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I just looked at a julian calender for '66 and now this has me really confused. If my engine is assembled in Flint on Nov 26 a Saturday and the following week would be 11E that only gives 7 days to get the engine to LOS and in the car. It's a 327 2bbl. nothing special. Seems like just in time inventory control. My alternator is Nov 26 which really seems crazy because I thought they were made in Michigan. My scheduling code is W630 vinL123095, convert with custom int.

I was just reading this thread when something jumped out at me regarding the 11B build week. Either I forgot this or never knew it since I haven't fooled around researching our '67 in a couple of years. I have an 11B LOS car and I was always wondering how the the engine could have been assembled Nov 26, cast Nov 15, the intake Nov 25, alt. Nov 26 and so on. I think I must have dissmissed it since I have the protect-o-plate and everything matches. It all makes sense now that they stopped changing the week after B for the rest of the month. Talk about parts being pushed aside my 2.73 rear end was built July 1 as noted on the POP.

My 06C car also has a 202. Since I bought the car about 15 years ago it always had a coors beer can wrapped around the coil and I never removed it until I had Jerry come out and look at the car. It was kinda cool to find the 202 under there.
Denny

WOW you don't realize how much your going to miss something till it's not there. Thanks for getting things back up. My wife also thanks you, she said I was getting grumpy.
Denny

We have the same '67 combo 327, 2bbl, powerglide and smog with the original tag. I looked at the link regarding the carb tags and it's noted the tags were rectangular but mine is square. Were there two types? Was the gold color for the above combo? Sorry for the blurry photo, apparently phones are for talking.

Did they stop using the rivets due to cost, safety or other? How do they rate for strength? These may well have been purchased in '82 since the previous owner purchased the car around 1981 and might have wanted to put rallys back on the car if they were gone.

Can anyone ID these rims? They came on my 68 when I bought it 15 years ago. When I check Chevy by the numbers the closest I can come is a '69 "B" wagon wheel but these wheels are RIVETED not welded. In fact very few wheels in the charts are riveted. What was the difference between welded and riveted? Thanks

Is the frame rail boxed or is that the underside of the body?

I had my 68 up on the lift looking inside the frame rail and noticed a green factory body marking. This was on the left side only at the front near the leaf spring attachment area. Has anyone seen this before and what does it mean?

I did get it figured out enough to post some pics in the originality section AM/FM 8 track post. I did delete the pics in photobucket but I still want to figure out how to link a whole group of photos from photobucket with higher resolution and more details in case anybody wants to see it. Thanks

I forgot to mention the leveler which I also use but it seems while straddling the engine bay with your butt on the cowl blanket using a foot on the top of the trans sending into the tunnel helps.  I have also done it solo but I feel there is too much to watch as it's going in and it's always nice to celebrate with your compadre once your done. My goal is to not scratch any paint on either the engine or engine bay.
There is at least one wire clip that needs to bolt to the bell housing, back up light maybe, I missed it and it caused me grief. I don't remember if I was able to bolt the exhaust manifolds to the engine or the head pipes and tie them out of the way. It seems when on the engine one  side hit something maybe the steering box. It's kinda tight on the distributor also, I think I pulled mine so I wouldn't damage it. Water pump stays on without fan attached. I also throw the front tires under the door rockers in case the car comes off the stands while you are under it they may leave enough room to escape.  I'm sure I've forgotten something so hopefully someone else will comment.

I've enlisted the help of my non gearhead wife to do it. She works the hoist while I stand in the engine bay facing her. On the hoist I made an arrow with stop written on one end and down on the other end on the cylinder above the valve handle so there is no thinking involved.  We do practice runs so she gets the feel for the drop speed versus valve opening position. Just to add insurance I use moving blankets to cover all painted surfaces and a piece of thick cardboard taped to the trans tunnel. The hood is off, the radiator is out, the front wheels are off and the car is jacked up and on stands  just enough to let me slide under quickly.
Getting the angle of the dangle upon dropping is the most critical. As the hoist is moving foward, the engiine is dropping and foot pressure on the trans to send in into the tunnel needs to happen in a smooth motion. I put a flat cart at a position where when the trans contacts it it helps roll the trans rearward so you can stay up top guiding everything in.
Once in you can use a floor jack to slip under the trans, this might also determine how high the car needs to be raised so you can pump the handle. I put a piece of pipe insulation foam around the jack handle so as not to ding any paint. You can get this from any hardware store for a couple of bucks it comes in approx 4' lengths. 
Fun times with the wife.

Jimbo, I don't know anything about the dye versus replacement since mine was in great shape. The frame was my problem, slight rust and worn paint  I decided to leave the top on and tape everything off to sand and repaint the frame in place. I taped some of the masking paper to the rear plastic window with blue tape, 2 or 3 pieces 2 inches long. Upon unveiling I noticed the tape had reacted with the plastic and left permanent imprints. They are hard to see but I know they are there. 

I finally was able to figure out how to post a picture. Here is a picture of a console pad with the 8 track metal cover attached. You can see the white under the red dye. Does anyone know if these can be redyed? Were the consoles all black and then sprayed the interior color? My interior is black and my console lid, 8 track and pad were long gone when I bought the car. I recently learned what the hole on the inside of my console was for, 8 track wires, and figured out why I had 5 speaks, 8 track with AM radio. When I pulled the console I found the cut 8 track ground wire still attached to the bolt and the original cut rear speaker wires hanging in the trunk. The original speaker kick panels are still in place but no speakers. I have alot more detailed pictures but I have to figure out how to link them through Photobucket.

Testing 3 pics using resize