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The carbs now are a pair of 650cfm's. Are the 4776's a tried and true application?
I don't know about the plenum set-up. Don't know anything about them.

I believe it actually was restored. And looks it from those pics.

Let me clarify my "mostly original" statement. It has been restored but not Day 2.

The owner was made aware that getting it even close to streetable in its current state is a long shot if not impossible.

This one is Marina Blue. Mostly original.

Purchased last March at Mecum Phoenix .
Here to try to get it to run with the cross ram/ incorrect carbs.
What pictures do you want?

67 Z28 124377N233788.
Wound up local to me and was wondering if anyone has any info on it.

Usually if the springs aren't clocked correctly they will rub where they pass through the frame.

Its probably body twist. I had a 74 Z28 that was driven into a ditch and it twisted the body. No panel damage or gap issues just the height issue as you state.

Just to be safe keep an eye on the pressure. If it drops any from where it is then a recheck is in order. Do you have the bearing clearances from the re-builder?

Thump the flange end of crankshaft on a concrete floor. It will have a distinct sound if its cracked. Your crank shop should know this.

Its probably the coil. If you test a stock dist. with points on a Sun machine the points will start to bounce at around 4500rpm.
This causes a weak waste spark ATDC and a weak coil cannot recover from this.
With a strong coil this waste spark has no effect on performance.
This can be clearly seen on the Sun Dist. scope.

Any ideas on how to safely remove the 3 vertical bars on the top of the shroud.
The NOS 619's have these bars the originals do not.
I'm told William may know how to do this.

Does anyone know if the transmission id tag is different from one gear ratio to the next?Because with the different gear ratios the speedo gears would be different. Need to find out what the id tag would be for a z/28 m20 with a BV410 rear. Does anyone have a z with this combo that still has there original id tag? Also do I need a speed reducer? thanks John

I had this combo and it would not use the reducer. It would the 797 tag with the natural colored or yellow 24 tooth 3860347 driven gear.

The reason the tag numbers are different for the solid lifter engines is the deeper rear axles. They required the small speedo DRIVE gear.

I believe The above tag numbers go for Z28 and L78.

I could have purchased the original L78 short block for my 70 Nova. I traced the car back a couple owners and it was a speed shop that had it.
Since they knew I had the car they put a premium price on it. Problem is they decked the numbers off and I couldn't justify the price tag without the numbers. Plus the top end was gone, Heads, intake, dist. and carb.
Only info I got out of it was the Cast date which was unusually early.
So I'm sure there are other orphan blocks that will never make it to the list due to machining.