Messages

This fell out from under my dash. Can anyone decode this?

The backing plates were super rusty. To R&R those, gotta pull the axles. if I'm pulling the axles, I always do seals. The bearings looked original so I did those, too.

Of course broke 2 rear end cover bolts removing the cover. Managed to weld a nut on the one at the 9 o'clock position but never could get the one out at the 12 o'clock position. I'll get it when I pull the rear some time.

So, it was a major pain but I got it done. Replaced or rebuilt the entire brake system including:

Front to rear lines
Rebuilt proportioning valve
rear backing plates (ouch)
rear axle bearings/seals
all flex lines
All springs & drum hardware
replaced rear drums with wrong finned ones. Don't know why; still have the smooth ones and I think they are still good.
new 309 repro master

Decided to replace the tank to pump metal fuel lines. Have to say that the Right stuff pre bent lines fit better than the Inline tube ones.
Bought new brake line clips but did not use them as they were not even close to the originals. Reused original hardware and clips.

Learned all about the 2-piece rotors in the front. Kept those.
Rebuilt what looks to be original calipers

About to put it back on the road. Thanks for all suggestions.

John Z told me that years ago and NCRS docs support it.

N626098 - NCRS build date 4/3/69
N626575 - NCRS build date 4/14/69

Just Curious.  N626575 is my 03E pace car.  Wondering if you guys got the NCRS data from when I posted it or if you had another source?  Now I understand why my car has an April engine/rear and a March trim tag.

'69 power disc/drum.

Looking to replace the brake lines from the master to prop valve on driver side frame rail and the prop valve to rear flex line.  Bought inline tube steel brake lines.  Please tell me this can be done with the car fully assembled.  Any tips?

Also is there anything I should do to the prop valve (clean it, paint it, etc.) while I am at it? 

This was all started by my decision to replace the rear flex hose. One look at the hard lines on the rear and I knew they would never survive the flex hose replacement so I am replacing those, and the master, too.

Any comments welcome

Thanks for the good info! Going to re-snorkel the one I have and restore it.

So as has been suggested, I can add a snorkel to this base for around $50 looking at ebay.  Should I repair this one, even though it is not the right base for an early April car or should I look for another correct base or repro? 

What would you do?

A few more pictures. Getting better at resizing.

Took some pics of my air cleaner. I see 4 snorkle spot welds. Ridged, 90 degree tube, and what looks like forming wrinkles as others have called them.  70 Chevelle?

I've done this more than several times, made "reproduction" Therm A/C cleaners for this application (L48 auto w/mandated ZL2 air cleaners like Pace Cars). You'll need a donor 2 or 4 bbl period air cleaner (use a 2 bbl if you don't want to sacrifice a 4 bbl), hopefully complete with the green 4bbl vacuum valve and the hose clips on the bottom of the air cleaner - you'll need these to make it cosmetically correct amd functional, too. I carefully remove the snorkel without damaging the flange, drill out the spot welds holding the clip, then spot weld the snorkel to the cleaner body after spot welding the clip in place (only way to spot weld the clip is to reach through the empty snorkel opening with the tongs and spot it twice to position it and keep it in place). Do it this way and, as William says, it's undetectable.

No, the base is not date coded (I have an NOS ZL2 cleaner in the box to base this on). Remember, early ZL2 cleaners had a flat bottom where the filter sits, a raised rib version was a second design and the first design to be reproduced. Flat bottom cans are in reproduction if you want to use one -

ZL2 manual or automatic air cleaners all used painted lids, not chrome -

Regards,
Steve

Very helpful.  My base has the ridge.  Any idea when the ridged base began? I have a early April engine and 4/14 production date for the car. Don't think mine is a repro as it has all the vacuum clips and fittings.  It may be from a later car or a maybe a chevelle.

Had the same situation many years ago. Removed a snorkel w/Thermactor from a 2bbl air cleaner, had it tack welded. Indetectable.

Exactly the answer I was looking for!

So before I re-snorkel, the air cleaner base is not date coded, right? 
Is the Thermactor Air valve itself date coded?

Thanks,

Roger

I have a '69 L48 with what looks to be an original ZL2 air cleaner.  The problem is the snorkel is missing.  Are these date coded?  Could not find any data on this.  My engine is a T0409HB 300hp auto. 

Should it have the flapper gizmo on the snorkel or just be smooth?
Does anyone sell the snorkel by itself?

Thanks.

I have a '69 L48 with cowl induction.  I was missing the screw for the coil bracket so I ordered one from a parts house ($7 for a screw).  When I got it it was too short.

I have a 270 coil and "a" leaning bracket.  Is there more than one leaning bracket?  is there more than 1 screw? i.e., doe thes leaning bracket get a different screw?

I bet your using an aftermarket coil that may be a little too large?  Seen that many times.  If you had to spread the bracket apart to make the coil fit - then probably larger than original Delco.

It's a "270" coil I got off Ebay.  I can measure it.  Anyone know the standard diameter of the "270" coil? anyone know the length of the original leaning bracket screw also?

I have a '69 L48 with cowl induction.  I was missing the screw for the coil bracket so I ordered one from a parts house ($7 for a screw).  When I got it it was too short.

I have a 270 coil and "a" leaning bracket.  Is there more than one leaning bracket?  is there more than 1 screw? i.e., doe thes leaning bracket get a different screw?

All,

I have a '69 Z11 with engine build date of T0409.
Would an early April, say April 2 alternator be ok for this engine? Too late?
Same with an early April water pump?

So I found a D89 (April 8, 1969), 1 day before the engine build date.  Is that acceptable?  Could they cast, machine, assemble and paint a water pump on the 8th and install it on my engine on the 9th? Did that happen?

I think it would be reasonable if the foundry was close to the engine plant, which I assume it was. The assembly would be simple and not take long to build. The water pump would be shipped to the engine plant and installed and painted with the engine assembly.

Not sure where the plant was. Were these water pumps manufactured at Tonawanda?