Messages

I think your problem is the caliper installation.  The bleeder screws need to be on top, otherwise the air will be trapped.  I have and original 69 BB and the bleeders have always been on top.  Check out this web site.  http://www.wikihow.com/Install-Brake-Calipers-on-Car-Wheels

Have you checked or replaced your radiator cap?  Not completely filling the radiator is new to me, I have always done that.  I also use an overflow bottle to insure that any movement of fluid with the radiator will be done within coolant and will not be moving air into the system.  It was explained to me one time that any air present in the cooling system will contribute to corrosion.

This may not be your problem but it wouldn't hurt to check all of the ground conections and the + cable to the starter, making sure they all have good metal to metal contact.  I have also had heat soak problems with starters which live under headers.  I had good luck with the flexable shields which wrap around the entire starter.  Found mine at a Checker Auto Parts for about $30.

Wallace

I had a similar problem on the flexplate behind my 396.  I had several gear teeth that were dinged up a little bit, and the bendix would find them often with embarrassing grinding.  I removed the dust shield underneath and rotated the flexplate (engine) and when I found a chewed up tooth I dressed it up with a flat file.  If your damage is not too severe this might work.  My bendix had no damage to the gear.

Wallace

How deep did they get into the differential?  If the riing gear and pinion were not properly set up (e.g. improper torque setting on the pinion bearings), it will create a whine that will change in pitch as the rpm of the rear end changes.

Wallace

Steve,

Power valves don't like backfires.  If it ruptured it will need to be replaced.  It is found on the metering block between the front bowl and the body of the carb.  Check the valve to be sure that air will not pass through the diaphram.

Wallace

You wouldn't think a new motor would have such a problem, but anything is possible.  I once had a similar problem and it turned out to be the dirve gear for the distributor.  Might be a place for you to check.

Wallace

I probably don't put more than 1500 miles a year on my 69, but I change the oil and lube the car every four months (if it needs it or not).  I figure it is cheap insurance, especially if I have driven through water or dusty roads.  Low mileage cars tend to contaminate the oil more with water contamination, because the are often not driven long enough to dirve off the contaminants.  I also don't trust chasis lubricants over time because I have seen the oil separate in the cartridges, and I assume that happens in the suspension fittings also.

Wallace

You might check your insurance coverage.  If there is damage to your glass wihch impairs vision it should be covered.  At any rate, there is nothing like new glass to see through, and it will give your car a nice face lift.

Wallace

I run multileaf springs on my 69 SS 396. and they work well.  I would check your shocks, and if they are "soft" replace them.  I have had good luck with the shocks made by Edelbrock, especially on the heavy front end of my car.  At one point I considered installing traction bars on my car, but the spring shop that I go to advised me against it saying that they put adverse stress on the springs.  I don't know if that is true, but I left them off and  I have no wheel hop and my car sets level.

Wallace

Replacement of old hoses is always a good idea.  I would also check the surface of the disk pads for galze or oil contamination, and if present a light sanding will produce a better surface.


Wallace

Try classicindustries.com.  If all else fails, you can at least replace the entire pump.


Wallace

Don,

I had a similar problem a while back.  My engine would die when the vehicle was in motion, sometimes on a rough road.  It was brief and very random.  I blamed every component possible until I discovered that the ignition wire that led to the + side of the coil had a factory connection that had lost it's insulation, which was the wrapped tape.  The connection was right next to the firewall and would occasionally touch and short the ignition.  It was an easy fix but tough to find because I couldn't see the exposed joint.  Not sure if that is your problem but worth looking at.  Anymore I have looked for solutions by first checking electrical connections, especially grounds.  Good luck.

Wallace

I recently went through a '70 manual steering gear and was able to locate both seals, but the flat gasket that goes under the adjusting plate (with three bolts) was unavailable.  I did a clean prep and used permatex instead of the gasket.  I packed the bearings, worm gear and the entire case with Mystik JT-6 grease.  It took most of the 1 pound can, and so far no leaks.

Wallace

Thanks for the photo Mike.  That is the identical valve that I have except I do not have the washer or the cup seal which go on the back end.  The kit I ordered from Heartbeat City was for the other style metering valve, so I sent it back.  They told me that they didn't have the kit for my style valve...bummer.  I guess I will keep looking for one.


Wallace