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I think, for the most part, the accepted production number(s) for the iron block 1969 COPO Camaro (9561) is 1015 and for the aluminum block version (9560) is 69.
So my question is ... how many of the 1969 COPO Camaros where built with the Turbo-Hydramatic 400 automatic transmission? I know the overwhelming majority of them were built with four speeds. As an owner of one, I am curious as to how many of them came out of the factory as automatic transmission cars.
Thanks.

A couple quickie checks. Does have a BE rear, what is the position of the heater hoses coming out of the firewall?
A few things to check if it did come out of the factory with a big block:
1. heater box location
2. 12 bolt
3. prop valve under seat
4. single fuel line
5. front discs

Good luck.

Something is wrong with the link. I get a 404 - not found message.

Mike

Doh! On man ... That is embarrassing!  Sorry about that.  Here is the working link:

Desktop Link -
http://digital.olivesoftware.com/Olive/ODE/carsandparts/

Mobile Link -
http://tablet.olivesoftware.com/Olive/Tablet/CarsandParts/

Hope this work better.

Just figured I'd share this with you all here since the site and the people I have met through this site really played a large part in identifying and my work on the car. The knowledge here is invaluable and there was no way I would have been able to muddle through this without your help! Below is a link to a recent magazine article that came our about my Camaro. Starts on page 20:

http://digital.olivesoftware.com/Oli.../carsandparts/

Enjoy and thanks again for the continued support!

For whatever it's worth ... the dentet was really the only thing that was different on the horse shoe/staple shifters between the powerglides and the Th350 and Th400's - (2 speed auto tranny vs. a 3 speeds one).

Do you have an A.I.M.?   I'm pretty sure the measurements are in there.  Also, some of the repop companies have templates.  Try Classic industries and/or Rick's.

NPD and Ground Up have the templates.  I got a set from one of them for me '69.  The set runs about 20 bucks and includes templetes for ALL the emblems/badging.

I have used both M & H Harness (http://www.wiringharness.com/) and American Auto Wire (http://www.americanautowire.com/) in the past and would recommend either company in a heart beat.  Both have been very good, great customer support and the harnesses a near perfect match.

Don't know of anyone that restores old wiring - But either one of these companies can help you with new.

On a factory spoiler car, the bottom straight edge of the emblem is 1-1/4" forward of the front edge of the spoiler, and the right edge of the "O" in Camaro is 4" from the edge of the lid.

Thanks for the update John.

To my knowledge, all Camaro  models had the script on the trunk. On spoiler equipped cars it was moved up from the normal placement.

Does someone have a template of sorts of where the emblem would go on a spolier car?   I have a spolier car which the trunk may have been replaced in the early 70's as the car may have been hit in the rear.  There is NO emblem on the truck lid at this time and if there should be, I would like to install it ... and in the correct location.

Oh the sun is out, the sky is blue, the birds are singing and it's such a beautiful day!  "Are my brakes working", you ask?  Why yes ... Yes the are!  Thanks for asking.  My car now stops like a car should and I have front disc brakes engaging as designed.  Life is good again!

For those intrested in the fix here ...  I had a pair of re-pro calipers on the front as a temp thing as I wanted to send my original Delco calipers put to be re-built.  In total frustration ... This morning I swapped out the new calipers and put my old originals (new pads) on the car ... Bleed the front brakes and BAMM ... I now have working front disc brakes that stop on a dime! 

Kevin - I just may be ready for that cruise over to your house!!

Thanks all for the help. It's always much appreciated.

OK - Quick update. I was getting brain freeze and second guessing myself, but now after thinking about this I know the calipers are on correctly.  There really is only only one way for them to go one without force fitting something.  For the recored, the bleeders are on the top of the calipers and point torwards the rear of the car on both sides.

Hmm, that could mean the dist block has shifted internally.

But the brake light goes off when the car is started ...   Doesn't the distribution block pretty much just pass fluid?  I didn't think there were really any moving parts in there.

With the parking brake not engaged, ignition switch in the "on" position, is the dash brake light "on" or "off"?

Hmmm ... Funny you should ask.  The Brake light is "on".

Guys ... Yeah I know ... My bad on the bleeders.  What I meant to say is the top.  I'll double check that, but I'm sure they are installed correctly. I have banging my head on this problem for so long now, that I'm getting dizzy.

Hey guys thanks for the help and please don't be shy with any additional ideas.  The Calipers are on correctly.  The Bleeders are on the bottom.  If the left one was on the right side adn visa versa - then the bleeder screws would on the top of the calipers and that would be an air issue.