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Intend on attending both, Nationals on Friday and Carlisle on Sat. and maybe Sun.  I've never been to Nats, is everything there on Fri.?  It's been several years since we were at GM Carlisle but we're looking forward to it.

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12 bolt BE 4:10
L72  M21
NOR 03E

Thanks John, I hadn't seen that, very interesting.

I'm curious if in '69 the body colored wheels were painted in lacquer like the cars or if they were painted in enamel.  During the assembly process were groups of wheels painted and then just picked when the tires were mounted or were they shot at same time as the sheet metal?

John,  I've always used GL-4 rated 80/90 lube as I understood the newer GL-5 rated lubes now more commonly sold would damage the synchros over time.  What's your opinion on this?

John, do you change the oil again in the spring before driving?

My 03E '69 is 33 69.

Make sure you use GL-4 rated gear lube rather than GL-5 as the GL-5 causes corrosion on the synchros.

John, At what point during assembly was the sound deadner applied?  What underbody components, if any, were installed prior to applying sound deadner.  When was the front applied?  Does anyone have any opinions on what's the best product tp duplicate the sound deadner?

thanks

My friend was redoing brakes on a C3 Corvette and found when rebuilding calipers with O ring pistons yhat one caliper had smaller piston bores.  Corvette supplier told him they were probably from a Camaro with rear disc brakes because of bore.  Casting #'s are 5473807 and 5473806 on split caliper.  Also has a 2 and 6 on caliper.  Anybody know what this fits or if it is Camaro?

 I have a problem with my '69 front calipers. First I had problem with car pulling to right so I changed the brake hoses, (few miles but 12 yrs old with silicone fluid) still pulled a bit but after dragging brakes for about 1/2 mi it cleared up and was fine however had a leak between caliper and brake hose fitting. I cannot get the leak stopped. I checked caliper for cracks, none, and hose appears OK. Seating surface on caliper looks OK but didn't get good crush marks on copper washer but it was correctly torqued then slightly over torqued and still leaked. New washers were about .003 thinner. This leak was static. I removed caliper inspected everything again and bench tested with air but still get leak. I'm ready to pull my hair out. Anyway, I'm just about ready to replace the calipers although I hate to give up these as I'm 99% sure they're original and had them resleeved with stainless by Stainless Steel Brakes 12 or so years ago. I looked at the catalogs and I see "technically correct" so I assume same caliper used for other years. Anyone know what is correct casting #'s for '69 and how many years they were used? One catalog lists cars made before and after 11/69. I can't find any info on numbers anywhere...books or on the net. Anybody know what we need to look for? Any rebuilt calipers better than others? What is the correct finish on 'em...black paint or natural? What are the restorers using? Thanks

One thing I did which I feel is important....crossmembers on 16 inch centers rather than the the more common 24 inch centers. It makes the floor much more solid.  I went with a winch instead of the roadside door because it's hard to get the door low enough to accomodate low cars.  When I do it again one thing I don't have but will are 16 inch tires as the quality available in 15 inch sucks...no 10 ply.  Mine is a 22' and I've been satisfied.  If you just want to haul show cars then extra length is extra weight and extra space needed to store.  If you race or want to haul additional stuff like a golf cart then go bigger but you can get by with a 20'.  It really depends on your tow vehicle too.  3/4 ton and up are much better with big block or diesel and you can tow more comfortably. One piece roof that's not steel is mandatory and vents are just another place to leak.  It's like most other things, buy the best you can afford.

John, Was it possible to delete the D96 pinstripes on a '69 Style Trim car?

I've got a problem with my '69 brakes pulling to the passenger side. I thought it was the left caliper piston sticking but when I pulled the caliper and compressed,the piston then stepped on the brake pedal to push it out. Worked it in and out a few times this way and put back together but the car still pulls to the right when brakes are applied. Rotor rotates easier on left side than on the right after brakes are applied and released. Could left caliper be bad? The car is a trailer queen and gets driven very little. All parts were brand new when restored 10 years ago. Calipers were rebuilt and sleeved with stainless and have always used silicone fluid. Thanks