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Game On!
Start updating Post Guys.

Thanks.

*

Thanks for your CRG efforts to get the forum up and running again. 2025 Fall Donation Sent!
Jim W

Topped with a NKR Repop 68 Cowl Plenum air cleaner (*Orig a Std Open Element)
The product Fits Nice and complete the Look w/ KH37 Repop Headers.

Clean Hood Off Views.

& the Factory Tune up sticker to remain. No way would I scrape if off and replace since it is The 302 Tune up decal-Sticker applied by the factory.

Come to Think about it.

I thought the Arm might have a couple "Stake" markings?

^^ Correct.
Exactly what I did on mine.
My Body man warned me about contour issues with various repop metal.

^^YUP!

Fisher Body
Exterior Moldings
17-28/29/30

Key 15
"Front Door Window Belt Reveal"
Key 16
"Quarter Window Belt Reveal"

Ref: Body by Fisher
1968 Service Manual

Another "PROBLEM" with these is:
Not sure in your case;

If you replace the pivot hardware you MUST be careful to use a VERY short Screw in the Pass Side Pivot as the arm hinge can hit the screw-thread as it extended thread protrusion will interfere with the "Motion"

Yes, You Should Assure your motor is in the "Park" position before installing.

I just went thru a sour experience with Metro.
I was Sold on using "Gold" line premium line. So I purchased a Set via a local third tier vendor, (i.e. Mfr, then Supplier, then dealer)

My Pass Door forward end Split after seven opening and closing cycles.

I reached out to the Manufactures Business office (Metro - Soft Seal)-for applying for the Fancy Logo Customer satisfaction warranty;

NO GO!

Reasons Metro warranty did not apply: 1) Greater than 90 date of purchase, 2) The "Supplier" will be your Point of application. 3) Proof of Purchase req.

I failed to meet these requirements:

1) I bought them four years ago and stored them in my bins in the garage as I built the Car.
2) I bought them via a third tier Brick and mortar Local Camaro business, Not His supplier or direct from Metro.
3) I had a hand written numbered receipt hand written "Seals" w/o part number, brand etc.

You Bet I bought ANOTHER set of Metro to get the Car done.

I have used Steele Rubber in 1986 & 1989.

Just my take, not a Bash just awareness share.

I think I have a Copy (From .net) of a 68/69 Bench Test Line diagram (*Elect)

I lifted these from the net.

 :oIt Should Work, it has in the Past, Even then you might "Use" careful application of Leverage

^^ Great Job Guys!

We used a Pair of Dial indicators on my Comp Roller Tip Mag SBC Rockers.
For every Hundred thou Lifter Lift we got 140 thou at the Tip of the Valve; So our Rockers REAL world ratio was 1.40
150/140= .9333333
93% of 030 = .028"

We set these rockers at 0.028" Cold.

I think this was the process JOHNZ called Factoring based on real lift results.


* My Biggest Lesson I could Convey would be do not Be fooled by the Mech Lifter Adjustment GM Service manual Photo (For example 1968 Service manual Page # 6-28 Fig. 4V - Valve Adjustment (Mechanical)  REMOVE the Socket from the Rocker Nut when checking Lash with the Feeler gage. The Socket wall can contact the Rocker Arm & cause Binding and a FALSE sense of Drag & inaccurate Lash!

The Lens's are held with a Factory Dense Foam w/ wax impregnation gasket, that is how it has kept water out for 46 years.
Take a Hair Dryer and gently "HEAT" the back side of the housing to soften the adhesive like "Grip" of the gasket to steel housing.
I like to press with hands and fingers around the flanged perimeter of the lens in a rocking like motion to slowly separate the plastic from the steel housing.

The gasket can & should be re-used esp if a car is used in foul weather, the gasket can be cleaned up a bit by scraping off the road dirt, but there is no way to really clean it up like new. I have found the aftermarket Foam gaskets to be inferior to the GM factory item, but the old ones will look scuzzy.

More Assy Install.

More Progress Engine Installation.
The Headers Fit like a Glove.