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It's back on E-BAY, 301417126076, with a starting price of $1,000. Man,I really wanted this when it was for sale before,but it was soooo rusty! It's only 800+ VIN# off from my car. I was actually relieved when he outbid me by $1.00!!! Andy

35 years for me. Man,it sure doesn't seem that long! The previous owners wife ran it into the back of a pop truck. Bent a frame horn back at a 90 degree angle and ruined the front sheetmetal. They kept it for a while and then decided not to fix it. It was just a used car back then. I only wish that I'd got there before they sold the engine/trans. Everything on the lot that it was at was going to be crushed,so I guess that I at least saved it! It was several years later that I figured out what it was,but by that time it was too late to track down the parts that were sold. Here is a photo after I started working on it. I put it in storage for a long time while Life stuff took over. I'm now trying to gather stuff to restore it correctly.

A question for anybody who has had success getting info from a DMV,
Whay kind of information did they have? Anything pertaining to the build of the car? Maybe the shippers form,or order form?

The reason that I'm asking is I am trying to go this route to find the build info for a 67 that I have. On the first attempt,I got nowhere. (they did cash my check and say thanks for the payment,though ) I'll have to reword my request and make another attempt. I do know the selling dealer(from an old NCIB report),but they did not have any records back that far.
Thanks guys, Andrew

Here is a copy of a sheet that came with a set of NOS rear guards.

Neat! I sure would like to get some bright blue seat cover material to repair my front buckets with. Is any of it any good,and did you get it? What state is this located in?  Everything here up north is still frez'in cold,yet! Andy V

I'm no expert ,but I learn something new all the time. I always try to replicate what I see regardless of what everyone says. Here is a photo of an original paint 67 big block rear panel. I removed the taillamp for inspection and found that the area behind the taillamp ,that was not faded,to be what I would call semi-gloss. Notice it is about the same as the NOS inner fender panel to the left of the car. 60% gloss is what the paint books show for blackout,and that is what I will use to replicate what I have found on this car. The lower rocker panels are the same color. I will take more detailed photos before starting the restoration next fall. Many more details to iron out and parts to gather! Andy V

Martin, the date on the radiator that I will be replacing the tank on is coded with a "B".  However, it is from an automatic trans car and is coded "O N".  The left tank is coded correctly. I was told it is a firebird rad.

Thanks,Kurt. That's about what I was thinking. HBC offers a repop.(dated with a B)  Guess I should really look for a C or D. Anybody out there have an extra one?
I guess there may not be much info gathered on radiator dates,or I would have seen more replys to this posting. (I've asked on other forums,too) So... anybody with original rads care to share how their dates compare to their cars build? I'm interested in big blocks due to the more limited number,but others engines may be helpful to get some reference points from.  Thanks

Help! I've been gathering parts to restore my 1967 O4C big block car for years now.  My radiator was damaged and discarded due to an accident back in the '70's. I need the "OL" coded tank for the right side. Do I need a tank that is coded with a "D" (for April),or can I use one with a B,or C to still be historically correct? What has been seen on other original radiator cars? Thanks,anybody,Andy

Hi. Is there a small letter between the "O"and the "L"? I'm looking for one that has a "C" or a "D". Andy V

Here is a photo of my 67 conv jacking inst sticker that has been stored away since 1979. O4-C build.