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are you sure its not 3846429  ??

Once the spoiler became standard equipment on Z28's in April of 1969, did they drop the D80 designation on the trim tag?  I'm looking at an 04C Burgundy Z with spoilers - no D80 on the trim tag, just X33.

My 06A RSZ28 has X33D80 on trim tag, owned the car since 1974 GM Canada docs

I'm a bid advocate of it, as I HATE doing things twice. You'd be surprised how far off a pressure plate can be.

Tim

Totally agree, I had a well known brand name pressure plate that was off 23 grams, they all seem to be off a bit but not usually that much. We all ways zero balance the flywheel, then bolt on pressure plate and make any changes just to the pressure plate, that way everything is zero neutral balance.

V1122KM  stamp shows up in The Lime Book as 67 327/275 HP TH/ 4 bbl/ AIR out of full size passenger car.

The picture of the lower flywheel appears to have 4 bigger holes in the back area, which is not stock GM balance IMO. Like mentioned the motor may have been balanced with the flywheel, so you could have a engine shop check the balance on both flywheels to see if they are close, but i doubt it.  I have seen shops do that instead of adding heavy metal to crank counterweights.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/284323309803?hash=item4232fd68eb:g:OPYAAOSwKPFgvVbY

The link i previously posted is for the shorter rear bowl screws on 4160 carbs. This link is for the longer 2.5 bowl screws.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/284388802764?hash=item4236e4c0cc:g:5f0AAOSwYR5hAsC5

My 06A RSZ28 code 72 has no blackout on headlight doors.

Check the rear shifter stop adjustment bolt (which is for 1st & 3rd ) and make sure it is not screwed in too far when in the 1st gear position, ( check in both positions )  and also make sure shift handle and 1-2 rod is not contacting anywhere . 

Usually rebuild kits do not include the outer sliders. Weird it's jumping out of 1st because usually the 1-2 slider does not wear much on the 1st gear side. Do you have a stock shifter or a Hurst ? May just be a shifter adjustment

You should pull the valve covers and WITHOUT adjusting them run the lash to see what it has rite now for lash. The stock cam is .030/.030, if its anywhere close you can make a decision and relash it at that. You could also use a dial indicator and measure the lobe lift at the pushrod, but you would have to remove 1 rocker, then multiply that by the rocker ratio to give you theoretical lift, Z cam is .485. You could also put the dial indicator on the retainer and that will tell you lift at valve.

Short of putting a degree wheel on it its hard to measure duration.

First picture of the primary metering block has a 65, second picture of secondary block has a 85.
You read the numbers on the right hand side, the left side with the aplha numerical digit with a number underneath it is not a identifying number. You can also tell the higher value power valve by the effort it takes to push the other side of the valve although the difference between 65 & 85 is negligible.

GM/AC Delco additive #992694

Weird, The photo of the bolt is all distorted unless you open it in a new tab, I posted these from work computor and they were fine, anyone else have problems?

The 6,000 mile 1970 LTI engine I have had for 25 years has black non flanged bolts, "M" head, and the threads are black, 1st time a intake bolt has ever been removed was today. You can see remnants of brushed on aluminum paint on bolt sides. The stand bolts appear natural.
The lift brkts are natural BTW. Pretty sure my own 69 Z has black bolts to. Hope this helps.

Mike.