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This is what we just found out last year single 3/8" Stainless & Steel lines BOTH have the same defect.

It was Impossible to re-bend the SS version, so we unbent to steel one to rebend it to make it fit the pass subframe clip and roll over point

1967 Camaro

I know you asked about 69.

We did NOT have to separate the subframe, it is a Pain and we were working over a in ground Deep Pit so we could attack it from underneath. So Often you need the vehicle Elevated to install lines.

Game On!
Start updating Post Guys.

Thanks.

*

Thanks for your CRG efforts to get the forum up and running again. 2025 Fall Donation Sent!
Jim W

Topped with a NKR Repop 68 Cowl Plenum air cleaner (*Orig a Std Open Element)
The product Fits Nice and complete the Look w/ KH37 Repop Headers.

Clean Hood Off Views.

& the Factory Tune up sticker to remain. No way would I scrape if off and replace since it is The 302 Tune up decal-Sticker applied by the factory.

Come to Think about it.

I thought the Arm might have a couple "Stake" markings?

^^ Correct.
Exactly what I did on mine.
My Body man warned me about contour issues with various repop metal.

^^YUP!

Fisher Body
Exterior Moldings
17-28/29/30

Key 15
"Front Door Window Belt Reveal"
Key 16
"Quarter Window Belt Reveal"

Ref: Body by Fisher
1968 Service Manual

Another "PROBLEM" with these is:
Not sure in your case;

If you replace the pivot hardware you MUST be careful to use a VERY short Screw in the Pass Side Pivot as the arm hinge can hit the screw-thread as it extended thread protrusion will interfere with the "Motion"

Yes, You Should Assure your motor is in the "Park" position before installing.

I just went thru a sour experience with Metro.
I was Sold on using "Gold" line premium line. So I purchased a Set via a local third tier vendor, (i.e. Mfr, then Supplier, then dealer)

My Pass Door forward end Split after seven opening and closing cycles.

I reached out to the Manufactures Business office (Metro - Soft Seal)-for applying for the Fancy Logo Customer satisfaction warranty;

NO GO!

Reasons Metro warranty did not apply: 1) Greater than 90 date of purchase, 2) The "Supplier" will be your Point of application. 3) Proof of Purchase req.

I failed to meet these requirements:

1) I bought them four years ago and stored them in my bins in the garage as I built the Car.
2) I bought them via a third tier Brick and mortar Local Camaro business, Not His supplier or direct from Metro.
3) I had a hand written numbered receipt hand written "Seals" w/o part number, brand etc.

You Bet I bought ANOTHER set of Metro to get the Car done.

I have used Steele Rubber in 1986 & 1989.

Just my take, not a Bash just awareness share.

I think I have a Copy (From .net) of a 68/69 Bench Test Line diagram (*Elect)

I lifted these from the net.

 :oIt Should Work, it has in the Past, Even then you might "Use" careful application of Leverage

^^ Great Job Guys!

We used a Pair of Dial indicators on my Comp Roller Tip Mag SBC Rockers.
For every Hundred thou Lifter Lift we got 140 thou at the Tip of the Valve; So our Rockers REAL world ratio was 1.40
150/140= .9333333
93% of 030 = .028"

We set these rockers at 0.028" Cold.

I think this was the process JOHNZ called Factoring based on real lift results.


* My Biggest Lesson I could Convey would be do not Be fooled by the Mech Lifter Adjustment GM Service manual Photo (For example 1968 Service manual Page # 6-28 Fig. 4V - Valve Adjustment (Mechanical)  REMOVE the Socket from the Rocker Nut when checking Lash with the Feeler gage. The Socket wall can contact the Rocker Arm & cause Binding and a FALSE sense of Drag & inaccurate Lash!

The Lens's are held with a Factory Dense Foam w/ wax impregnation gasket, that is how it has kept water out for 46 years.
Take a Hair Dryer and gently "HEAT" the back side of the housing to soften the adhesive like "Grip" of the gasket to steel housing.
I like to press with hands and fingers around the flanged perimeter of the lens in a rocking like motion to slowly separate the plastic from the steel housing.

The gasket can & should be re-used esp if a car is used in foul weather, the gasket can be cleaned up a bit by scraping off the road dirt, but there is no way to really clean it up like new. I have found the aftermarket Foam gaskets to be inferior to the GM factory item, but the old ones will look scuzzy.

More Assy Install.