel isn't glossy and looks like the picture above. And yes, it is a factory SS big block.

Yep, just a air blower fan. And really not that strong. Back when these cars were new they would only clear a small spot  around the center of the back glass and a little toward the right rear side of car. Still couldn't see anything. My coupe system is sitting on a shelf. But sorry, I have no help for your specific question.