Messages

All,

Thanks for this info. Very helpfui!

William, what was the purpose of the phosphating before priming? Is this for paint bonding or rust protection or both?

Chick, Nice to hear from you! I appreciate the tip to do a light overspray through the windows, then block off for spraying the front.

Restoring my original YH wheels. Looks like the wheel was dipped in semigloss black, then the front of the wheel was painted with the Argent silver, hence the over spray often seen on the back side of the wheel. Can anyone confirm this?

PROBLEM SOLVED! I removed the clutch pedal stop and am now able to adjust the clutch to get the range of motion required. I actually drove the car in the neighborhood for the first time this morning.

I found the original stop and it was indeed much thinner than the new replacement stop. It looks like someone had cut the original stop.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. A special shout out to olddragracer for the ultimate fix. Now on to other adjustments and fine tuning...

Well, just got the "correct" cross bar. It's identical to mine. Therefore, not the problem. I like oldragracer's suggestion and will try that next. Thanks!

All, thanks for the ideas. Per recommendations above, with the help of a friend I was able to measure the movement of the adjustment rod end of the clutch fork from the pedal  rest position to the fully depressed position. The end of the fork moved 1 inch. I used the front edge of the bell housing as the reference point. I have the luxury of having a reference car, which measured 1-3/8 inches for the same test. Anyway, I pulled the cross bar (pain in the butt) and compared it to the original from the car (which I do not think is the original one from the factory). They were indeed different, although subtly. The angle between the two arms was different and the adjustment rod arm was longer. However, the distance from the round part to the holes in both arms seemed almost identical. I installed the old bar and still have the same problem.

I also have a repro spring and it is weak, but I am careful to pull the pedal up with my foot before drawing any conclusions.

Next step is to order a new cross bar. I just ordered part # TRN-1002 from Heartbeat City. This should be the replacement for GM part number 3899013 (Assembly Manual UPC 7, C3, part 1).

Again, thanks for the suggestions. They confirm I am on the right track. Seems like the only real way to change the range of motion of the clutch fork is to change the radius of one of the cross bar arms on the cross bar. Specially, the rod hole needs to be closer to the round part. Sound right?

One other fact: when I disassembled the car for the frame off restoration, it had a scatter shield. However, the clutch fork was identical to the GM part.

Looking to see if anyone else has seen this problem and has suggestions. This is a full restoration of a 1969 Camaro Z/28. Engine rebuild (DZ), shifter rebuild (Hurst Competition Plus). New clutch, pressure plate, GM clutch fork (GM part number 3892632), throwout bearing. Verified the following are all correct: clutch fork pivot ball (short one), adjusting rod, bell crank, clutch pedal, upper clutch push rod.

The problem is that there is not enough travel in the clutch pedal. There should be play at the top of the clutch pedal travel (foot off the pedal to engagement of the throwout bearing) and play at the bottom of travel (pedal pushed to the floor) before the clutch engages. The best I can get is no play at the top of travel (i.e., throwout bearing is against pressure plate fingers) and the clutch begins to engage at the floor. Seems like pressing the clutch pedal does not pivot the clutch fork enough. Any ideas?

As a follow up from my original post above, I damaged the panels so bad trying to get them to fit, I ordered new ones. Although they were also made by PUI, the new ones were much better made and fit better. Go figure. I did notice that the aluminum trim rail on both reproductions are shorter than the rails on the originals by a couple of inches. They don't look as nice. I think you would only notice if you have an original interior car next to one with reproduction panels.

Of course! Makes sense. That means my main problem is now the back edge of the panels. they are jammed into the back point of the window opening and the seat. Thanks very much for your help.

I am installing reproduction (PUI) interior panels (standard interior). The panels do not match the profile of the body at the door jamb. In the first attached picture, I show the profile of  the body at the door jamb. In the second photo, I show the panel installed. Note the gap between the panel and the body. This gap is too large and doesn't allow installation of the ribbing. In  the 3rd attached image, I show an original interior. The Panel contour matches the profile of the body.

Anyone else encountered this problem ? What was the solution? Does someone make better reproduction panels?

The best source (in my opinion) is Gardner Exhaust Systems (http://www.gardnerexhaust.com/). They are factory correct and even sell all the correct hangers.

Did you ever figure out the problem? I am experiencing a similar problem. The actuator bottoms out before the door hits the rubber stop, leaving a gap on the outer edge of the opening in the grille. Any advice would be appreciated.

Perfect! Thanks. I'll plug, as I have a Muncie.

This one inch penetration is located at the bottom left corner of the fuse box connector (looking at firewall from the engine compartment). Picture is attached. To the left of this hole is the clutch rod boot. Anyone know the purpose of this hole?

Mike, Don't know. Purchased steering box from Heartbeat. I would assume they adjusted appropriately. How can one tell?

sixt9x33rs, When I torqued to 120 ft. lbs. it came up a little more, now about 1/2 inch. Steering box came from Heartbeat. I presume they rebuild them.

Thanks!

John

I just attached the pitman arm to my rebuilt steering box. The spacing between the pitman arm and the steering box after tightening is about 5/8 inch. On my other Z, the pitman arm spacing is much less. Is this OK or do I need to correct this? See picture below.